Looks like I'll stay with Mobile in my Mazda 6, I was thinking about trying different syn oils but my OCI is 6,000 miles.
Mobil 1 use means a clean engine?
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Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
What filter have you been using?
Does the filter run the whole interval or do you replace it?
10 - 14,000 mile / 1 year intervals are very impressive. One day I'm going to get the nerve up to try that myself.
Mobil 1 seems to be amazing oil. Maybe all those auto manufacturers know what they're talking about.
In a well maintained, optimally running engine, it's really no feat at all.
Up until the last oil change, I had been using SuperTech and Purolator Premium Plus filters (once the supplier for OEM Subaru) and with the exception of the first OCI, I've been running the same filter for the entire OCI. I did the mid-OCI filter swap after we bought the car because the previous owner had used dino -- just to be safe but probably not all that necessary.
It takes quite a bit to plug up an oil filter, and my car consumes a bit of oil, hence I see no need to do the midway filter replacements. Make-up oil bolsters the TBN, which is a key factor in extended OCIs. Replacing the filter allows for the addition of fresh oil, which might be necessary if your car consumes no oil at all. But a new filter doesn't necessarily filter any better, perhaps worse.
During the summer oil specials, I picked up a bunch of Mobil 1 and Purolator PureOne filters for the first time.
Mobil has economy of scale on their side, and in the US, they offer a range of grades that no other OTC company offers. I like their 0W20, 0W30, and especially their 0W40 (very robust TBN) grades for passenger cars. 5W40 TBD is also a great all-around oil that I'll use in certain cars and motorcycles.
While most of us never experience the benefits of a OW-XX oil, the broad viscosity range certainly indicates the use of better (IV,V) base stocks. But the truth about this is anyone's guess?
Comparable grades by Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc... are just in IMHO, on par with Mobil.
For now, I'm going with the German Castrol, which is sort of an in-between-grade oil, a "0W35." In another 70K miles, I'll probably move up to the Mobil 1 0W40. Better stock up now before Mobil decides to pull it from their lineup.
What filter have you been using?
Does the filter run the whole interval or do you replace it?
10 - 14,000 mile / 1 year intervals are very impressive. One day I'm going to get the nerve up to try that myself.
Mobil 1 seems to be amazing oil. Maybe all those auto manufacturers know what they're talking about.
In a well maintained, optimally running engine, it's really no feat at all.
Up until the last oil change, I had been using SuperTech and Purolator Premium Plus filters (once the supplier for OEM Subaru) and with the exception of the first OCI, I've been running the same filter for the entire OCI. I did the mid-OCI filter swap after we bought the car because the previous owner had used dino -- just to be safe but probably not all that necessary.
It takes quite a bit to plug up an oil filter, and my car consumes a bit of oil, hence I see no need to do the midway filter replacements. Make-up oil bolsters the TBN, which is a key factor in extended OCIs. Replacing the filter allows for the addition of fresh oil, which might be necessary if your car consumes no oil at all. But a new filter doesn't necessarily filter any better, perhaps worse.
During the summer oil specials, I picked up a bunch of Mobil 1 and Purolator PureOne filters for the first time.
Mobil has economy of scale on their side, and in the US, they offer a range of grades that no other OTC company offers. I like their 0W20, 0W30, and especially their 0W40 (very robust TBN) grades for passenger cars. 5W40 TBD is also a great all-around oil that I'll use in certain cars and motorcycles.
While most of us never experience the benefits of a OW-XX oil, the broad viscosity range certainly indicates the use of better (IV,V) base stocks. But the truth about this is anyone's guess?
Comparable grades by Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc... are just in IMHO, on par with Mobil.
For now, I'm going with the German Castrol, which is sort of an in-between-grade oil, a "0W35." In another 70K miles, I'll probably move up to the Mobil 1 0W40. Better stock up now before Mobil decides to pull it from their lineup.
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In my experience in my 2000 Nissan Frontier P/U, I have used dino 5w-30, 10w-30 Citgo Oil (5W-30 Citgo From Dealer Change),Quaker State, Pennzoil, and Conoco, with OEM Filters, and yes some "wonderful" lol, Jiffy Lube oil filters. I did this from the time I bought the truck new. Then in the Summer of 2008, I switched to Castrol Synthetic Blend 5W-30, Purolator Oil Filter, at 3k miles the oil became very dark, and at 4k miles, I changed the oil to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and Purolator Oil Filter, using OEM mileage to change the oil. Well, I ran 1k miles on this oil change, and the Mobil is as dark now as the Castrol was at 3k miles. Maybe the Mobil 1 is cleaning my motor...The other day I bought the Purolator PureOne Oil Filter, because my mechanic could not get one from his supplier when I changed to Mobil, so I am eager, when the time comes, 12 mos/12,000 miles to change the oil filter along with the oil.Just to see what happens....I have tried to maintain the vehicle using the 3-4k oci, but now that it is out of warranty, I want to stretch the oci out to longer periods between changes.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
I waiting for Bill to chime in.
Ok, I'll chime in.
This board and these threads have shown how STUPID this board has become.
Unless you tear down a engine, any other facts are useless.
UOAs are useless.
I guess I need to be tearing apart my motors to prove that all is ok.
Sorry, The only motor I have had to tear apart was spotless. (and ran conventional oil ALL of its life (incl the first 21k as a rent a car)
I've had to have valve covers off and they were spotless. But that would be impossible since I am not intelligent enough to want the best for my engines and spend the "little" extra for the real good oil.
In over 30 years, never had any REASON to be tearing apart perfectly running engines. Engines that run well past 200, 300k MILES with NO issues.
I'm glad I don't have to spent all my time defending wasting $$ for oil that they don't need.
This is NOT the board I joined when it started back in 2002. I've spent a lot of time and effort to try to state facts over the years to keep things real.
I see that was time wasted.
New members who post 500 times in a couple of weeks INSTEAD of maybe spending time READING posts and gaining data before posting away.
I guess 30 plus years of actual experience means nothing to a 30 year old. They spend the $$ for the best and that is all there is to it.
You guys can have at it.
Congratulations on really making informative threads.
Bill
I waiting for Bill to chime in.
Ok, I'll chime in.
This board and these threads have shown how STUPID this board has become.
Unless you tear down a engine, any other facts are useless.
UOAs are useless.
I guess I need to be tearing apart my motors to prove that all is ok.
Sorry, The only motor I have had to tear apart was spotless. (and ran conventional oil ALL of its life (incl the first 21k as a rent a car)
I've had to have valve covers off and they were spotless. But that would be impossible since I am not intelligent enough to want the best for my engines and spend the "little" extra for the real good oil.
In over 30 years, never had any REASON to be tearing apart perfectly running engines. Engines that run well past 200, 300k MILES with NO issues.
I'm glad I don't have to spent all my time defending wasting $$ for oil that they don't need.
This is NOT the board I joined when it started back in 2002. I've spent a lot of time and effort to try to state facts over the years to keep things real.
I see that was time wasted.
New members who post 500 times in a couple of weeks INSTEAD of maybe spending time READING posts and gaining data before posting away.
I guess 30 plus years of actual experience means nothing to a 30 year old. They spend the $$ for the best and that is all there is to it.
You guys can have at it.
Congratulations on really making informative threads.
Bill
Bill - you hit the nail on the head. I mean, there are 4 or 5 Mobil threads alone running. None make any sense and are all full of junk. I've not been on this board as long as you, but when I first came here I enjoyed the technical discussions we all had with FACTS. Now we're all about bashing people, telling people what oil to use and if you don't use thatoil then you're a jerk and none is ever based on FACTS anymore. I've noticed 3 or 4 posters have long disappeared or don't post nearly as much as they used to. I used to love reading obbop (spelled wrg I know), Terry Dyson had lots to say, that Doctor Aehaas guy that I loved looking at his cars, and Gman never are here much anymore. I could mention more.
Bottom line is this - good maintenance keeps your car clean. True, Mobil 1 (not mobile!!!) is a strong cleaning oil. But so are other synlubes like PP and Redline - which BTW may even be a better cleaning oil. I think when you see a bad looking valve cover pic it's just an extreme lack of maintence.
And this comes from an almost life long user of Mobil 1. I use Mobil 1 and Redline oils almost exclusively. I have always been happy with Mobil 1 HOWEVER - I do not tell other members that their oil is junk because I don't really think there is a "bad" oil out there with all the specs to be met. There are just better oils that exceed specs.
Just my 2 cents...
Bottom line is this - good maintenance keeps your car clean. True, Mobil 1 (not mobile!!!) is a strong cleaning oil. But so are other synlubes like PP and Redline - which BTW may even be a better cleaning oil. I think when you see a bad looking valve cover pic it's just an extreme lack of maintence.
And this comes from an almost life long user of Mobil 1. I use Mobil 1 and Redline oils almost exclusively. I have always been happy with Mobil 1 HOWEVER - I do not tell other members that their oil is junk because I don't really think there is a "bad" oil out there with all the specs to be met. There are just better oils that exceed specs.
Just my 2 cents...
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bill .... -- excellent post. thank you.
I think what a lot of people also miss is the conditions in which a car is used. EG: NYS is a fairly big state, now take two cars running the same oil for an OCI as suggested by the OM based on driving conditions and habits. One person living on L.I. making a commute to NYC 5 days a week, vs the guy that lives up in the Adirondacks driving from Clifton Park to Chestertown for work. That guy from Clifton Park is going to have a cleaner better running engine 10 years down the road. 300,000 miles Upstate NY driving is probably equal to or less than 150,000 miles driving on LI. Oil brand and type doesn't mean half as much as how a car is driven.
This topic gets back to an original complaint that I had about the ABSOLUTE TRUTH OF UOAs as indicators of wear, as wear metals in engines can show up in the oil, not show up in UOAs because of size, or also get deposited in films. If a film based upon oil is deposited all around the inside of an engine it will by definition also contain some of the wear metals that are in the oil. The anti-wear films also end up incorporating some metals. So, an oil that leaves an engine very clean will also tend to exhibit higher wear metals as it's not leaving the metals inside the engine.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
This board and these threads have shown how STUPID this board has become.
This is NOT the board I joined when it started back in 2002. I've spent a lot of time and effort to try to state facts over the years to keep things real.
I see that was time wasted.
New members who post 500 times in a couple of weeks INSTEAD of maybe spending time READING posts and gaining data before posting away.
Amen.
This board and these threads have shown how STUPID this board has become.
This is NOT the board I joined when it started back in 2002. I've spent a lot of time and effort to try to state facts over the years to keep things real.
I see that was time wasted.
New members who post 500 times in a couple of weeks INSTEAD of maybe spending time READING posts and gaining data before posting away.
Amen.
1sttruck,
You are correct about UOAs IMO. The subject here is a bout M1. Even though I haven't used the other oils I'm sure they are fine products. Mobil 1 keeps engines clean, and a clean engine is a long lasting engine. As a 31 year user of M1 thats my experience.
You are correct about UOAs IMO. The subject here is a bout M1. Even though I haven't used the other oils I'm sure they are fine products. Mobil 1 keeps engines clean, and a clean engine is a long lasting engine. As a 31 year user of M1 thats my experience.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
I waiting for Bill to chime in.
Ok, I'll chime in.
This board and these threads have shown how STUPID this board has become.
Unless you tear down a engine, any other facts are useless.
UOAs are useless.
I guess I need to be tearing apart my motors to prove that all is ok.
Sorry, The only motor I have had to tear apart was spotless. (and ran conventional oil ALL of its life (incl the first 21k as a rent a car)
I've had to have valve covers off and they were spotless. But that would be impossible since I am not intelligent enough to want the best for my engines and spend the "little" extra for the real good oil.
In over 30 years, never had any REASON to be tearing apart perfectly running engines. Engines that run well past 200, 300k MILES with NO issues.
I'm glad I don't have to spent all my time defending wasting $$ for oil that they don't need.
This is NOT the board I joined when it started back in 2002. I've spent a lot of time and effort to try to state facts over the years to keep things real.
I see that was time wasted.
New members who post 500 times in a couple of weeks INSTEAD of maybe spending time READING posts and gaining data before posting away.
I guess 30 plus years of actual experience means nothing to a 30 year old. They spend the $$ for the best and that is all there is to it.
You guys can have at it.
Congratulations on really making informative threads.
Bill
Bill sums up the state of this place as it has grown over the past few years perfectly.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
I waiting for Bill to chime in.
Ok, I'll chime in.
This board and these threads have shown how STUPID this board has become.
Unless you tear down a engine, any other facts are useless.
UOAs are useless.
I guess I need to be tearing apart my motors to prove that all is ok.
Sorry, The only motor I have had to tear apart was spotless. (and ran conventional oil ALL of its life (incl the first 21k as a rent a car)
I've had to have valve covers off and they were spotless. But that would be impossible since I am not intelligent enough to want the best for my engines and spend the "little" extra for the real good oil.
In over 30 years, never had any REASON to be tearing apart perfectly running engines. Engines that run well past 200, 300k MILES with NO issues.
I'm glad I don't have to spent all my time defending wasting $$ for oil that they don't need.
This is NOT the board I joined when it started back in 2002. I've spent a lot of time and effort to try to state facts over the years to keep things real.
I see that was time wasted.
New members who post 500 times in a couple of weeks INSTEAD of maybe spending time READING posts and gaining data before posting away.
I guess 30 plus years of actual experience means nothing to a 30 year old. They spend the $$ for the best and that is all there is to it.
You guys can have at it.
Congratulations on really making informative threads.
Bill
Bill sums up the state of this place as it has grown over the past few years perfectly.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Art Vandelay,
Two weeks ago I called Mobil and their tech told me that all Mobil 1 tagged oils are group 4 oils.
Thank you for passing that along.
That makes it the least expensive Group IV oil available along with German Castrol 0w-30 doesn't it?
Art Vandelay,
Two weeks ago I called Mobil and their tech told me that all Mobil 1 tagged oils are group 4 oils.
Thank you for passing that along.
That makes it the least expensive Group IV oil available along with German Castrol 0w-30 doesn't it?
Hey guys. My wife has used only Mobil one in her truck since new at 7500 mile oil changes,and it its aknown sludger (3.9). Mobil one has not kept her motor clean inside,I know this firsthand.I cant say its bad oil and any other would do better.The truck runs great and about 80 per cent is highway miles,maybe I should change it every 3000.
Our oldest Toyota, a '96 Camry has the 'known sludger' 3.0L V-6. 228,900 miles, the last 175,000 on Mobil 1. Valve covers and valvetrain clean (I know, the sludging is supposedly post '96 models). 2003 4.7 Tundra's on Delvac 1 (98K miles)and '08 2.7L Tacoma M-1 0W-30. Lest you find me a total Mobil devotee, the Tundra gets 15K A/T pan drains with Toyota T-IV & the rear differential has Pennzoil dino with GM anti-slip & the Tacoma 5/MT has been changed to Redline MT-90.
I appreciate Doug Hilliary, other recent posters who have the professional background and experience to educate me.
I regret that folks like George Morrison and Terry Dyson (and others) no longer post herein. BITOG has lost far too many who contributed valuable information.
The oil salesmen, those with an unfounded bias and others with some sort of adjenda I simply ignore.
I appreciate Doug Hilliary, other recent posters who have the professional background and experience to educate me.
I regret that folks like George Morrison and Terry Dyson (and others) no longer post herein. BITOG has lost far too many who contributed valuable information.
The oil salesmen, those with an unfounded bias and others with some sort of adjenda I simply ignore.
Why would you blame an oil for sludge on a known engine that is a sludger?
Thats what I wanna know!
Originally Posted By: JasonC
Why would you blame an oil for sludge on a known engine that is a sludger?
I can't speak for him but if I said what he did, my intent would be to point out that one can use Mobil 1 in a sludger at what seems to be reasonable OCIs and still get sludge. It's not all that surprising. What's lacking are results from other oils in that same particular engine to compare to.
The ability to prevent sludge is a much tested metric of oils during testing to meet API, ILSAC, ACEA, etc. specs. In "field testing" such as what we here inadvertently do, testing it in a sludger is just a very severe test (as are long drains in non-sludgers). If one oil keeps the engine cleaner than another, kudos to it, and let's be happy to hear about it.
Why would you blame an oil for sludge on a known engine that is a sludger?
I can't speak for him but if I said what he did, my intent would be to point out that one can use Mobil 1 in a sludger at what seems to be reasonable OCIs and still get sludge. It's not all that surprising. What's lacking are results from other oils in that same particular engine to compare to.
The ability to prevent sludge is a much tested metric of oils during testing to meet API, ILSAC, ACEA, etc. specs. In "field testing" such as what we here inadvertently do, testing it in a sludger is just a very severe test (as are long drains in non-sludgers). If one oil keeps the engine cleaner than another, kudos to it, and let's be happy to hear about it.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
This board and these threads have shown how STUPID this board has become.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
I guess 30 plus years of actual experience means nothing to a 30 year old. They spend the $$ for the best and that is all there is to it.
I guess I'll have to wait another 10 years or so before I can start calling people "STUPID."
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Sorry, The only motor I have had to tear apart was spotless. (and ran conventional oil ALL of its life (incl the first 21k as a rent a car)
In all seriousness, Bill, what happened to this car? Head gasket? Coolant in the oil? I actually wonder if the valve head on my Subaru would look more or less the same if I had run a conventional oil at those same intervals.
Wish I had a clone following everywhere, running the same car except with conventional oil at the same OCI -- would be an interesting long-term study.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
In over 30 years, never had any REASON to be tearing apart perfectly running engines. Engines that run well past 200, 300k MILES with NO issues.
I, too, have run cars well beyond 200K and 300K miles, and I still have a Cherokee with 210K miles that has been on a strict diet of conventional oil during its 18 years of service. When I had the valve covers and oil pan off to replace a leaky rear main seal, it was very clean, though the cast iron block and head surfaces on these cars does tend to collect a little varnish, but no sludge.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
I'm glad I don't have to spent all my time defending wasting $$ for oil that they don't need.
I think that people who manage large fleets make their oil choices based entirely on cost/benefit analyses. I agree that oil choice and intervals should be informed by application and operating conditions.
While certain grades of the Mobil 1 line are certainly very good. If you decide to go with the synthetic stuff, most any major brand would do a fine job.
This board and these threads have shown how STUPID this board has become.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
I guess 30 plus years of actual experience means nothing to a 30 year old. They spend the $$ for the best and that is all there is to it.
I guess I'll have to wait another 10 years or so before I can start calling people "STUPID."
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Sorry, The only motor I have had to tear apart was spotless. (and ran conventional oil ALL of its life (incl the first 21k as a rent a car)
In all seriousness, Bill, what happened to this car? Head gasket? Coolant in the oil? I actually wonder if the valve head on my Subaru would look more or less the same if I had run a conventional oil at those same intervals.
Wish I had a clone following everywhere, running the same car except with conventional oil at the same OCI -- would be an interesting long-term study.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
In over 30 years, never had any REASON to be tearing apart perfectly running engines. Engines that run well past 200, 300k MILES with NO issues.
I, too, have run cars well beyond 200K and 300K miles, and I still have a Cherokee with 210K miles that has been on a strict diet of conventional oil during its 18 years of service. When I had the valve covers and oil pan off to replace a leaky rear main seal, it was very clean, though the cast iron block and head surfaces on these cars does tend to collect a little varnish, but no sludge.
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
I'm glad I don't have to spent all my time defending wasting $$ for oil that they don't need.
I think that people who manage large fleets make their oil choices based entirely on cost/benefit analyses. I agree that oil choice and intervals should be informed by application and operating conditions.
While certain grades of the Mobil 1 line are certainly very good. If you decide to go with the synthetic stuff, most any major brand would do a fine job.
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