mobil 1 causes leaks
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Originally Posted By: blackman777
I see this a lot on this forum but don't understand it. Why swap fluids if the one you're already-using (Redline D4) is working so fantastically. I always pick on fluid and then stick with it. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." That's why I'm wasting so much time researching VW oil. I will pick the best one for my new beetle, and then run it for the next 300,000 miles without alteration.
Because Red Line cracked down on their pricing so I can't get it from the place I normally use as nearly as cheap as I used to while I can get Amsoil at PC pricing. I'm equally confident in both products.
Quote:
As for the Redline C+, when I went to the allpar forums and told them I had used it, they immediately said that was a gigantic mistake. When I said the seals started leaking, they said that's what happens to every person that uses a non-Moper ATF. Switching back to Chryslers +4 fluid fixed the problem, but did not undo the damage to the torque converter (which my dealer said needs replaced). So the car was basically went from perfect running to undriveable thanks to my little Redline C+ experiment.
What seals started leaking?
I see this a lot on this forum but don't understand it. Why swap fluids if the one you're already-using (Redline D4) is working so fantastically. I always pick on fluid and then stick with it. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." That's why I'm wasting so much time researching VW oil. I will pick the best one for my new beetle, and then run it for the next 300,000 miles without alteration.
Because Red Line cracked down on their pricing so I can't get it from the place I normally use as nearly as cheap as I used to while I can get Amsoil at PC pricing. I'm equally confident in both products.
Quote:
As for the Redline C+, when I went to the allpar forums and told them I had used it, they immediately said that was a gigantic mistake. When I said the seals started leaking, they said that's what happens to every person that uses a non-Moper ATF. Switching back to Chryslers +4 fluid fixed the problem, but did not undo the damage to the torque converter (which my dealer said needs replaced). So the car was basically went from perfect running to undriveable thanks to my little Redline C+ experiment.
What seals started leaking?
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Network engineer
What on earth do you know about oils? You told me I'm not allowed to post to this forum, because you don't think I'm qualified. ("You're not a car mecahnic... just a lowly factory mechanic.") And yet.... you're not qualified either since you just setup networks. The gall.
And as far as I can tell Mobil 1 High Mileage is every bit as good as the straight M1 or M1 AFE. It carries all the same API and ACEA ratings as its parent. Perhaps you're right there's no reason to quit M1, but if your engine does start leaking oil, hy not give the M1 HM a try?
Actually, M1 HM (in 5w/30 at least) doesn't meet the same specs as regular M1 of AFE. HM is SL, not SM rated and GF3 instead of GF5. Not to say it isn't a fine oil, but it doesn't meet the specs for 2005 and later cars.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Network engineer
What on earth do you know about oils? You told me I'm not allowed to post to this forum, because you don't think I'm qualified. ("You're not a car mecahnic... just a lowly factory mechanic.") And yet.... you're not qualified either since you just setup networks. The gall.
And as far as I can tell Mobil 1 High Mileage is every bit as good as the straight M1 or M1 AFE. It carries all the same API and ACEA ratings as its parent. Perhaps you're right there's no reason to quit M1, but if your engine does start leaking oil, hy not give the M1 HM a try?
Actually, M1 HM (in 5w/30 at least) doesn't meet the same specs as regular M1 of AFE. HM is SL, not SM rated and GF3 instead of GF5. Not to say it isn't a fine oil, but it doesn't meet the specs for 2005 and later cars.
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Originally Posted By: blackman777
Originally Posted By: vtecboy
i switched to mobil 1 high mileage on october 2011. Then My valve cover gasket leaked within 1000 miles. Mobil 1 HM is supposed to seal leaks. That shiit failed me!
I didn't think seal conditioners worked on gaskets?
Seal conditioners generally should help prolong the life of rubber and rubber/cork gaskets. They will not help with paper or metal gaskets. Neither will they help with rubber or rubber/cork gaskets that have cracked.
Originally Posted By: vtecboy
i switched to mobil 1 high mileage on october 2011. Then My valve cover gasket leaked within 1000 miles. Mobil 1 HM is supposed to seal leaks. That shiit failed me!
I didn't think seal conditioners worked on gaskets?
Seal conditioners generally should help prolong the life of rubber and rubber/cork gaskets. They will not help with paper or metal gaskets. Neither will they help with rubber or rubber/cork gaskets that have cracked.
tig 1 & Overkill
I checked with my mechanic today and you gentlemen were correct concerning the oil sensor and I was wrong my apologies, thanks for your input even when criticized.
Toto.
I checked with my mechanic today and you gentlemen were correct concerning the oil sensor and I was wrong my apologies, thanks for your input even when criticized.
Toto.
Originally Posted By: Toto
tig 1 & Overkill
I checked with my mechanic today and you gentlemen were correct concerning the oil sensor and I was wrong my apologies, thanks for your input even when criticized.
Toto.
No problem. Glad to be of help.
tig 1 & Overkill
I checked with my mechanic today and you gentlemen were correct concerning the oil sensor and I was wrong my apologies, thanks for your input even when criticized.
Toto.
No problem. Glad to be of help.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Toto
tig 1 & Overkill
I checked with my mechanic today and you gentlemen were correct concerning the oil sensor and I was wrong my apologies, thanks for your input even when criticized.
Toto.
It takes a big man to admit when he's wrong, and the fact you took the time to come back and mention this speaks volumes as to your character sir
tig 1 & Overkill
I checked with my mechanic today and you gentlemen were correct concerning the oil sensor and I was wrong my apologies, thanks for your input even when criticized.
Toto.
It takes a big man to admit when he's wrong, and the fact you took the time to come back and mention this speaks volumes as to your character sir
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Originally Posted By: vtecboy
i switched to mobil 1 high mileage on october 2011. Then My valve cover gasket leaked within 1000 miles. Mobil 1 HM is supposed to seal leaks. That shiit failed me!
I didn't think seal conditioners worked on gaskets?
Seal conditioners generally should help prolong the life of rubber and rubber/cork gaskets. They will not help with paper or metal gaskets. Neither will they help with rubber or rubber/cork gaskets that have cracked.
Probably only the hardened not damaged Nitrile seals have half a chance of being helped by swellers/conditioners, cork and paper tends to degrade and just get soggy.
Modern seal materials found in most modern engines and drive train components e.g Polyacrylate, Simriz, Viton, Silicone, etc are purposely resistant to to these sorts of chemicals anyway.
You might as well take a whiz on it for all the good HM oil will do on these materials although it wont do them any harm either.
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Originally Posted By: vtecboy
i switched to mobil 1 high mileage on october 2011. Then My valve cover gasket leaked within 1000 miles. Mobil 1 HM is supposed to seal leaks. That shiit failed me!
I didn't think seal conditioners worked on gaskets?
Seal conditioners generally should help prolong the life of rubber and rubber/cork gaskets. They will not help with paper or metal gaskets. Neither will they help with rubber or rubber/cork gaskets that have cracked.
Probably only the hardened not damaged Nitrile seals have half a chance of being helped by swellers/conditioners, cork and paper tends to degrade and just get soggy.
Modern seal materials found in most modern engines and drive train components e.g Polyacrylate, Simriz, Viton, Silicone, etc are purposely resistant to to these sorts of chemicals anyway.
You might as well take a whiz on it for all the good HM oil will do on these materials although it wont do them any harm either.
Originally Posted By: Toto
tig 1 & Overkill: I checked with my mechanic today and you gentlemen were correct concerning the oil sensor and I was wrong my apologies, thanks for your input even when criticized.
So there's no oil sensor?
If there was a sensor, I wonder how it would "measure" the oil and determine it's still good. Does it measures TBN? I don't see how that would be possible.
The two main reasons I would switch from M1 to M1 HM is (1) it's thicker and (2) it has more detergents to clean-out gunk. I'd rather use M1 HM than us M1+additves of questionable quality (like MMO or AutoRX).
tig 1 & Overkill: I checked with my mechanic today and you gentlemen were correct concerning the oil sensor and I was wrong my apologies, thanks for your input even when criticized.
So there's no oil sensor?
If there was a sensor, I wonder how it would "measure" the oil and determine it's still good. Does it measures TBN? I don't see how that would be possible.
The two main reasons I would switch from M1 to M1 HM is (1) it's thicker and (2) it has more detergents to clean-out gunk. I'd rather use M1 HM than us M1+additves of questionable quality (like MMO or AutoRX).
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Originally Posted By: vtecboy
i switched to mobil 1 high mileage on october 2011. Then My valve cover gasket leaked within 1000 miles. Mobil 1 HM is supposed to seal leaks. That shiit failed me!
I didn't think seal conditioners worked on gaskets?
Seal conditioners generally should help prolong the life of rubber and rubber/cork gaskets. They will not help with paper or metal gaskets. Neither will they help with rubber or rubber/cork gaskets that have cracked.
Probably only the hardened not damaged Nitrile seals have half a chance of being helped by swellers/conditioners, cork and paper tends to degrade and just get soggy.
Modern seal materials found in most modern engines and drive train components e.g Polyacrylate, Simriz, Viton, Silicone, etc are purposely resistant to to these sorts of chemicals anyway.
You might as well take a whiz on it for all the good HM oil will do on these materials although it wont do them any harm either.
Given that most engine seals are RTV silicone, which as you say seems to be impervious to pretty much anything, HM oils should be ineffective in stopping most kinds of leaks. Yet users still report success and the marketing of HM products as leak stoppers/preventers continues. Curious.
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Originally Posted By: vtecboy
i switched to mobil 1 high mileage on october 2011. Then My valve cover gasket leaked within 1000 miles. Mobil 1 HM is supposed to seal leaks. That shiit failed me!
I didn't think seal conditioners worked on gaskets?
Seal conditioners generally should help prolong the life of rubber and rubber/cork gaskets. They will not help with paper or metal gaskets. Neither will they help with rubber or rubber/cork gaskets that have cracked.
Probably only the hardened not damaged Nitrile seals have half a chance of being helped by swellers/conditioners, cork and paper tends to degrade and just get soggy.
Modern seal materials found in most modern engines and drive train components e.g Polyacrylate, Simriz, Viton, Silicone, etc are purposely resistant to to these sorts of chemicals anyway.
You might as well take a whiz on it for all the good HM oil will do on these materials although it wont do them any harm either.
Given that most engine seals are RTV silicone, which as you say seems to be impervious to pretty much anything, HM oils should be ineffective in stopping most kinds of leaks. Yet users still report success and the marketing of HM products as leak stoppers/preventers continues. Curious.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: blackman777
Originally Posted By: Toto
tig 1 & Overkill: I checked with my mechanic today and you gentlemen were correct concerning the oil sensor and I was wrong my apologies, thanks for your input even when criticized.
So there's no oil sensor?
If there was a sensor, I wonder how it would "measure" the oil and determine it's still good. Does it measures TBN? I don't see how that would be possible.
The two main reasons I would switch from M1 to M1 HM is (1) it's thicker and (2) it has more detergents to clean-out gunk. I'd rather use M1 HM than us M1+additves of questionable quality (like MMO or AutoRX).
We weren't arguing about the presence of the oil sensor, it was about where/how the leak happened. He believed it was at the threads and thought the oil was the cause. Tig and I were stating that the sensor itself had failed, resulting in the leak. He was kind enough to post back that we were correct, meaning that it was the sensor itself that had failed.
This would be the oil PRESSURE sensor.
I believe there are only a few marques with any sort of oil "life" sensor, with BMW being one of them. It apparently measures metal in the oil and factors that into your conventional OLM algorithm to effectively determine OCI length.
Originally Posted By: Toto
tig 1 & Overkill: I checked with my mechanic today and you gentlemen were correct concerning the oil sensor and I was wrong my apologies, thanks for your input even when criticized.
So there's no oil sensor?
If there was a sensor, I wonder how it would "measure" the oil and determine it's still good. Does it measures TBN? I don't see how that would be possible.
The two main reasons I would switch from M1 to M1 HM is (1) it's thicker and (2) it has more detergents to clean-out gunk. I'd rather use M1 HM than us M1+additves of questionable quality (like MMO or AutoRX).
We weren't arguing about the presence of the oil sensor, it was about where/how the leak happened. He believed it was at the threads and thought the oil was the cause. Tig and I were stating that the sensor itself had failed, resulting in the leak. He was kind enough to post back that we were correct, meaning that it was the sensor itself that had failed.
This would be the oil PRESSURE sensor.
I believe there are only a few marques with any sort of oil "life" sensor, with BMW being one of them. It apparently measures metal in the oil and factors that into your conventional OLM algorithm to effectively determine OCI length.
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