Mobil3 1 4T 10W-40/K&N filter/2006 GSX-R 600

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Jaymus

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Ah, just wanted to talk about my upcoming oil change tomorrow or the day after, whichever is going to be the nicest day. I purchased a Michelin Pilot Power 3 (which I have read nothing but extremely good things about) for the back of my bike. Also am going to put some fresh oil in. I believe I hold 2.8q with filter change, but I got 4 quarts just in case I use any oil. I haven't had this bike long. I am excited about the tire, and just wanted to drop in and show a pic of what's going in my crankcase soon. Not saying this is the best (because there really is no BEST for everything), but I have read nothing but positive UOA's and thoughts on this oil. Let's hope it holds up
smile.gif


BTW that is a KN138 filter in case it is too blurry. I read it was a working crossover,and read about others using it and the s version. So, I think I'm ok there.

mufwhe.jpg
 
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I had the same bike, while not everyone does it many recommended a new crush washer on the drain plug.

Go easy on tightening the drain plug as many over tighten and crack the oil pan.

The old oil filter O ring in known to stick on the filter mount so get a flashlight and make sure it is off.

Also lube the oil filter rubber gasket very well.

I also used the OEM, K&N and Amsoil filters on my 600 and they all worked very well.

If you want a free service manual this site has them.

http://servicemanualsgsxr.com/
 
Thanks for the tips, rraiderr. I will definitely focus when tightening my drain plug.

Off topic, but would you mind telling me the mileage you had your bike during, which bike exactly (year, cc), and how it did for you? It has the MotoGP pipe and cat delete on it. Runs GREAT IMO.
 
05 1000, 06 600, 08 600, 08 750 and now a 2012 1000.

All were used for street and track, they had many mods.

The 05 was totaled but is still in use on the race track but has no speedo. The 06 had about 40000 on it when we sold it. The buyer is still using it for street and track.

The 08's had in the 20's and are still in use by the buyers.

The 2012 has 1000 on it but they are all track miles.

Take care of the gixxer and they go for a long time.
 
Thanks Raider, that's good to know. I ride my bikes a little hard. Not "wrong", aka hitting the rev limiter all the time, but WOT here and there... everywhere. Just kidding, but of course, I like to feel the power. I know some people can ride a super sport without ever going over 6K RPM, but I like to hear them scream, and I do visit 16K RPM practically anytime I ride.

My first bike was a 2002 Honda Shadow 750. After riding for a couple of months, it went from using no oil, smoking none at all, to consuming oil and blowing visible smoke on revs from idle. Maybe I was too hard on it. I was using Rotella and a Mobil filter (cross referenced) on it. I was actually using a combination of "proven" oil and filter on my bike, according to some Honda Shadow forums. Well, either the oil didn't hold up, there was a design flaw, or the bike straight up couldn't handle my hours of riding and hard riding at that. Don't anyone take this like I'm saying I'm a pro and I like to blaze through the twisties, I'm not, but I've always had a slightly heavy foot, that's all.


Originally Posted By: john_pifer
Where in TN are you?


I live in east Tennessee, in the middle of Morristown, Rogersville, and Greeneville. Bulls Gap to be specific lol.
 
Originally Posted By: Jaymus
Thanks Raider, that's good to know. I ride my bikes a little hard. Not "wrong", aka hitting the rev limiter all the time, but WOT here and there... everywhere. Just kidding, but of course, I like to feel the power. I know some people can ride a super sport without ever going over 6K RPM, but I like to hear them scream, and I do visit 16K RPM practically anytime I ride.


You should see the carbon build up in the gixxers that are not reved up often. It is shocking.

With our bikes hitting the rev limiter and us using Amsoil Quickshot carbon build up has not been much of an issue.

Getting plugs out of a carbon built up heads on the gixxer can end up being very costly.
 
I've read of and seen many oil pan drain holes with stripped threads, over the years. My advice is to get a good torque wrench, a new crush washer, and then tighten the drain plug to the 16.5 lb-ft spec.
 
I will save you some money.

If you decide you want want to run the bike on the track, flush the forks and add a 5mm shim to the clevis.

That is the best you can do with OEM suspension.

With aftermarket suspension you can get fork extenders and more rear ride height.

That year and most late model gixxers respond best to raising both ends considerably. Very opposite to most other bikes.
 
Originally Posted By: rraiderr

Getting plugs out of a carbon built up heads on the gixxer can end up being very costly.


does anti-sieze on the plug threads not help?
 
The K&N motorcycle oil filters are made by Hiflofiltro in Thailand. They seem to be OK, but I don't know if they're any better than the Hiflo HF138 filter that costs less. I don't like the Hiflo air filter for my V-Strom--the perforated steel backing plate seems to be too restrictive at high rpms, but the Hiflo oil filters have worked well.

Jaymus, are all the fluids fresh in your bike? Coolant, fork oil, front & rear brake fluid? Never a bad idea to change them when a used bike is acquired.
 
Originally Posted By: sunruh
Originally Posted By: rraiderr

Getting plugs out of a carbon built up heads on the gixxer can end up being very costly.


does anti-sieze on the plug threads not help?


We use copper anti seize but the actual plug hangs in to the cylinder threads and all. The threads that are in the cylinder get carbon-ed up and when you try to remove them the carbon build up on the threads either causes the plug to snap or threads to come with it.

No idea why they do this.
 
Back when I had my corvette using copper anti-seize on spark plugs going into those aluminum heads was a big no-no. Relates to some metallurgic reaction between the two when heat was introduced. The nickel based gray stuff was the one to use.

Originally Posted By: rraiderr
We use copper anti seize but the actual plug hangs in to the cylinder threads and all. The threads that are in the cylinder get carbon-ed up and when you try to remove them the carbon build up on the threads either causes the plug to snap or threads to come with it.

No idea why they do this.
 
Originally Posted By: sunruh
now i understand
why not run a shorter length plug then...that seems crazy!


I don't get it either, I spoke to our local Suzuki regional tech and the spec-ed out plugs are what they recommend.

I checked a few other brands and they are all identical size to the OEM ones.
 
Took the plugs out of my R1 tonite. They'd been in there for years and tens of thousands of miles, and were barely more than finger-tight.
 
Originally Posted By: rraiderr
Originally Posted By: sunruh
now i understand
why not run a shorter length plug then...that seems crazy!


I don't get it either, I spoke to our local Suzuki regional tech and the spec-ed out plugs are what they recommend.

I checked a few other brands and they are all identical size to the OEM ones.



why dont you use sparkplug indexing washers to get the threads out of the chamber?
 
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