Yeah, I though more detergent is better...up to a point of course.
Mobil 1 10W-40
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I don't think you have to worry. Mobil 1 is good enough. There is no proof that it's a bad oil and there is no proof that it's any better than a lot of other oils. And I don't think you have to worry much about the difference between 5w-30 and 10w-30 except when it gets really cold. In Los Angles we've seen cold on the TV and experienced cold snaps that have taken the temperature down into the 40's but nothing that would make much difference in our choices of viscoity. 5w-30 is just fine, even the occasional sking trip, but if you don't need a broken leg you can just go to the beach, instead and Mobil 1 10w-40 can handle that, too.
So slight thread jack here - on this 10w30 vs 10w40 issue - I have a 98 Sienna with 134k miles. It (according to the mechanics) has a VERY clean engine (been strictly on M1 since I bought it with 62k - 8k OCIs, though I'm going up to 10k to 12k henceforth assuming good UOA) - however, it consumes about one qt in 1300 miles or so. Which at almost $7/qt for M1 EP, I'd like to slow that a bit. So I'm considering starting to top off with M1 0w40 and then switch to 0w40 at the next OCI. Two questions - 1) will this slow my consumption? 2) since the Sienna engine is apparently in excellent shape, and since Toyota recommends 5w30 - could I have any tolerance issues with oil not getting where it's suppose to get? (and a quicky third question - will there be much impact on gas mileage with the 40wt?). Thanks for any input!!
Interesting problem. Following 10k oci's, you would add 7.7 quarts of new oil. Assuming your sump is 4 quarts, you are effectively changing your oil 2 xtra times in a 10k oci period. Is the oil even dark or black at 10k miles? With consumption that high you might be better off using a good dino oil. I'll be interested to hear what others say.
As a point of comparison, I add 5 quarts of M1 to my Cavalier 2.4 with a 4.5 qt sump. After 10k miles the level is still above full.
PS - At Walmart M1EP is $27 per 5 quarts.
As a point of comparison, I add 5 quarts of M1 to my Cavalier 2.4 with a 4.5 qt sump. After 10k miles the level is still above full.
PS - At Walmart M1EP is $27 per 5 quarts.
It's a 5 qt sump. Oil goes dark amber around 4.5k miles. True black (or close to it) close to 8k (I chged it last time at 9k, and it was some pretty nasty looking stuff - visual, no OCI, I'm doing one this time).
I can get that price if I buy the 5qt jug - but for top offs I use the Qts, which are $6+.
I've thought about group III, but the 1998 thru 2001 Sienna engines have achieved infamy for their sludge issues. So I'm nervous there.
I can get that price if I buy the 5qt jug - but for top offs I use the Qts, which are $6+.
I've thought about group III, but the 1998 thru 2001 Sienna engines have achieved infamy for their sludge issues. So I'm nervous there.
One bit of clarification - that 1300 is an average. It burns about 1 Qt in the first 1000 miles. After that it's close to 2000 before it needs a Qt. Strange stuff. So perhaps 1500 is a better average.
So, I have 10k on this oci now and I just got back from WM where I bought a 5 quart jug ($23.62) of M1 10w-40 High Mileage for my Cavalier DOHC with 146k miles on the odometer. I have been using M1 10w-30 for the last 50k miles. I look forward to running the 10w-40 M1 - maybe I'll be able to feel a difference of some sort.
I think I am going to to run it in my '02 Ford Explorer the next time I change that one.
I wonder if this oil is going to prove to be better than the M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40?
I think I am going to to run it in my '02 Ford Explorer the next time I change that one.
I wonder if this oil is going to prove to be better than the M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40?
Getting ready for my 10k oci and saw Walmart has this oil on sell for $19.50. The 10w-40 worked fine btw.
Any opinions about using M1 10w40HM in a vehicle with LOW milage??
(at least the engine anyways..)
My Bronco 2, has a rebuilt -w- about 15,000 or so miles on it.
And the builder suggested staying with 10w40.
Would the HM package do anything to a newer motor???
(at least the engine anyways..)
My Bronco 2, has a rebuilt -w- about 15,000 or so miles on it.
And the builder suggested staying with 10w40.
Would the HM package do anything to a newer motor???
What does a new motor spec for your engine. Thicker is not always better. If you look at the specs http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.asp the 10w-30 weight has better ratings.
So...I've been doing 10k OCI's for awhile now and all is good. Ran it through the winter and summer. I guess I'll stick with it.
I saw this oil as well when in Wal-Mart looking for M1 10W-30 High Mileage. I almost bought it, because they had the 10W-40 HM in the 5Q jugs, but the 10W-30 HM was only in 1Q (in this store, at least).
PS: any comments on the below thread, for those who haven't read it? (see page 3). Now I'm wondering if I should have bought the 10W-40 HM. Thanks.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1173061/
PS: any comments on the below thread, for those who haven't read it? (see page 3). Now I'm wondering if I should have bought the 10W-40 HM. Thanks.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/1173061/
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I talked with M 1 tech services about this oil and 10W-30 HM oils. Basically, they have higher ZDDP, higher antioxidents, higher detergents, and higher seal conditioners. I can't remember for sure but I think he also said they had higher moly and boron. Anyway, I went with the 10W-30 for my specific application.
The W number indicates the cold cranking at -25 and the cold pumping at -30. Whether it be a 10W-10, 20, 30, 40, 50, the cranking and pumping viscosity will be the same. The second number indicates the cSt viscosity at 100C (212F) Both a 30 grade and a 40 grade could have a 100C cSt of 12.5 as there is an overlap. It is possible that the same oil could be marketed/labeled as either a 30 or a 40! I HAVE BEEN TOLD that folk who market a 40 as a 30 will mark the 30 as a 100C cSt of 12.4.
The W number indicates the cold cranking at -25 and the cold pumping at -30. Whether it be a 10W-10, 20, 30, 40, 50, the cranking and pumping viscosity will be the same. The second number indicates the cSt viscosity at 100C (212F) Both a 30 grade and a 40 grade could have a 100C cSt of 12.5 as there is an overlap. It is possible that the same oil could be marketed/labeled as either a 30 or a 40! I HAVE BEEN TOLD that folk who market a 40 as a 30 will mark the 30 as a 100C cSt of 12.4.
and burning 1 qt in 1500 miles is considered an engine in good shape???
I'd put the cheapest SL/SM oil I could find in that beast-might as well be shredding your money using M1 in it
I'd put the cheapest SL/SM oil I could find in that beast-might as well be shredding your money using M1 in it
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