Mobil 1 0w20 AP, 4,277 Miles, Jeep JL 3.6

[IndyFan]

Here is the latest UOA on my JL Wrangler. I would have run it to 7k or more, depending on the OLM, but I changed it out to have fresh oil on a brutal week long rock crawling trip to western Colorado and Moab, UT. I'll keep the current oil (same oil and weight) for 5k to 7k miles. After the trip, I'm at about 13,500 miles. This run was also with a Fram Ultra filter. The air filter is the original. It is staying in there, for now, as I didn't encounter as much dust on the trails as I thought I would.

Comments and interpretation welcome. Fire away!

 

[IndyFan]

That photo came out hard to read. Try this...

 

[IndyFan]

Btw, the first UOA is factory fill, the 2nd is M1 EP 0w20, and then the AP.

 

[buster]

Everything is trending down so that is good.

 

[CharlieBauer]

Originally Posted by buster
Everything is trending down so that is good.


Including viscosity and flashpoint!

 

[zeng]

At 5-7k Oci, ordinary M1 0W20 would be adequate IMHO.

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by zeng
At 5-7k Oci, ordinary M1 0W20 would be adequate IMHO.


Agreed.

What a waste using AP for so short of an interval, especially in an engine known to be easy on oil.

Might as well use Amsoil SS for 3k.

 

[Greggy_D]

How was your trip?

 

[Artem]

Looks like your Copper is looking better then "universal average" for that engine, based on Blackstone's data.

Your short intervals helped to wash that nonsense out quickly. Nicely done.

It doesn't look like the Jeep is getting worked hard, so you could definitely run it longer but if it was me, I'd prefer fresh oil in there as well, like you did for your trip.

 

[buster]

The viscosity drop is ok. It's still a 20wt. It also resembles this chart.

 

[IndyFan]

Originally Posted by JLTD
Originally Posted by zeng
At 5-7k Oci, ordinary M1 0W20 would be adequate IMHO.


Agreed.

What a waste using AP for so short of an interval, especially in an engine known to be easy on oil.

Might as well use Amsoil SS for 3k.


I don't think it is a waste. It's long interval potential is an insurance policy. I'm not looking to barely meet the minimum performance required to save a few bucks. I like a wide safety margin. Anyway, I'll keep this run in there for at least 5k, and maybe longer. Ultimately, I'll get to 7,000+ changes, if the OLM allows it and the miles come quickly enough. Btw, I haven't seen regular M1 in 0w20 yet. They don't show it on their web site, so it is EP, AP, or AFE.

The flash point is indeed low and concerned me a bit, but the methods of determining that have been pretty well branded as inconsistent, at best. M1's published data on this oil (virgin) is one of the highest on the market for a 0w20, or other weights, for that matter, so who knows? Funny thing, Pennzoil Platinum's published data shows a much lower flash point, but the factory fill looked pretty good in that regard. I'm almost certain it was Pennzoil Platinum or at least Pennzoil Gold. It's enough to make you scratch your head and wonder, which supports the idea that the test produces inconsistent results.

I'll be curious to see the next run on the same oil and what viscosity looks like with at least 20% more miles on it. If I change it at 5k, it will be almost 3k of long highway runs at 75mph, and a few hundred miles of very slow crawling and off-roading. The last 2k or so will be mixed city/highway runs of about 20 to 30 miles, which is my typical driving that you see for the run on the oil in this UOA.

Air filtration will be interesting, too. Moab was very dusty. The air filter is the factory original. I'll keep it in there for at least the rest of the current run, so we'll test the belief that more dust in a filter makes it more efficient at least until saturated. I don't think it took in enough to saturate it, though.

 

[claluja]

Looking good! Nice trending down in wear numbers.

Guessing a bit of fuel dilution could be causing the downward trends in flashpoint and viscosity, but no need to worry about that at this point - just be aware of it. Also, the margin for error in determining flashpoint is huge, so take flashpoint values with a grain of salt. They say a good synthetic may be able to better withstand fuel dilution than dino, so good call there IMHO.

Note: research about fuel dilution on this site will cause you to ignore any alleged fuel dilution values provided by Blackstone. A lab that uses gas chromatography to measure fuel dilution according to astm standards should give you accurate values.

 

[IndyFan]

Originally Posted by Artem
Looks like your Copper is looking better then "universal average" for that engine, based on Blackstone's data.

Your short intervals helped to wash that nonsense out quickly. Nicely done.

It doesn't look like the Jeep is getting worked hard, so you could definitely run it longer but if it was me, I'd prefer fresh oil in there as well, like you did for your trip.


Thanks. It does see some occasional spirited driving, but as you say, not really worked hard. It has a manual transmission and it is a hoot to go through the gears and let it get some rpms. Since break-in, it has become a really free-revving engine. I put a Magnaflow axle-back exhaust on it and the sound is just music to my ears. It isn't like track racing, but more like touring when driving country roads. Mostly, though, it is driven fairly conservatively. I also towed a small fishing boat (1500lbs) a few times on this oil run. I'm really loving this engine.

 

[IndyFan]

Originally Posted by claluja
Looking good! Nice trending down in wear numbers.

Guessing a bit of fuel dilution could be causing the downward trends in flashpoint and viscosity, but no need to worry about that at this point - just be aware of it. They say a good synthetic may be able to better withstand fuel dilution than dino, so good call there IMHO.

Note: research about fuel dilution on this site will cause you to ignore any alleged fuel dilution values provided by Blackstone. A lab that uses gas chromatography to measure fuel dilution according to astm standards should give you accurate values.


Thanks. I run M1EP 5w30 in my Ecoboost and it gets some fuel dilution, but seems to handle it just fine with 10k OCI's. I figure the AP or EP can laugh off anything the Pentastar throws at it.

 

[claluja]

OP - do you have the 5 quart or 6 quart sump?

I've got a new 5 quart sump 3.6L, and would like to know if comparing apples to apples here. Thanks.

 

[IndyFan]

Originally Posted by claluja
OP - do you have the 5 quart or 6 quart sump?

I've got a new 5 quart sump 3.6L, and would like to know if comparing apples to apples here. Thanks.


It is the 5 quart sump, which means you've got the new gen 2 Pentastar, or Pentastar Upgrade. (PUG).

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by IndyFan
Originally Posted by JLTD
Originally Posted by zeng
At 5-7k Oci, ordinary M1 0W20 would be adequate IMHO.


Agreed.

What a waste using AP for so short of an interval, especially in an engine known to be easy on oil.

Might as well use Amsoil SS for 3k.


I don't think it is a waste. It's long interval potential is an insurance policy. I'm not looking to barely meet the minimum performance required to save a few bucks. I like a wide safety margin. Anyway, I'll keep this run in there for at least 5k, and maybe longer. Ultimately, I'll get to 7,000+ changes, if the OLM allows it and the miles come quickly enough. Btw, I haven't seen regular M1 in 0w20 yet. They don't show it on their web site, so it is EP, AP, or AFE.

...


Didn't mean to sound critical, just wondered why an oil lauded as a one-year/20k change would be used for so short a run. Appreciate the explanation!

 

[StevieC]

Good report and thanks for posting. These PentaStars are excellent engines that get better with some miles on them.