Just trying to figure out how a laymen can try and figure out what is best. There has to be a best or better right? There has to be oils that barely achieve approvals and those that easily achieve or exceed them. Or in the Grand engine scheme does it even really make a difference?Are you trying to find someone significant here that will say Group II+ / III Supertech is equal to oils carrying Gp 4s / Gp 5s, Esters / PAOs / GTL .....etc?
You Trickster You!!!!!
Moly or Boron preference?
- Thread starter ZZman
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Partly. Trying to figure out a stout oil that maximizes protection/ anti wear.
There is no absolute “best”.
There are good choices, once the application is clarified.
But the determination of what choices are good, requires understanding of the operating environment, the application, how it is used.
Does cost matter to you? How will the car be driven? What’s the oil change interval?
Cost for the Hyundai not an issue, car short tripped and rarely driven, 5,000 oci.
There is you answer. Shop oils with your wallet.
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I don't think the specs thing is all that fool proof. Just the other day someone posted a video of Shell(?)'s oil which had tons of foam but passed a given test for keeping foam minimal, and yet was clearly inferior to HPL's oil which had 0 mm's of foam. I don't remember all the details but it was no more than a month ago or so.
Even with specs and certifications it appears there is room for much higher quality oils.
Ahh yes Shell oil that is factory filled in every Ferrari including the high revving ones has lots of problem with aeration.
And works with BMW motorsports team, Hyundai WRC-team etc etc.
I think you mean much higher priced oil
or can you give us the source with more info?
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smaller, though reasonably known reputable blenders may have something more to offer for higher quality lubricants with applicable certifications and licenses, if needed,,more personable customer service is often the case,,,, with product transparency...
This is an analysis of one of my favorite HDEOs, Shell Rimula R4X 15W40, it's an old school API SL, CI-4 , ACEA E7 oil, the amount of Boron surprised me, almost 500ppm, if i recall correctly i saw an older analysis of this oil and i don't recall it having 500ppm of Boron for sure.
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It was a lakespeedjr video where he tested a bunch of very old oils and near the end he compared an oil from shell to an oil from HPL. I'm too lazy to find it back but you can google it easily enough.
For crying out loud, are you for real.
The video segment is about modern HPL gear oil vs Ancient Unocal 76 SAE 90 "racing" gear oil.
Not even PCMO or Shell.
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The ASTM D892 foaming test allows up to 50 ml of foam. HPL themselves allow 0. My point being that oils that pass this test will not perform equally even though they all passed the test.
I mean if your engines oil system is badly designed it might actually be a concern.
In reality its not a problem with modern oil specs.
20ml for MB 229.X.
50ml is basic ACEA light duty spec.
Random 229.51 oil with 0ml ASTM D892-11 spec.
https://eurocarslube.com/5W30-synthetic-euro-cars.php
Meguin german "budget brand" 229.3 with 0ml
https://meguin.su/1/Meguin-Motorenoil-Ultra-Performance-Longlife-R-SAE-5W_40_TDS_20201124.pdf
Its a none issue. Just get a good spec oil!
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Well you can wave your hand around vaguely and try to claim nothing matters but I'll stick with HPL's premium oil thanks. Other than cost (like $30 difference on a vehicle that cost me $50,000) I see absolutely 0 benefit to running a cheaper oil so why bother compromising?
We all have to make our decisions. I don't see a need for HPL in my Toyotas. If they don't reach 300,000+ miles it won't be due to the oil. Kirkland is fine and meets specs. As you say, there is no benefit to me running Kirkland over HPL other than my wallet.
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That's not what I said at all. My viewpoint is I want the best oil money can buy, and clearly "meeting the specs" doesn't mean that all oils perform the same as the specs leave room for different oils to perform differently. 50 ml of foam is not the same as 0.
I can't predict how much longer (if any) my engine will last on HPL. But I do know I'm giving it the best chance it has, and that's enough for me. The cost is the only downside, but keeping mind that I spend the difference in oil cost in about 4 days of driving just on gas alone, it's not something I'm going to focus on. Quality costs what it costs and in this case it's not even worth arguing about.
You got this the wrong way around. You are the one throwing around loose claims that boutique oils make a difference without any proof.
I just disproved that HPL makes "better" oils regarding foam tendency.
_Facts matter_
Every extra dollar you spend on oil is an extra dollar that could shorten the OCI with cheaper oil.
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