Mobil 1 40wt oils..

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I know there was a discussion on the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w40 but that was for diesel applications. Has anyone ever used this in gasoline engines? ...compared to their other 40wts: 0w-40 and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40.
 
I think my first question is why are you using a 40w in your hyundai? I know its a turbo, but is it a recommendation from Hyundai to use a 40w?

Nothing wrong with the M1 40w's everyone will say their opinion, but the question is do you "need" it in the first place?

Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I think my first question is why are you using a 40w in your hyundai? I know its a turbo, but is it a recommendation from Hyundai to use a 40w?

Nothing wrong with the M1 40w's everyone will say their opinion, but the question is do you "need" it in the first place?

Jeff

Yes. Hyundai recommends 5w-40 for turbo. IF not available, then 5w30 is fine. But since 5w-40 oils are available...
 
wow I find that so odd that Hyundai recommends a 40w while Mitsubishi Evo's OEM fill is a 30w. Well, if that is the case, I would consider using the Rotella T6 5w40 or just stay with the Mobil 1 0w40. That is an excellent choice, so why change?

Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: poiuy223
I know there was a discussion on the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w40 but that was for diesel applications. Has anyone ever used this in gasoline engines? ...compared to their other 40wts: 0w-40 and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40.

Look through the used oil analysis section - I think a few reports may have been posted in gasoline engines.

The number one issue with ESP oils is that they're low SAPs oils designed to protect DPF in modern diesels. Because of this, they have relatively low starting TBN which in combination with the gasoline quality in the US makes these oils not last very long when put in service. Why would you pay for an ESP oil if for the same amount of money you can get the non-ESP version which will be more capable of longer drain intervals?

In your application, I'd definitely choose Mobil 1 0w-40 over Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w40.
 
Ah, thanks for the input and info. I do agree, 0w-40 is already fine so there is no need to move/try the Mobil 1 ESP / Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 versions. I just wanted to see if there was another choice of 40wt that would be ideal. Currently, I'm waiting to finish out one more round of Mobil 1 0w-40. After that, I have 2 changes of Pennzoil Ultra 5w-40. Then after that, I'll be going through my T6 stash.
 
Originally Posted By: poiuy223
I just wanted to see if there was another choice of 40wt that would be ideal.

In addition to the ones you mentioned, there is also Syntec 5w-40, but I believe Mobil 1 0w-40 is a better product.

There is also Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5w-40, but I have never been able to find it anywhere (kind of like Pennzoil Ultra 5w-40 in that respect).
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: poiuy223
I just wanted to see if there was another choice of 40wt that would be ideal.

In addition to the ones you mentioned, there is also Syntec 5w-40, but I believe Mobil 1 0w-40 is a better product.

There is also Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5w-40, but I have never been able to find it anywhere (kind of like Pennzoil Ultra 5w-40 in that respect).

I did see the Syntec 5w-40, but after BP's dum-dum CEO last year, I hesitate to support the company...in any way.

Redline, RP, and Amsoil were taken off my list as those are generally considered more "expensive".

Valvoline Synpower 5w-40 seems as hard to find as Pennzoil Ultra...
 
When a turbocharger spins down after operating at full boost, it can take several minutes to come to a stop. While the engine is running and a full flow of oil is going to the turbocharger bearings, everything is well. Once you power off, those bearings are running hot with only the oil left in them after shutdown. If you were those bearings, would you want to have a 20 or 30 weight oil in you, or a 40 or 50 weight?
 
Originally Posted By: Roy Gutfinski
When a turbocharger spins down after operating at full boost, it can take several minutes to come to a stop. While the engine is running and a full flow of oil is going to the turbocharger bearings, everything is well. Once you power off, those bearings are running hot with only the oil left in them after shutdown. If you were those bearings, would you want to have a 20 or 30 weight oil in you, or a 40 or 50 weight?

AFAIK, because these are small turbines with little inertia and due to back pressure, turbo spin down takes just a couple of seconds, so by the time you park and shut off the ignition, it's not spinning any more.

However, turbo itself and the oil lines around it may be very hot. If the oil stops flowing and just sits in one place in those oil lines, it make coke. That is why synthetic is preferred in such applications. Just as long as the HT/HS is high enough, the oil should be fairly resistant to coking. Still a good idea to idle a little bit before switching off the engine after a spirited run.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Still a good idea to idle a little bit before switching off the engine after a spirited run.


+1, Always done this on all the Turbo Saabs Ive had/Have.

Also Depending on your brand you might have not only oilcooling but regular coolant running thru the turbo as well. Which certainly helps.
 
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While I understand what you guys are saying about turbo cool down time, you have to remember a couple of things.

1) The Turbo chargers now a days are not only oil cooled, but Water cooled as well, so they never really get Hot like they used to. You never see them Glowing Red. I mean, I have had my Evo on the dyno for 6 hrs at WOT and the turbo never got glowing red or anything close to that. Oil temps went up during this process though.

2) This is a stock Hyundai 2.0 that is basically a "de tuned" Lancer Evo X motor. This particualr Hyundai Motor shares many components with the Evo X 4B11T motor. If a 5w30 Synthetic is all the Evo X gets from OEM and it makes more power, and more boost than the Hyundai then a 40w is kinda overkill IMO for this car. BUT it is Direct Injected, and runs a much smaller oil cooler and Intercooler. Thus, Hyundai is possibly utilizing a 40w to make up for the lower cooling capacity? A good upgrade for this Hyundai if driven hard would be a Oil Cooler upgrade IMO.

I like the Sonata Turbo, I think its a great car. Making that much power out of a 2.0 while running 87 octane is astonishing. The Evo X still requires premium since it EFI not DFI type fuel system. According to my sources, the Evo X was going to go to direct ignition for emission reasons, but Mits just cut the Evo off all together and is discontinued in 2012. Downside to DFI is tough to find upgraded injectors to handle more power and is a hint to why the Evo X came with EFI, since its intent was for racing purposes.

Anyway, sorry to get off subject. Great Car, Should treat you good for many years to come.

Jeff
 
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