Mobil 1 0w20 + 0W40 = 0w-30?

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I just acquired a 2005 Nissan Altima that requires 5w30.
My oil stash is all Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20 & Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w20.
I assume blending one of them 50/50 with Mobil 1 0w-40 will give me 0w-30?
Any side effects doing this?
 
Originally Posted By: stchman
Just get a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 5w30 and be done with it.

I have 5 5quart jugs of 0w-20, which I would like to use part of it up.
 
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Just go to Walmart And/use a 10/30 For summer ever 3k and 5w30 via winter every 3k and ur car is good.
 
I also had leftover Mobil 1 0w-20 and combined this with Mobil 1 0w-40 in my parent's 2000 Mercury Villager (also a Nissan engine). It was nearly a 50/50 mix. Nothing has blown up yet.
 
Originally Posted By: anl0109
See if this helps. Not sure how accurate it is. Directionally it appears to be consistent with Phishin's post.
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Mixtures.html


Yes you need the Wildman viscosity calculator along with either the KV100 for both oils being mixed and plug them into the calculator to find the final viscosity.

AFE 0w20 is 8.7 cSt @100ºC
EP 5w20 is 8.6 cSt @100ºC
Mobil 1 0w40 is 13.5 cSt @100ºC

The range for a 30 grade is 9.3-12.49 cSt @100ºC so you'll need at least 20% Mobil 1 0W40 mixed with either one to be in the early 30 grade range of about 9.38 cSt @100ºC
 
Originally Posted By: cutlassvillager
Nothing has blown up yet.


Why is this statement increasingly being used to prove the efficacy of a practice, product or idea ?

Not against you personally, but it's the near universal statement of why something not optimal is OK/good.
 
That calculator tells me to use 48.72% 0w-20 with 51.28% 0w-40 to get 0w-30.
By buying one jug of 0w-40, I can get 2 oil changes by using up a jug that I already have on hand.
 
Yep, track down Mobil 1 5w-50 and put in a quart of that, the rest 0w-20. Or, you could get walmart or autoparts store's STP Oil Treatment and it will raise you up a grade viscosity.
 
Originally Posted By: KeithS_NW_Ohio
That calculator tells me to use 48.72% 0w-20 with 51.28% 0w-40 to get 0w-30.
By buying one jug of 0w-40, I can get 2 oil changes by using up a jug that I already have on hand.

I've done same for the last four changes using Mobil 1 5W-20 & 0W-40, got three qts of each to use and I'll be back to buyin' 5w30... No I've never figured the final, I figure 50/50 is close enough, one is a 5W20 vehicle anyway...

Originally Posted By: MrJhynx
Just go to Walmart And/use a 10/30 For summer ever 3k and 5w30 via winter every 3k and ur car is good.

Bah, that's 3x more often than I'm gonna change my Mobil 1...
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: cutlassvillager
Nothing has blown up yet.


Why is this statement increasingly being used to prove the efficacy of a practice, product or idea ?

Not against you personally, but it's the near universal statement of why something not optimal is OK/good.


Because no engine has suffered any damage due to the owner splitting viscosity hairs.
 
Originally Posted By: bvance554
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: cutlassvillager
Nothing has blown up yet.


Why is this statement increasingly being used to prove the efficacy of a practice, product or idea ?

Not against you personally, but it's the near universal statement of why something not optimal is OK/good.


Because no engine has suffered any damage due to the owner splitting viscosity hairs.


Also, it seems asking for/discussing "optimal" on here (not just about viscosity, but for using hard to find 'boutique' oils as well) is a no go on this site.

When everyone states to just use the cheapest, easiest to get non-synthetic out there, and then they tell you that your engine will outlast the unibody/rest of the car by 10x (at least!).
smirk.gif


So now it's a d***ed if you do, d***ed if you don't scenario on here?!?!?
confused2.gif


MAKE UP YOUR MINDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver

Also, it seems asking for/discussing "optimal" on here (not just about viscosity, but for using hard to find 'boutique' oils as well) is a no go on this site.

When everyone states to just use the cheapest, easiest to get non-synthetic out there, and then they tell you that your engine will outlast the unibody/rest of the car by 10x (at least!).
smirk.gif


So now it's a d***ed if you do, d***ed if you don't scenario on here?!?!?
confused2.gif


MAKE UP YOUR MINDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!


LOL I'm the opposite, going to buy a name brand, on the shelf synthetic and run it for at least a year... Saving $3 or $4 on dino that I'd change in 6 months is false economy in my book... Same for paying $10-$12 a Qt for the latest "fluff", I don't need it...

Here in SE VA rust is a non issue, bodies outlast the engines, dealers from up north come down her to get decent bodies to use all those extra engine they have laying around...
 
Originally Posted By: KeithS_NW_Ohio
That calculator tells me to use 48.72% 0w-20 with 51.28% 0w-40 to get 0w-30.
By buying one jug of 0w-40, I can get 2 oil changes by using up a jug that I already have on hand.


I am getting a different set of numbers.

Inputs:
First oil viscosity - 13.5 cSt
Second - 8.7
Desired - 10.0
Temp - 100 C
Result is 32.62% for first type of oil and 67.38 for second.

If you want "thicker" stuff, like Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 10w30 which I've used, then you'll need 64.5% of Mobil 1 0w-40. The "resired" oil is 11.5 cSt in this case.
 
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