mobil 1 10w-30 / 10,391 miles/ 2000 Toyota Tunrdra V8

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sky Jumper, Why the 2nd rinse with Chevron?

JohnBrowning, I was just cleaning my PCV valve the other day and noticed that the grommet was loose. I am going to get a new one of those. Could be the contamination problem I have been looking for.

Also, what is the minimum mileage I could sample my oil to check if I have the contamination under control?
 
Quote:

Why the 2nd rinse with Chevron?


Click to expand...


if you do have any build up in there it will take more than one rinse to get it out after the arx treatment. only one rinse might skew the UOA results on the next fill. use a cheap walmart oil filter for the rinse.

you should put at least 3k miles on the oil to get a meaningful sample. but just because it looks good at 3k doesn't mean you can leave it in until 20k. if you plan on extending the OCI out past 5k you should sample periodically to find the limit. then stick to that limit on subsequent OCIs, with a single sample at the end to keep an eye on things.
 
I agree with what sky jumper has posted (along with everyone else). The second Auto RX rinse phase is a good idea. Everything doesn't come out in the first rinse, and you would want a pristine engine to get another UOA for comparison.
I'd definitely cut the OCI down to 5000 miles or so until the high wear is figured out. I, too, think it is a lot to do with dirt ingestion. I gathered from your original post that you do frequent desert driving. Some of the sand is too small to get caught by your air filter, and can make its way through the engine. Some of it may also not show up in a UOA (IIRC, your silicon was high, but I don't think quite in proportion to your wear metals such as iron). With your driving environment, I definitely wouldn't skimp on the air filter. I personally run a Pure One air filter, and like it. (I would never run a K&N filter ever again. Mine gave elevated silicon, and you could actually see holes when held to the light). Others may have good suggestions for an air filter for your truck. I doubt you could go wrong with an OEM filter, either. Just make sure the entire intake tract is properly sealed. And I agree with the poster about checking the PCV valve grommet. Mine had torn before, and the valve didn't look like it seated right in it. About $5 later, and its good as new.
Anyways, just some thoughts. You've gotten some good advice on here. Your UOA for a normally extremely low wearing engine is not typical.

Dave
 
Everyone is complaining about the silicon and while high, I don't think it's high enough to cause this much elevation in Iron and to a lesser extent Aluminum. We've seen almost this much silicon on vehicles with K&N filters and not seen these results.

Seafoam. Why?
crushedcar.gif
My farmer friends seem to love it. I'd say leave that stuff for the next 50's tractor engine you're trying to clean up.

I also don't think running the cheapest filter you can find is a great idea with Auto-Rx. If it's really cleaning wouldn't you want to catch all that stuff with good filtration? I'd sure think so...
 
Quote:

I also don't think running the cheapest filter you can find is a great idea with Auto-Rx. If it's really cleaning wouldn't you want to catch all that stuff with good filtration? I'd sure think so...

Click to expand...


any oil filter will filter just fine for the rinse phase. if anything, the super efficient filters (e.g. pure one) will just clog from the lanolin wax esters and/or sludge and the filter will be in bypass anyway. now that you don't want.
 
For what it's worth, I used a Napa Gold for the clean phase and a Supertech for the rinse phase. I used them because they're larger than the rest of the filters for my car, with a good amount of filter media.
 
Quote:

Quote:

I also don't think running the cheapest filter you can find is a great idea with Auto-Rx. If it's really cleaning wouldn't you want to catch all that stuff with good filtration? I'd sure think so...

Click to expand...


any oil filter will filter just fine for the rinse phase. if anything, the super efficient filters (e.g. pure one) will just clog from the lanolin wax esters and/or sludge and the filter will be in bypass anyway. now that you don't want.

Click to expand...


I suppose it might depend on how sludged the engine is to start out. I've done Auto Rx treatments on three vehicles now and cut open every filter after the rinse. They didn't look at all like they were plugged and in bypass...
 
I got my PCV Valve and rubber grommet today. Also checked and I have Toyota oil filters in the garage so I will use those for the rinses. For air filters I am going with Toyota on that also. Currently 1/2 way through the first rinse.
Do you guys think I should do a UOA on the 2nd rinse oil to see where I am at?
 
jsharp, are you saying you never found the telltale wax crystals in your rinse filters? you may be the only one - everyone else finds them clogging the filter (including me), lots of pics in the adds forum. I never found any sludge - just those pesky wax crystals.

a quick search of the adds forum will show that most bitogers avoid the high efficiency filters when using arx. a few have noted ticking lifters when using pure one w/ arx - the implication being flow is restricted too much, which makes sense.

2000lt - don't bother with a UOA on the 2nd rinse. the results will be skewed. just do a 2k rinse, put in the amsoil and sample 5k later. the toyo filter is fine, just kind of a waste for such a short OCI.
 
Quote:

jsharp, are you saying you never found the telltale wax crystals in your rinse filters? you may be the only one - everyone else finds them clogging the filter (including me), lots of pics in the adds forum. I never found any sludge - just those pesky wax crystals.

a quick search of the adds forum will show that most bitogers avoid the high efficiency filters when using arx. a few have noted ticking lifters when using pure one w/ arx - the implication being flow is restricted too much, which makes sense.

2000lt - don't bother with a UOA on the 2nd rinse. the results will be skewed. just do a 2k rinse, put in the amsoil and sample 5k later. the toyo filter is fine, just kind of a waste for such a short OCI.

Click to expand...


Nope, no wax crystals. One vehicle had a small amount of dark gray "mud" in the filter but not nearly enough to clog the filter. The other two looked like normal filters that had been used a few thousand miles. Who knows, maybe I had generally clean engines to start out...
 
Ok,

Step 1, Replaced my PCV Valve and Rubber Grommet. Old grommet was hardened and hard to remove. Immediate firmer brake pedal indicates I had some kind of leak there. Should improve my next oil analysis.

Also, is it ok to change the companies for analysis when you are doing this kind of stuff? OAI seems to give you the TBN included in the price.
 
TBN ? you could have a TBN of 10 , does it really matter though if the oil is full of sand, or iron or aluminum?

My truck has an automatic oil degrade detection system, it normally triggers well before 5,000 mile
 
Ok Ok here we go again. I just got another analysis done. I wanted to keep this thread going so we could get some history.

Make/Model: Toyota 4.7L V-8 (2UZ-FE)
2000 Tundra
Report date: 2/18/2008
Oil: Amsoil ASL 5W-30, no makeup oil added
Filter: Amsoil EAO
Miles on truck: 158,582
Miles on oil: 9,698

Blackstone Comments:

We think you could run this oil a little longer. Copper was above average, which shows excess wear at a brass/bronze part, such as a bushing. As all other wear looks good and has improved so much we aren't too worried about it. Try running this oil another 2,000 miles and check back to monitor. No harmful contaminants were found, though the viscosity was slightly high. This doesn't appear to be a problem and doesn't warrant changing this oil. The TBN read 2.0 so you had some, but not much, active additive
remaining. 1.0 is low. Nice improvement!

Sample date 2/11/08 10/22/05
Miles on oil 9,698 10,391
Miles on unit 158,582 113,967
Aluminum 2 17
Chromium 0 3
Iron 6 122
Copper 9 19
Lead 0 6
Tin 0 2
Molybdenum 67 67
Nickel 1 1
Manganese 0 0
Silver 0 0
Titanium 0 0
Potassium 0 2
Boron 46 43
Silicon 18 27
Sodium 8 12
Calcium 3345 2124
Magnesium 13 17
Phosphorus 642 574
Zinc 802 712
Barium 0 0
SUS Viscosity@210 deg f 64.1 64.8
cST Viscosity@100 deg c 11.37 11.55
Flashpoint in deg f 425 395
Fuel% Antifreeze% 0 0
Water% 0.0 0.0
Insolubles% 0.3 0.3
TBN 2.0 1.9
 
SSSIIIIGGGHHH!!! Much better! This is how it's supposed to look! Looks like your PCV grommet was the problem. Congratulations, and nice work. ekpolk/Drew99GT were on it.

Looks like ASL every 10k would be a great plan.

Lots of good lessons here for reading UOA's/problem resolution. Thank you all for sharing. This is what makes BITOG great.

This thread is a perfect example of why I do UOA's.


REDDOG
 
per terry dyson, M1 sucks lol.. keep your air filter clean bubba. change every 10k miles per terry dyson also. esp since you live where you live
 
Last edited:
Do you guys think I could get similar results with Rotella 5w-40 and the toyota filter? What about Rotella and the EAO filter?

Thanks,

Ken
 
my focus has almost 8k on M1 but it looks like i can go another thousand miles if i want to
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

D
2008 BMW M3 170k mi; BMW TwinPower Turbo 10W-60, 4.7k mi
Replies
3
Views
208
d00df00d
racer12306
2019 Ram 1500 Classic 5.7L - HPL PCEO 5w-30, 8.6k mi
Replies
4
Views
181
fantastic
K
High Lead in 1.8T stroker Motor 25k mi; Redline 5w-40 5k mi
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
Kevin C
wwillson
Dodge Durango 3.6L - HPL CK-4 5w-20 - 16,232 miles on oil - 190,400 miles total
Replies
14
Views
919
wwillson
D
2012 Mazda5 (2.5L), Liqui Moly Special Tec AA 0W-20, 6010 mi
Replies
2
Views
568
fantastic
Back
Top Bottom