Mobil 1 + Toyota engines: Still a good match?

[Bill in Utah]

I'll close my part of this thread with the following;

1. JAG, you've had your posts deleted/edited concerning me by admin of this board, its obvious that you have a problem with me. I'd love to see your running another oil and then Mobil 1 and post the UOAs to prove your mindset correct. Have not seen that yet.

2. I've run Mobil 1 and other oils in more than one engine. Mobil 1 never did better (and did worst than other oils) to prove that its the best or worth its cost over other oils. I have not seen to many people here who post that Mobil is the best do the same. I'd love to see it.

3. As someone who has had many engines go well over 200k in my PERSONAL use and in the family/friends with out using Mobil 1 (and using oils over the years that are WORST than any oil avail today) I wonder how we made all those engines work for all those miles without $$ oils? (and some of those engines are older than some on this board posting that Mobil 1 is the only oil...)

4. Nick. Please don't ask me to defend ANY oil company. Look through my past posts about Castrol, Pennzoil, QS, Mobils S T U P I D marketing. I've bashed them all.

But its working.

Whatever. I stand by the OPs question. Mobil 1 is not the "best" oil for my Toyota. There are as good if not better oils avail for the engines.

I wish more people would try different oils and run their own tests, post the results here and we all could learn.

Instead, we have the this brand is better because... With no facts or data.

Take care, Bill

 

[VVTinme]

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i believe we have the same transmission. i have a 1992 SC400 and its a 4-speed automatic. i'm almost certain its the same one you have. so which ATF are you using from Amsoil? when did you change it out? is it safe for me to change mine out if it hasn't been done before. the car has 135,000 KM on it (not miles).

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Yes, we both have the Aisen-Warner A340E transmission. I use Amsoil ATF transmission fluid. With your mileage, you could do a flush through your radiator lines, i.e. a T-Tech, or multiple drain and fills. I have done 3 (4?) drain and fills since I bought the car, to get the ratio of Amsoil to T-IV up, and the fluid to be cherry red. I did my first drain and fill at 75,000 miles. If you have any more questions please start another thread, and the Amsoil guys will surely chime in.

 

[MatchboxCar]

I cannot believe all the misinformation regarding Mobil 1 here on BITOG, purposfully presented here as "fact". Very disheartening and disappointing... Between the AMSOIL Crowd recommending oils that are not recommended for certain use, and the Mobil 1 bashers, you just cannot get a straight answer here any more. For shame.

I get excellent results, backed up with almost thirty years of UOA with the Mobil 1 product. Dodge (3), Ford (2), Chevy (2), GMC (14 gas), FIAT (1), Saturn (1), Honda (9) - all! I have never had a Toyota, so I can make no specific recommendation there. I have always run extended oil change intervals, at least double that of the recommendation of the manufacturer.

I have never had an engine fail or have serious damage from oil use. Some engines for the last thirty years went over 450K miles. (A Chevy straight six company truck.) Products change over the life of a brand, and people seem stuck on that and wish to push their own agendas. Mobil 1 appears to have changed it's formulation last year. (So what?) If Mobil 1 has a recommended oil for your car or truck, then I would use it with confidence.

 

[mikeg5]

i wouldnt, save the $ and find a syn on sale and do uoa's..

 

[MatchboxCar]

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Well, bottom line is I don't understand why ExxonMobil's gasoline is not "Top Tier." Anyone know?

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Top Tier is a marketing tool/scam and is only an indication of a cleaner package inclusion.

Gasoline is pumped through pipelines everywhere in the USA. You do not buy ExxonMobil gas or Shell or Chevron or BP... You get the melange from the tank farm with a specific cleaner package added after the gasoline is drawn off to go to the retailer. The gasoline is the same, the cleaner package varies.

 

[JAG]

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I'll close my part of this thread with the following;

1. JAG, you've had your posts deleted/edited concerning me by admin of this board, its obvious that you have a problem with me. I'd love to see your running another oil and then Mobil 1 and post the UOAs to prove your mindset correct. Have not seen that yet.

Take care, Bill

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We can't speak on the same level. I've tried several times and it was as if I said nothing. I'm done trying.

 

[LTVibe]

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Well, bottom line is I don't understand why ExxonMobil's gasoline is not "Top Tier." Anyone know?

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This may explain the Top Tier issue:

TheCarConnection

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Q-- I have conflicting information on the need for Top Tier gasoline. According to the official site, the gasolines that meet Top Tier Standards contain significantly more additives (detergents) than required by the EPA. The approved gasoline brands include Chevron, Shell, and 76. Further, and the Top Tier Standard is backed by GM, Honda, Toyota, and BMW.

Interestingly Ford is not backing this standard. I contacted Mobil to ask for their feedback and they said that their gasolines all exceeded the Top Tier standards. Mobil also objects to the qualification process required to advertise their gasolines as meeting the Top Tier Standard.

So, my question is: Is Top Tier gasoline a valid enhancement or is it simply a marketing ploy?



A-- Both. Mobil is not the only company that has balked at climbing on the Top Tier bandwagon and Ford is not the only car company. Our advice? Buy a well-known brand of gas and you can't go wrong.

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[mikeg5]

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I'll close my part of this thread with the following;

1. JAG, you've had your posts deleted/edited concerning me by admin of this board, its obvious that you have a problem with me. I'd love to see your running another oil and then Mobil 1 and post the UOAs to prove your mindset correct. Have not seen that yet.

Take care, Bill

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We can't speak on the same level. I've tried several times and it was as if I said nothing. I'm done trying.

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thank ---- bc M1 is subpar compared to what it USED to be

 

[JohnBrowning]

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...part=1&vc=1

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post240710

Here goes my put up or shut up post's in a Toyota. M1 seems to be doing just fine!

 

[BennyL]

thank you JohnBrowning

 

[Dr_No]

I feel for sonyguy as his thread has been taken over by haters and complainers

 

[jsharp]

Here's a link to add to John's -

http://www.sharpcs.com/personalphotos/OA/Toyota_oil_anaylsis_6.jpg

There are 4 Mobil 1 runs and two GC runs on that vehicle. I'll let the "expurts" that tell us M1 is so inferior figure out which are which. The last one's even a freebie since it's marked...

 

[JohnBrowning]

WOW,It is amazeing how a few UOA results that are good really shut up the M1 Basher's!!!!

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

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WOW,It is amazing how a few UOA results that are good really shut up the M1 Basher's!!!!

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Oh, please. In a Toyota? DOHC? Fuel injection? Valve springs you could push down with one little pinkie? Where's the stress? Where's the comparison to PP, Valvoline, or even a plain old dino run to a mere 3 or 4 K? The point isn't that M1 won't do the job in a lightweight application like a Toyota, the point is, these days ANY oil, dino or Syn conforming to SM/GF4 will do the same, except run the dino to 4 or 5K, and the syn to 7.5K. Any oil is a good match to a Toyota, and for 1/4 the cost.

Only other point is Exxon's continued stance in commercials and printed ads that all's the same-same when in fact it isn't. Group II+ and Group III hydro-cracked synthetics are all the same in a Toyota. It's been pretty well established through UOA, VOA and of course, the obvious fact remains, all these cars go to the junkyard, no matter what oil was used, given reasonable OCI with any oil, with fine running engines and beaten down bodies. Why hand over all that dough to Exxon Mobil for an overpriced hydro cracked dino when one for half, 1/3 or 1/4 the price will do?

 

[Blackplastic]

Why hand over all that dough to Exxon Mobil for an overpriced hydro cracked dino when one for half, 1/3 or 1/4 the price will do?
Link please or some evidence of it being hydro cracked dino.

 

[wizzells]

What in the world is happening to this forum?!
This guy asked for results of M1 in Toyota's and this turns into a ---- match! There are at least a handful of people in this thread that have posted to information and have done nothing but ruffle other's feathers just for the sake of being a pain in the ----. What a ---- joke.

 

[Dr_No]

amen

 

[JohnBrowning]

toocrazy2yoo, Were is your proof that M1 is anything other then PAO or for that matter PAO/GIII? I mean it is not like valoline,PP or any of the other OTC synthetics are 100% PAO across the board for all viscosities yet no one gives them lip for claiming to be 100% synthetic.

I would love to see you completely push open a valve on a little Toyota 2AZ-FE on the engine with just your thumb. Sure I understand were you are comeing from but most engine from most manufacture's have gone to smaller diameter ligter pressure valve springs. Heck I have had double and triple valve spring setup's on old 22RE engine in the past. I have run double valve springs on Chevy Small block's etc.... But what is your point Honda,Audi,Mercedes etc...... are all going to higher spec. materials that are lighter and use less pressure. Since the valve springs do not fatigue as much with use and the valve train is lighter you do not need to start with a monster valve spring especialy at the RPM's most stock engines are turning.

By the way I can bench 405lbs. for 10 set's of 10 rep's and I know I cannot push a wimpy little valve and spring combo on my 2AZ-FE completly open. So you must be a gentic freak.I am sure that you might be able to collapse the spring not on the head like between thumb and index finger if you are a really strong guy or with your body weight and palm with the spring on a table etc....

For what it is worth my 2AZ-FE is not rollerrized like the Buick 3.8.Most Toyota engines have lot's of shear zones were slideing under pressure is how things are acuated.The only reason Toyota's do so well is that the quality of the materials and the machineing is far better then what most of the competition is doing and useing in the same price range. It very obvious what OEM and Import companies are useing top notch design's materials and machineing and wich one's are not!

I am usualy the first one to admit that wear rates are not influenced much by base stock of the oil once you get to GII+ on up. The place where we see the difference is wioth insolubles,deposit control,oxidation how long the oil change interval can be pushed out etc......Now things have been changeing a lot lately but generaly you get a better beefier additive package with synthetics then with a dino. I can not get the additive package I want with a dino oil if I could I would not have to use synthetic for my usual 6 month OCI. Notice I did not mention anything about need I said want! I have to resort to additive's as well to get the oil to where I want it to be. I do not do good enough!

I would end this post with reminding you that the poster who started this thread had a very specific question and you c r a p e d all over it with you pyscho-babble. What you should have done is answered the questioned he asked first and for most. Then if you wanted to rant you should have started another post of your own instead of being rude and hijacking his thread like you did. Notice I not only answered his question I backed up my opion with result wow what a novel idea. I will probably be running some dino this comeing summer to do and AUto-Rx clean and rinse you can never have an engine that is too clean!!!

 

[SubLGT]

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I'm always trying to stay on the leading edge of petroleum products for my car. ..............I'm basically looking for the best protection possible. .........

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Have you taken a look at the oils from RLI?

 

[jsharp]

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WOW,It is amazing how a few UOA results that are good really shut up the M1 Basher's!!!!

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Oh, please. In a Toyota? DOHC? Fuel injection? Valve springs you could push down with one little pinkie? Where's the stress? Where's the comparison to PP, Valvoline, or even a plain old dino run to a mere 3 or 4 K? The point isn't that M1 won't do the job in a lightweight application like a Toyota, the point is, these days ANY oil, dino or Syn conforming to SM/GF4 will do the same, except run the dino to 4 or 5K, and the syn to 7.5K. Any oil is a good match to a Toyota, and for 1/4 the cost.

Only other point is Exxon's continued stance in commercials and printed ads that all's the same-same when in fact it isn't. Group II+ and Group III hydro-cracked synthetics are all the same in a Toyota. It's been pretty well established through UOA, VOA and of course, the obvious fact remains, all these cars go to the junkyard, no matter what oil was used, given reasonable OCI with any oil, with fine running engines and beaten down bodies. Why hand over all that dough to Exxon Mobil for an overpriced hydro cracked dino when one for half, 1/3 or 1/4 the price will do?

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toocrazy2yoo, you seem to know about as much about Toyota engines as you do about oil. Not much, as seen by how little factual information you've posted in this thread.

Many of the DOHC Toyota engines aren't especially easy on oil. They use gear driven camshafts and flat tappets that are known to shear down inferior oils easily. I posted a few UOA's where M1 was used along with another well respected oil, GC. So where's the inferior performance from the M1? I'm not seeing it. Can you point it out to us? And keep in mind, those UOA's weren't 4K or 5K intervals. Many of them are 10K+ miles. And the Mobil 1 wasn't any more expensive than the GC and was a lot easier to find.

Your complaints about Mobil not acknowledging the basestocks they use are also disingenuous, as are your claims that you have any clue of what basestocks are used in a particular type or grade of M1. No other company officially tells what they use either with very few exceptions. Are you in every Pennzoil or Castrol or Valvoline thread ragging about that fact? Of course not.

So if you want hate Exxon/Mobil you're entitled to your opinion. You can also voice it as freely as anyone else on this forum. But when you try to pass that opinion off as "fact", you can probably expect people to call you on it. And also point out that you've offered nothing useful to help answer the questions of the original poster...