Mobil 1300s 15w40 too thick for 94 Ford 3.0 V-6?

[John With Beastly 302]

My Sable has 190k on the odometer and I have been using this 15w40 for about 50k miles now. Is this too thick? I have heard that these thicker oils cause more wear in an application like mine because the oil clearances in gas engines are designed for a 30wt oil. I use the 15w40 because I think it gives me better wear protection with also better cleanliness. Also I live on the central coast of California so it rarely gets under 20 degrees. So am I right or wrong guys?

At the shop I work at we have Mobil Clean 5w30 in bulk and I am wondering if my 3.0 pushrod V-6 would benefit from using this instead of the 1300s we have in bulk also.

 

[DieselTech]

Really no pushrod engines can usually use a little thicker oil. If it were an OHC engine I would say the 15 is too heavy as it's important to get oil to the cams as fast as possible. With the milage that is on it, it's safe to say it's loose enough for 40weight. Lighter weight oils are usally more shear stable. Diesel oil in a gas engine doesn't usually stay in grade to well from my expierence either.

 

[John With Beastly 302]

Originally Posted By: DieselTech
Really no pushrod engines can usually use a little thicker oil. If it were an OHC engine I would say the 15 is too heavy as it's important to get oil to the cams as fast as possible. With the milage that is on it, it's safe to say it's loose enough for 40weight. Lighter weight oils are usally more shear stable. Diesel oil in a gas engine doesn't usually stay in grade to well from my expierence either.


Now, why does the diesel oil not stay in grade as well as it would in a gas engine? The oil is rated both SM/CJ-4. And just thinking aloud, the two environments are undoubtedly different. In the Diesel you have quite bit more soot right, especially with EGR. It is also going to be hotter in the Diesel, lets see what else. The fuels are different so the blowby composition will be different. It would seem that the environment of a 190k 3.0 V-6 would be less of a stress on the oil than in lets say a 7.3 or 6.0 Powerstroke. And because my gas engine puts less of a stress on the oil I thought I would be benefiting the engine from using the Mobil 1300s. Again am I wright or wrong?

 

[Brons2]

It doesn't get that hot on the central california coast, either. I doubt you're doing any harm with the 15w40 in a 190K pushrod engine, but you might get better mileage with Xw30.

 

[dnewton3]

Overall, that 3.0L Vulcan is about as stout as an anvil. It likely won't matter much at all.

I would run the bulk 5w-30 for 5k mile OCIs, and it will last another 190k miles!

 

[38sho]

whatever one is cheaper, if the 5w-30 is cheaper, and its working just as good..... keep on using it!

 

[D-Roc]

How about Delvac 1300 10W30?

 

[lipadj46]

15w40 is perfectly acceptable especially in CA. If an engine shears a 15w40 HDEO then it is going to destroy a 5w30 PCMO.

 

[lipadj46]

15w40 is perfectly acceptable especially in CA. If an engine shears a 15w40 HDEO then it is going to destroy a 5w30 PCMO.

Rotella T5 10w30 syn blend is now readily available at Walmart.

 

[fdcg27]

Well, I used Tection 15W-40 in our 3.0 Aerostar for two changes of 4K each last spring/summer (too short, I know), and nothing bad happened.
It will be getting the same this year, since I got three jugs of the stuff at $3.74 each on clearance last fall.

 

[John With Beastly 302]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Overall, that 3.0L Vulcan is about as stout as an anvil. It likely won't matter much at all.

I would run the bulk 5w-30 for 5k mile OCIs, and it will last another 190k miles!


On the 5k OCI's what if I go a year without putting 5K on the motor? As far as a time interval what is considered the max? 1 year? Definitely not the oil company money making every 3 months interval. I have heard 1 year but was curious what the general rule is.

 

[dnewton3]

There is a UOA somewhere on this site where a guy went four years on Mobil 1 in his dad's Tundra. UOA came back fine.

Oil has no idea how old it is. If you go slighly over a year, there will be no harm whatsoever.

I routinely run Rotella dino 10w-30 in my 1966 Mustang 289 for three year OCIs. I just don't drive it enough to warrant changes more often than that.

 

[John With Beastly 302]

How long can you run a conventional oil filter like a standard Donaldson P55 series or wix? Also should I worry about switching the vulcan over to 5w30 right now or just run the 15w40 for how long? I have been doing 3k oci's but if you guys think I can go longer how long should I safely go?

 

[dnewton3]

Regarding the oil filter, it can last as long as the OCI you intend for the lubricant.

That little Vulcan is reknowned for it's longevity. And they really don't seem to care what oil is inside of them, as long as you keep the oil level up where it belongs.

I'm not saying you can't run 15w-40; clearly you can. I'm saying that the engine is so well made (good design and manufacture, along with low power production = super long life) that it really does not matter what you put it in. So to that end, why spend for HDEO (which typically is more $$$ than PCMO) when you won't reap any significant ROI?

Just run the least expensive SM rated 5w-30 oil you can find on sale for 5k mile OCIs and it will last another 190K miles. If you want longer OCIs, then upgrade to synthetics.

I've had a few of these engines in my lifetime in different vehicles (Taurus's? Taurusses? Tauri?

). The enigne is just not that sensitive to oil brand or grade.

 

[John With Beastly 302]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Regarding the oil filter, it can last as long as the OCI you intend for the lubricant.

That little Vulcan is reknowned for it's longevity. And they really don't seem to care what oil is inside of them, as long as you keep the oil level up where it belongs.

I'm not saying you can't run 15w-40; clearly you can. I'm saying that the engine is so well made (good design and manufacture, along with low power production = super long life) that it really does not matter what you put it in. So to that end, why spend for HDEO (which typically is more $$$ than PCMO) when you won't reap any significant ROI?

Just run the least expensive SM rated 5w-30 oil you can find on sale for 5k mile OCIs and it will last another 190K miles. If you want longer OCIs, then upgrade to synthetics.

I've had a few of these engines in my lifetime in different vehicles (Taurus's? Taurusses? Tauri?

). The enigne is just not that sensitive to oil brand or grade.


Ya everything I have read about these Vulcans is that they are stout, and to top it off I average 21MPG which is twice as much as my 91 F-250 7.5. Now if only the AXODE/AX4S would last as long. My folks put a Ford reman tranny in the Sable at 102,000 when the 3-2 gear piston cracked and this was in 2002 before my license.

My main question is when do you decide that it has been enough time or mileage for a OCI. Should I say 5K or 1 year and just quit worrying about it? On my folks 05' F-350 6.0 which hardly gets driven I run 3K OCI's or 1 year. I know the right thing to do is to do a UOS (used oil sample) but the cost of one is only a few bucks cheaper then just changing the oil, at least for the vulcan.

 

[dnewton3]

You're correct; a UOA is the only way to know for SURE how it will fare. But ...

You have the luxury of reviewing hundreds of UOAs here on this site an drawing some analogies.

Let me save you the time from a guy who's been there, done that.

5k miles or up to a year is easily doable for the Vulcan with dino oil in the correct grade/spec. It can probably go more, but at that point the peace of mind coming from an OCI probably outweighs any the extended savings past that point. Much of it depends upon your service factor. If a large portion of your low annual mileage is short trips where the engine does not get up to temps, then perhaps cut it back to 6 months. But if you get it up to temp and drive it well, 1 year should be no issue whatsoever. This is how I get away with three year OCIs in my classic Mustang. I don't drive it much at all, but when I do, I drive it for an hour or two on a nice Sunday cruise. Always gets up to temp and stays there and really heat-soaks the metal. Since it's old carb, low effiency in design, there is some reasonable concern for fuel contamination and condensation. But my long, infrequent driving boils these out. So I don't worry about three years. But your Vulcan is different; it's fuel injected and has a much newer design. Therefore, one year is easily doable, and I've personally done this on mine with no real issues.

You are correct in that it's often cheaper for small sump systems to OCI rather than UOA. Assuming your engine is in good mechanical condition, you're not at risk for any massive contamination.

You have three choices.
1) take my advice based upon personal experience with two Vulcans
2) run your own UOAs to assure yourself of whatever you suspect or doubt
3) OCI often and never know

It's not for me to make up your mind. It's for me to offer the advice you sought and let you decide.

 

[Geonerd]

Originally Posted By: Brons2
It doesn't get that hot on the central california coast, either. I doubt you're doing any harm with the 15w40 in a 190K pushrod engine, but you might get better mileage with Xw30.


Santa Margarita gets plenty warm in the summer!

IMO, so long as the engine cranks and starts cleanly on those rare 20F mornings, 15W-40 is an entirely wonderful oil!

 

[John With Beastly 302]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
You're correct; a UOA is the only way to know for SURE how it will fare. But ...

You have the luxury of reviewing hundreds of UOAs here on this site an drawing some analogies.

Let me save you the time from a guy who's been there, done that.

5k miles or up to a year is easily doable for the Vulcan with dino oil in the correct grade/spec. It can probably go more, but at that point the peace of mind coming from an OCI probably outweighs any the extended savings past that point. Much of it depends upon your service factor. If a large portion of your low annual mileage is short trips where the engine does not get up to temps, then perhaps cut it back to 6 months. But if you get it up to temp and drive it well, 1 year should be no issue whatsoever. This is how I get away with three year OCIs in my classic Mustang. I don't drive it much at all, but when I do, I drive it for an hour or two on a nice Sunday cruise. Always gets up to temp and stays there and really heat-soaks the metal. Since it's old carb, low effiency in design, there is some reasonable concern for fuel contamination and condensation. But my long, infrequent driving boils these out. So I don't worry about three years. But your Vulcan is different; it's fuel injected and has a much newer design. Therefore, one year is easily doable, and I've personally done this on mine with no real issues.

You are correct in that it's often cheaper for small sump systems to OCI rather than UOA. Assuming your engine is in good mechanical condition, you're not at risk for any massive contamination.

You have three choices.
1) take my advice based upon personal experience with two Vulcans
2) run your own UOAs to assure yourself of whatever you suspect or doubt
3) OCI often and never know

It's not for me to make up your mind. It's for me to offer the advice you sought and let you decide.


Thanks for doing the HMWK for me it will give me more time for my College HMWK. Right now I basically drive 15 miles to Cuesta College and then 15 miles back home. On the way home about 3-4 miles is up a 7% grade @ 65mph. I drive the same grade going to school but it is close to only 2 miles going southbound. So I guess what I will do, and please tell me if this is a good idea or not, is run the 1300s 15w-40 thats in the sump for another 3K because I have only got 2K on the oil right now and when it comes time to change it @ 5K or one year I will switch to the Mobil Clean Bulk 5w30. Or maybe when I get a little extra cash I will just switch to the bulk 5w30 this summer when I service the tranny and coolant. How many miles did u get out of your AXODE/AX4S or did you have the AX4N? I've got the AXODE/AX4S.

 

[dnewton3]

I'd go ahead and get your value out of the 1300 before you dump it. After that, any SM/GF-4 5w-30 will work; get the least expensive brand on sale when you go shopping.

My 1992 had the AX4S; finally gave it to my sister and she dumped it off finally with about 280k miles on it; no tranny issue.

My 1997 had the AX4N; I traded it for my Fusion. Never any tranny issues there either.

But, I can assure you that I take good care of my stuff, and tranny maintenance tends to get neglected by some folks moreso than the engine. I typically install a drain plug, if the pan does not already come with one. That makes the changes much easier, and therefore more likely to happen.

 

[onion]

I've been running 15W40 in my GM 3100 V6 engines for many years. They're at 176k and 215k, respectively... so it can't have done much harm.