mobil 1 10w-30 / 10,391 miles/ 2000 Toyota Tunrdra V8

[2000ltdken]

Here is my oil analysis from Blackstone

EQUIPMENT MAKE: TOYOTA
EQUIPMENT MODEL: 4.7L V-8 (2UZ-FE)
FUEL TYPE:GASOLINE (UNLEADED)
OIL USE INTERVAL: 10,391 MILES
OIL TYPE AND GRADE: MOBIL 1 10W-30 (GAS)
MAKE-UP OIL ADDED: 0 QTS

THE PUROLATOR FILTER DID A GOOD JOB FOR YOU, AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE LOW INSOLUBLES LEVEL. THAT AREA IS FINE. BUT WEAR WAS HIGH FROM THE LONG OIL CHANGE. WE CAN'T SAY FOR SURE THAT YOUR TOYOTA ENGING DOESN'T HAVE A PROBLEM -- WE CAN'T TELL IF THESE METALS ARE ACCUMULATED, FROM THE LONG OIL CHANGE, OR FROM POORLY WEARING PARTS. ALUMINUM AND IRON TEND TO SHOW PISTON SCUFFING, WHILE COPPER COMES FROM BRONZE/BRASS PARTS. SILICON MAY SHOW ABRASIVE DIRT GETTING PAST THE AIR FILTER, SO CHECK THAT (THAT WOULD CAUSE HIGH WEAR). THE TBN WAS 1.9, LOW. TRY 5000 MILES.

MILES ON OIL: 10,391
MILES ON UNIT: 113,967
SAMPLE DATE: 10/22/2005

ELEMENTS IN PPM UNIVERSAL AVERAGES

ALUMINUM: 17 2
CHROMIUM: 3 0
IRON: 122 7
COPPER: 19 7
LEAD: 6 3
TIN: 2 1
MOLYBDENUM: 67 52
NICKEL: 1 0
MANGANESE: 0 0
SILVER: 0 0
TITANIUM: 0 0
POTASSIUM: 2 1
BORON: 43 64
SILICON: 27 17
SODIUM: 12 7
CALCIUM: 2124 2284
MAGNESIUM: 17 161
PHOSPHORUS: 574 722
ZINC: 712 722
BARIUM: 0 0

SUS VISCOSITY @ 210 DEG.
SHOULD BE 59-68, IS 64.8

FLASHPOINT IN DEG. F
SHOULD BE >365 , IS 395

FUEL %
SHOULD BE < 2.0, IS
ANTIFREEZE %
SHOULD BE 0, IS 0

WATER %
SHOULD BE
INSOLUBLES
SHOULD BE

My driving style is hard. I commute 8 miles each way to work in heavy traffic and tow my trailer to the desert about a dozen times a year. At around 100k miles I did an AutoRX treatment. I did use a copper crush washer during the last oil run instead of the fiber washer that I am supposed to use. Could this have affected anything?

What do you guys think about this. I am concerned about my motor. This is the first oil analysis I have ever done.

Ken

 

[Drew99GT]

Looks like dirt ingestion. Crush washer vs. copper wouldn't affect the results. Definetally check the induction system for tight clamps/proper alignment and connection of components. Usually the 4.7 Toyotas put out about the lowest wear we see.

 

[surfstar]

i think that the OCI is too long given the harder driving requirements of traffic and especially towing in hot weather. i still bet that you'd get 200k miles at this interval anyways.

 

[ekpolk]

OMG, I almost fell out of my chair. As I clicked on the link, I was thinking, "well here we go with another perfect Toyota V-8 UOA." Of course, I usually take special pleasure in reading these since we've got a Sequoia with the same engine (which has generated its own perfect Toyota V-8 UOA, several times over). Well, finally we see a 2UZ with a problem.

I don't think that generally this OCI is too long. Usually, the 2UZ is barely beginning to register any wear metal at this point. With a 1.9 TBN, he's getting there, but not yet; minus the dirt, this oil could go longer. On the other hand, with this much dirt getting in, and with the resulting metals, I too would be concerned. The remedy here is not shorter OCI, it's fixing what's causing the contamination. Check your induction system carefully, sooner rather than later!

By way of contrast, here is the last UOA from our Sequoia. This oil also went 10k miles, and over 13 months. It's GC, but as you can see, plenty of life left. Also note the column showing an earlier M1 5W-30 UOA. Nothing like this one.

Good luck, and please let us know what you find.

 

[drums57]

2000: This is one of the finest V8 on the planet dont abuse by trying to go over 10,000 on a marginal oil, change the oil and filter and go with HAVOLINE 10w30 all year long. Go with 5,000 drains and submit another sample, and see were you are wear wise.

 

[ekpolk]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Triple_Se7en:
ekpolk

You are making an unfair comparison. Remove the LC you're using for two OCIs... then post a GC 10K analysis for a more proper comparison.

There's no mention in this thread of the poster using Mobil-1 EP. A couple of dollars more spent may have avoided this subpar UOA.

---

I respectfully disagree. It's not a matter of "fair" or "unfair," it's a matter of results. Of course, in reading my post, I guess I should have indicated GC+LC, vice just GC. That said, the results simply show that 10k with the right oil (supplemented or not) is easily within reach with this engine.

Also, if you want a more apples-to-apples comparison, look at my earlier M1 results in the same table at the same link. That 5w-30, SL Mobil-1 was also easily capable of more than 10k miles (had plenty of TBN remaining, very low wear, etc.), and could probably have done the 15k Mobil is now bragging on for the EP product.

M1 EP might be a good choice too. I didn't really think about it, as I've got no experience with it. Again, however, oil endurance is not the problem here, elevated dirt (Si) and astronomical (for this engine) iron are. Once this engine is clean and getting clean air, 10k will be a cakewalk. The 15k Mobil advertises is probably easily reached as well, given that this may be the easiest-on-oil engine we've seen in our UOAs. Decent dino, like Havo, would be fine too, if kept within its life limits.

 

[Drew99GT]

This is one analysis where I would consult with Terry Dyson.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

ekpolk

You are making an unfair comparison. Remove the LC you're using for two OCIs... then post a GC 10K analysis for a more proper comparison.

There's no mention in this thread of the poster using Mobil-1 EP. A couple of dollars more spent may have avoided this subpar UOA.

 

[unDummy]

Towing/short trips/hard driving/traffic require a more frequent OCI even if TBN is acceptable.
Stick with a 5k OCI with your current oil or other synth oil.

Has all/any other maintenance been performed?
What oil filter PN are you using?
Does that year have the wateril cooler?

 

[2000ltdken]

Funny thing you mention oil filter. I thought I bought a Purolator Pure One but when I opened the box someone had switched this to the cheapie Purolator. I wonder if it was used and cleaned up??? Anyway, this time I am using a Toyota oil filter. My air filter is a Toyota also. I am going to take a look at my intake system because I had it apart to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor. Also since new, my truck has on occasion made a high pitched whistle noise when shifting at high rpm. Now that I think about it, it may be a leak somewhere on the air side. To advise after I take a look.

Ken

 

[2000ltdken]

I also forgot to mention that I did a Seafoam treatment to my engine before I did this oil run. Could that be a problem?

 

[Tones]

2000ltdken

I would check around the airbox, but also check around the PCV valve. When I replaced mine last, the rubber grommet does not seem to hold it in there very well--its not a very tight fit. I am going to replace the rubber grommet with the PCV valve next time. Just a suggestion.

 

[2000ltdken]

I read this in another post -

EliteEtc.com: We've had a few reports that the wear metals in oil analysis increase immediately after converting to Elite. Is this due to the same phenomonon?

ExxonMobil: That's right, Lisa. This is usually a sign that Elite is suspending some sludge containing wear metals left by your previous oil. This usually returns to normal after the sludge has been solublized by Elite and removed from the engine.

The process takes only 2-3 drain intervals after which your wear metals will return to a more normal level, or even a bit lower due to Elite's superior anti-wear additive package.


Does anyone think this might be the case with my truck? My maintenance was like this:

New to 87000 miles - dino oil every 5k
87000 miles switch to Mobil 1 5w-30
90573 miles new filter, added 1 bottle Auto Rx
92771 miles oil and filter Chevron 5w-30 Dino for rinse phase Auto Rx
95000 miles new oil and filter Mobil 1 10w-30
103576 miles new oil and filter Mobil 1 10w-30
113967 miles new oil and filter Mobil 5w-40 TSUV
and send in oil sample to Blackstone and this is where we are at currently.

Input and opinions?

Thanks,

Ken

 

[TR3-2001SE]

You have been using an excellent synthetic for awhile. I don't think the oil is the problem. The Seafoam could definitly be the problem. Not sure how well this stuff works but it cleans the carbon deposits from your pistons and you know where it goes ie in the oil. Maybe someone who uses Seaform can give you an answer based on their UOA's. My 2cents is that it flushed a lot of ware metals loose.

 

[theguru]

I think given your driving environment that a lot of the problem is dirt ingestion. You need to solve this first, then you will be able to tell if the OCI is too long. Fix it, then test at 5,000 as suggested by blackstone.

You may also have to look at changing the air filter more often than the standard schedule.

 

[chinee]

This was certainly a surprise! And not a pleasant one. Never seen the Toyota 4.7 V8 throw results as bad as these. I suspect that the short trips and towing would have contributed significantly to the high relative wear, and also agree with polk that contamination may have something to do with it as well.

If I were you, there are two things I would do... search for an air leak, fix it, and perform another UOA at 7K or so. I assume you are still using M1 10W30? That is the oil I use with my Sequoia and it's good for long OCI's, 9000 miles with virtually no wear... and I do not use any fuel or oil additives.

Keep performing UOAs... I'm sure we're all interested in find outwhat will "cure" your situation.

 

[Tones]

Have to agree with theguru, the chromium and nickel could indicate wear on your rings which supports Blackstone's comments of piston scuffing due to dirt ingestion. Still doesn't explain the iron though. I would reduce your OCI until you figure it out.

 

[2000ltdken]

Hey Guys I am back. I need some input here.

Current situation:
147,000 miles, truck runs really well.
Just got done running 1500 miles with AutoRx
Currently in rinse phase with Chevron 5W-30
Toyota filter

I never did do another UOA so I want to find out where I am at. I purchased some Amsoil ASL 5W-30 synthetic and Amsoil EAo filter so I can run and extended oil change out to 1 year or about 20k miles for me.

My questions:
Should I run dino oils first and get a UOA?
Should I just put in the Amsoil and run a UOA at some mileage in the middle of my extended run?
Should I buy a oil extractor to get a better oil sample?
Anything else you could think of?

Thanks,

Ken

 

[sky jumper]

were it my truck, I'd run a 2nd rinse phase with the chevron dino, then put in your Amsoil and sample at 5k. with your driving conditions you should not go past 5k without sampling regardless of oil type, especially given your previous UOA. my guess is the Amsoil will not go anywhere near 20k.

I'd get the blackstone pump so you can pull a sample without draining the oil. pull the sample immediately after running the engine. insert the sample tube 1/2 inch deeper than the dipstick goes (I measure the dipstick length on the sample tube and mark it with a black marker). just be sure not to run into anything inside the oil pan. pull one 4oz sample, discard it without removing the sample tube (this gets rid of any crud you may have picked up in the dipstick tube), and then pull a 2nd sample to send in.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Get that dirt cintamination under control!!! I am not aq big fan of any OCI over 9 months long in this engine. I do not think the milage matters much in these engines as much as time the oil is in service. Seeing how you do mostly short trips followed by heavy towing in dusty desrt conditions I would not even entertain the idea of a 12 month oil change interval!