Hi guys, I just bought a 92 Mazda Miata and it will of course need an oil change. I would like to use Mobil 1 0w-40. I seem to remember there being an issue with their 5w-30 oil being GIII blend. My question is: I would like to know if M1 0w-40 is still fully synthetic (PAO etc.)? I'm sure the GIIIs would work just fine, but I like to use synthetic purely on principle. Many thanks - Ian.
Mobil 1/Synthetic question
- Thread starter ITY
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No one knows but Mobil. Anyone that says they do is just speculating. If it's good enough for Porsche it should be good enough for your Miata. Use it, it's very good oil.
Patman
Staff member
I just question the need for a 0w40 in that engine. I think 5w30 would be the better choice.
Purley an assumption on my part, but since the car is 15 years old it's probably got a few mile on it. A good 40W in the heat of Alabama won't hurt a thing.
Why would Patman use a 0W30 that is almost a 0W40 in his Vette?
Why would Patman use a 0W30 that is almost a 0W40 in his Vette?
i have used the 0w-40 in both of my miatas with very good results. the 0w part gets lube as quickly as possible to the engine on startup and as johnny says, the 0w40 is a better 30w than mobil's 0w30.
as an aside, i also use the M1 oil filter, and go with the oversize version (M110?), which is the same diameter as the normal size but about 3/4" longer.
again, my goal here is quickest hydrodynamic wedge, and also the lowest pressure drop across the oil filter.
as an aside, i also use the M1 oil filter, and go with the oversize version (M110?), which is the same diameter as the normal size but about 3/4" longer.
again, my goal here is quickest hydrodynamic wedge, and also the lowest pressure drop across the oil filter.
Triple_Se7en
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Has this vehicle been fed synthetic oil?
Is the engine free of yuck buildup inside? If not, then adding synthetic may stir-up trouble inside that engine - possibly creating ticks and/or clatter where dirt/sludge/crud-trappings occur.
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Is the engine free of yuck buildup inside? If not, then adding synthetic may stir-up trouble inside that engine - possibly creating ticks and/or clatter where dirt/sludge/crud-trappings occur.
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The slightly higher than recommended viscosity was a conscious thought on my part. 86,000 miles. Which I know is nothing for that engine, but coupled with the heat down here, I thought it a sensible viscosity. The 0w? yes, I'm a big believer in start-up oil distribution, I love zero weights. I've had a peep into the valve covers, and I see no varnish or sludge. This pleases me immensely of course, but baffles me a little too. Judging by the lack of varnish I would put money on the previous owners using synthetic. I find that hard to believe. BTW, I bought this Miata as a project car, it has supposedly being sitting in a front yard for four (4) years. I put a jump box on it and it fired and ran first crank (no exaggeration). Ran beautifully for about 15 secs and then flooded with the (later discovered) more than two gallons of water from the fuel tank. Oh, and thanks for mentioning the M1 oversize filter, I like those and for some stupid reason didn't bother looking it up. The filter on the car was a genuine Mazda filter. I've put a carquest one on for now (the mazda one was leaking past a perished seal). Thanks for the comments. - Ian.
As to the base oil aspect of the question, a few months back, G-Man posted an XOM patent document that seemed to pretty strongly suggest that the 0w-40 M1 contained no G-III, FWIW. Despite ample doublespeak and chemotalk, my impression was that the 0w-40 was the lone grade that could be singled out as clearly non-G-III. I can't find where I stored it, but I'm sure you can find that thread pretty easily if you like.
patman is a thick 30wt kinda guy
Thinking about going back to stock (canada) A02 filters and M1 for next OCI after the current 'clean' phase with over-sized filter.
The only issue I can think of, regarding higher viscosity oil, would be the oil-spray cooled pistons in the Miata's B6ZE engine. As in, thick oil won't want to spray. Having heard that M1 0w-40 is bordering on a thin 40 weight, do I really think this is an issue at operating temperature? Nah, I guess not.
But wait! The manual specifically states that using any other viscosity (than 10w-30) could cause serious engine damage. Just a "do as we say or we'll void your warranty for the #@$%! of it", or do they know something I don't, Hmmm...
Ah bollocks to it, if I put M1 10w-30 in I'll have that nagging GIII feeling all the time (absurd, I know). M1 0w-40 it is then! - Ian.
But wait! The manual specifically states that using any other viscosity (than 10w-30) could cause serious engine damage. Just a "do as we say or we'll void your warranty for the #@$%! of it", or do they know something I don't, Hmmm...
Ah bollocks to it, if I put M1 10w-30 in I'll have that nagging GIII feeling all the time (absurd, I know). M1 0w-40 it is then! - Ian.
Patman
Staff member
Quote:
patman is a thick 30wt kinda guyJohhny youit's gotta be a Vette thing
Actually, my Corvette now has Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in it.
most of the stuff in the manual has to do with american CAFE standards, not the engine. this one has been chewed to the bone and digested in the miata.net forums, i present this as proof, a page out of the australian miata manual. note the viscosity ranges presented.
http://pjmatt.customer.netspace.net.au/oils.jpg
note that this doesn't have either 0w-40 or 0w-50 on it, but if you can run 5w-20 and 15w-50 in overlapping temp ranges... i don't think you are going to hurt much.
i would probably run a 3k mile OCI on the car the first change of 0w-40 and then go to 10k. this would allow cleaning of the loose sludge if any. i have been running 10k OCIs for the life of my 02, which is currently at 105k and going strong. expect a little oil usage, these engines typically are about a quart low at 10k.
http://pjmatt.customer.netspace.net.au/oils.jpg
note that this doesn't have either 0w-40 or 0w-50 on it, but if you can run 5w-20 and 15w-50 in overlapping temp ranges... i don't think you are going to hurt much.
i would probably run a 3k mile OCI on the car the first change of 0w-40 and then go to 10k. this would allow cleaning of the loose sludge if any. i have been running 10k OCIs for the life of my 02, which is currently at 105k and going strong. expect a little oil usage, these engines typically are about a quart low at 10k.
tdi jerry
$100 Site Donor 2024
i still have not seen any proff that mobil 1 was not pao 100% synthetic.i know their is a lot of talk but i have not seen anything to back it up.
"I still have not seen any proof that Mobil 1 was not PAO 100% synthetic. I know there is a lot of talk but I have not seen anything to back it up."
...and you will never see the kind of "proof" that you seem to need to accept that this has happened. They'll never admit to it specifically. But many things have surfaced that point that direction...
...and you will never see the kind of "proof" that you seem to need to accept that this has happened. They'll never admit to it specifically. But many things have surfaced that point that direction...
tdi jerry
$100 Site Donor 2024
ok where can i find this info ?
gentlemen, i work as a maintenance mechanic at a paper mill here in michigan. we use mobil lubricants exclusively, and have done so for at least 15 years now. we occasionally have a need for mobil to send us one of their lubrication engineers for a lubrication related issue. the last time he visited us i asked him about the group3/group4 controversy surrounding mobil 1 engine oil. he was unaware of any controversy. he stated to me that all mobil 1 synthetics are in fact group 4. i can offer no proof. he is a credible kind of fellow, i've known him for a long time.(work related only). he seemed to rather defensive about it too.
does the words "HE SEEMED RATHER DEFENSIVE ABOUT IT" tell you anything?? btw, not trying to be gregariously Facetious or anything..but.. I've had my moments on this board but this is totally unrelated. you don't need and MBA to know they just don't want anyone to know but BITOG is superior although none of the rhetoric, both from BITOG nor EM, is dictated by any edicts or anything..shrug..what do I know, I am too busy with this great GRP III and if Shell is right about 'not all GROUP IIIs are the same'.. I am going to be a busy boy in the land of GRP IIIs(this would *include* M1 apparently *roll eyes*) before 'graduating' to the higher echelons.
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The Mobil 1 Japanese sites says …
5w-50 …PAO
0w-40 … PAO
5w-40 … PAO
15w-50 …PAO
0w-20 … PAO
0w-30 … PAO
5w-30 … PAO/III
10w-30 … PAO/III
Using the Babel Fish translator …mobil 1 jp …
5w-50 …PAO
0w-40 … PAO
5w-40 … PAO
15w-50 …PAO
0w-20 … PAO
0w-30 … PAO
5w-30 … PAO/III
10w-30 … PAO/III
Using the Babel Fish translator …mobil 1 jp …
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