What group is this oil? How well is it liked?
I thought of changing over from PP and extend drain intervals to 10k.
I thought of changing over from PP and extend drain intervals to 10k.
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Mobil 1 EP
- Thread starter tndiesel
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I just switched from mobil 1 to mobil 1 ep on my wifes truck with a mobil 1 ep filter and I am going to run it to 12,500 miles. You can go 10k on regular mobil 1! I have been doing 10k OCI on my suburban with mobil 1 for the last 150,000 miles, it now has 289,000 miles and uses a 1/2 qt every 5,000 miles. I was going to do the same with her truck but she drives 25,000 miles a year so I figure I would do 12.5k/6months oci's once in the fall and once in the spring.
Originally Posted By: disturban
I just switched from mobil 1 to mobil 1 ep on my wifes truck with a mobil 1 ep filter and I am going to run it to 12,500 miles. You can go 10k on regular mobil 1! I have been doing 10k OCI on my suburban with mobil 1 for the last 150,000 miles, it now has 289,000 miles and uses a 1/2 qt every 5,000 miles. I was going to do the same with her truck but she drives 25,000 miles a year so I figure I would do 12.5k/6months oci's once in the fall and once in the spring.
I agree with disturbans report. I've used M1 for 31 years at 10,000 mile OCI with great sucess. I have been using EP now for several years and it performs equally well. I only do 10,000 mile OCIs but with the UOAs I have done it will go much longer. Did the oil blotter test yesterday on both cars and the oil still seems like new. The Focus has 5500 miles on this OC and still shows nearly clear.
I just switched from mobil 1 to mobil 1 ep on my wifes truck with a mobil 1 ep filter and I am going to run it to 12,500 miles. You can go 10k on regular mobil 1! I have been doing 10k OCI on my suburban with mobil 1 for the last 150,000 miles, it now has 289,000 miles and uses a 1/2 qt every 5,000 miles. I was going to do the same with her truck but she drives 25,000 miles a year so I figure I would do 12.5k/6months oci's once in the fall and once in the spring.
I agree with disturbans report. I've used M1 for 31 years at 10,000 mile OCI with great sucess. I have been using EP now for several years and it performs equally well. I only do 10,000 mile OCIs but with the UOAs I have done it will go much longer. Did the oil blotter test yesterday on both cars and the oil still seems like new. The Focus has 5500 miles on this OC and still shows nearly clear.
The EP doesn't seem to fall out of grade very often, even at 10,000 plus intervals, and TBN's look pretty good after that time as well. I think you'd be fine unless fuel dillution was a concern.
Originally Posted By: Neil_A
Safe to say 50+ % III.
Just curious as to why you would say this, as last time I was really paying attention people were guesstimating that it was around 40% III. Not that it really matters, as UOA's show M1 EP to give stellar results.
Safe to say 50+ % III.
Just curious as to why you would say this, as last time I was really paying attention people were guesstimating that it was around 40% III. Not that it really matters, as UOA's show M1 EP to give stellar results.
I wonder which has a better add package,the MB-1 5W-30ep or MB-1 0W-30??
Originally Posted By: Samilcar
Originally Posted By: Neil_A
Safe to say 50+ % III.
Just curious as to why you would say this, as last time I was really paying attention people were guesstimating that it was around 40% III. Not that it really matters, as UOA's show M1 EP to give stellar results.
I noticed that as well. 30-40-50% is all speculation. My guess is it's a blend of many base oils, and you are right about the end result of EP.
Originally Posted By: Neil_A
Safe to say 50+ % III.
Just curious as to why you would say this, as last time I was really paying attention people were guesstimating that it was around 40% III. Not that it really matters, as UOA's show M1 EP to give stellar results.
I noticed that as well. 30-40-50% is all speculation. My guess is it's a blend of many base oils, and you are right about the end result of EP.
I have been sing it in both my wife's 50k 3.8 Grand Caravan and my Suzuki Aerio 2.3. My wifes Grand Caravan had a tick at higher RPMs that would not disappear with several different dino brands. After using the EP, it completely disappeared.
I've used the 10-40EP in my Suzuki V'Strom (1000cc water cooled V-Twin, shared sump). A UOA is here. I like it and will be using it for the end of season drain/fill. Based on last nite's ice/snow storm, and the prediction of ~7.5" snow over the weekend, I'm thinking that'll be coming up right quick..
Originally Posted By: Samilcar
Originally Posted By: Neil_A
Safe to say 50+ % III.
Just curious as to why you would say this, as last time I was really paying attention people were guesstimating that it was around 40% III. Not that it really matters, as UOA's show M1 EP to give stellar results.
Safe to say is like anything else posted on here about any oils formulation. No one tells us exactly how much or what percentage. They have reformulated several times and they didn’t post a record 45.2 billion dollars worth of profit by selling EP with tons of PAO. Also, I wouldn’t use it if I thought it couldn't go the distance. Mobil isn’t dumb they know how to make excellent oil and lots of profit too.
Originally Posted By: Neil_A
Safe to say 50+ % III.
Just curious as to why you would say this, as last time I was really paying attention people were guesstimating that it was around 40% III. Not that it really matters, as UOA's show M1 EP to give stellar results.
Safe to say is like anything else posted on here about any oils formulation. No one tells us exactly how much or what percentage. They have reformulated several times and they didn’t post a record 45.2 billion dollars worth of profit by selling EP with tons of PAO. Also, I wouldn’t use it if I thought it couldn't go the distance. Mobil isn’t dumb they know how to make excellent oil and lots of profit too.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
I see no need for the EP. I've used the regular M1 for years and cannot see the benefit of paying more for EP. M1 will easily handle 10k changes, which I think is the max one should go anyhow but naturally this is just my opinion.
They have changed the "regular" formula in recent years and the stuff you used to buy that was superior is now the "Extended Performance" labeled stuff.
Sorry but you are wasting your money using the regular (non-EP) stuff IMO, and might as well use Pennzoil Platinum because it is a better oil and cheaper than M1's "regular" stuff, or else spend the extra and get the "Extended Performance" stuff you used to use.
Ask any of the M1 guys here...
I see no need for the EP. I've used the regular M1 for years and cannot see the benefit of paying more for EP. M1 will easily handle 10k changes, which I think is the max one should go anyhow but naturally this is just my opinion.
They have changed the "regular" formula in recent years and the stuff you used to buy that was superior is now the "Extended Performance" labeled stuff.
Sorry but you are wasting your money using the regular (non-EP) stuff IMO, and might as well use Pennzoil Platinum because it is a better oil and cheaper than M1's "regular" stuff, or else spend the extra and get the "Extended Performance" stuff you used to use.
Ask any of the M1 guys here...
It's good for 5-7K Miles OCI's and will hold up fine in all engines, but this site is about being "anal" about oil and if GMBoy wants to use what he has always used and go past 8K miles then "EP" is the oil to use as the regular formulation is much weaker than what it was in the past because they have moved the formula over to the "EP" line so to speak.
Creative marketing so they could charge more, and make people think it was a new fantastic product while at the same time saving money on a new budget line (regular) knowing that people wouldn't go much past their owners manual on that stuff. Sneaky if you ask me...
The point is not to fool yourself into thinking that M1 from say 5-6 years ago is the same as today because it isn't, but the stuff marketed as "EP" is the same (if not tweaked) as the old formula you used to get in the regular bottle.
The regular is still a great product, but it doesn't live up to it's older counterpart as it isn't the same product anymore.
Again ask the Die-hard M1 guys here...
Creative marketing so they could charge more, and make people think it was a new fantastic product while at the same time saving money on a new budget line (regular) knowing that people wouldn't go much past their owners manual on that stuff. Sneaky if you ask me...
The point is not to fool yourself into thinking that M1 from say 5-6 years ago is the same as today because it isn't, but the stuff marketed as "EP" is the same (if not tweaked) as the old formula you used to get in the regular bottle.
The regular is still a great product, but it doesn't live up to it's older counterpart as it isn't the same product anymore.
Again ask the Die-hard M1 guys here...
StevieC,
The regular M1 will still go 10,000 miles with no problems. A friend has a 2000 Taurus with 10,000 mile OCIs with reg. M1. He just turned 300,000 miles and the engine still runs great. I know others,including my sons Ranger with over 300,000 miles with higher than 10,000 mile OCIs, 15+, on reg. M1 and doing fine. Most of the reg M1 noise is BITOG stuff. StevieC, I'm not critizing you at all, but there is a perseption on BITOG that doesn't always back up real world experience. I have found the newer formulations as good as any I have ever used. That's just my experience.
The regular M1 will still go 10,000 miles with no problems. A friend has a 2000 Taurus with 10,000 mile OCIs with reg. M1. He just turned 300,000 miles and the engine still runs great. I know others,including my sons Ranger with over 300,000 miles with higher than 10,000 mile OCIs, 15+, on reg. M1 and doing fine. Most of the reg M1 noise is BITOG stuff. StevieC, I'm not critizing you at all, but there is a perseption on BITOG that doesn't always back up real world experience. I have found the newer formulations as good as any I have ever used. That's just my experience.
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Originally Posted By: tig1
StevieC,
The regular M1 will still go 10,000 miles with no problems. A friend has a 2000 Taurus with 10,000 mile OCIs with reg. M1. He just turned 300,000 miles and the engine still runs great. I know others,including my sons Ranger with over 300,000 miles with higher than 10,000 mile OCIs, 15+, on reg. M1 and doing fine. Most of the reg M1 noise is BITOG stuff. StevieC, I'm not critizing you at all, but there is a perseption on BITOG that doesn't always back up real world experience.
Tig I understand what you are saying... I too would have no quibbles about using the new regular stuff for as long as you described, the point was that people need to know that the regulars stuff from a few years ago is still available, but under a new name.
Either product is excellent, but if you are as anal as I am you want the best, and IMO the "EP" is the best regardless if you use it for extended OCI's or not because it's additive package is very stout compared to the weaker version which is now "regular".
Sure your Taurus example will show that it is possible to go 10K miles with the new regular stuff, but that is an "easy on oil" engine that is virtually indestructible anyways.
Give me a sludger engine and show me 10K on the new regular stuff, that will make me a believer. Because the EP stuff will hold up in these engines for that long. I have seen it!
StevieC,
The regular M1 will still go 10,000 miles with no problems. A friend has a 2000 Taurus with 10,000 mile OCIs with reg. M1. He just turned 300,000 miles and the engine still runs great. I know others,including my sons Ranger with over 300,000 miles with higher than 10,000 mile OCIs, 15+, on reg. M1 and doing fine. Most of the reg M1 noise is BITOG stuff. StevieC, I'm not critizing you at all, but there is a perseption on BITOG that doesn't always back up real world experience.
Tig I understand what you are saying... I too would have no quibbles about using the new regular stuff for as long as you described, the point was that people need to know that the regulars stuff from a few years ago is still available, but under a new name.
Either product is excellent, but if you are as anal as I am you want the best, and IMO the "EP" is the best regardless if you use it for extended OCI's or not because it's additive package is very stout compared to the weaker version which is now "regular".
Sure your Taurus example will show that it is possible to go 10K miles with the new regular stuff, but that is an "easy on oil" engine that is virtually indestructible anyways.
Give me a sludger engine and show me 10K on the new regular stuff, that will make me a believer. Because the EP stuff will hold up in these engines for that long. I have seen it!
No doubt M1 oils have changed. Notice I do use the EP, because I am anal as well about oil. I could go several thousand miles futher on EP but am happy with what I am doing. I did put the reg. M1 10-30 in my daughters 99 RX 300 with 10,000 mile OCIs and no sign of sludge as far as we could tell. At 85 thou she sold it to a friend and the car still is going. I remember she did say she told the new owner what oil was used. New owner seemed to be concerned about that.
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