Those aren't exactly tiny.
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
Maybe tiny sand particles. Check your air filtration and all connections very carefully please
Mobil 1 0W-40: Euro vs. U.S.
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Originally Posted By: Trav
The US version seems to have seems to have better cleaning abilities. From my experience what you are seeing are deposits, carbon junk and varnish.
Keep the filter changed and watch the oil turn reddish brown in time. IIRC this engine had some deposit issues, correct?
I wouldn't waste my money on a UOA of this stuff, its going to be high in almost everything. Any ppm of wear metals that were in the deposits is now being liquefied and will show up.
Originally Posted By: loneryder
Originally Posted By: Trav
The US version seems to have seems to have better cleaning abilities. From my experience what you are seeing are deposits, carbon junk and varnish.
Keep the filter changed and watch the oil turn reddish brown in time. IIRC this engine had some deposit issues, correct?
I wouldn't waste my money on a UOA of this stuff, its going to be high in almost everything. Any ppm of wear metals that were in the deposits is now being liquefied and will show up.
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
Maybe tiny sand particles. Check your air filtration and all connections very carefully please
Originally Posted By: Turk
Yes, is it sandy where you're at? Hopefully no one dumped sand in your engine!
Originally Posted By: tig1
I just called the Mobil tech and they assured me there is only one M1 0-40. I told him some say there is a different formulation in Euro for M1 0-40, vs US, and he again said there is only one 0-40. Same in Euro and the US. Could he be wrong? Possibly, but he seemed quite sure of this. I wonder if you checked your air filter?
This is rather peculiar to say the least - nothing has changed over the past 3 years other than COO.The cause of the deposits loosening recently is certainly a mystery worth investigating but I think what needs to be done about it is even more important. It's highly likely that those deposits are partially blocking the oil pickup screen, so at some point soon, the oil pan should be taken off and the pickup screen cleaned. Clean the pan too and spray carb cleaner on anything on the bottom end that has deposits on it. I'm sorry for your troubles.
Good advice there. Analines in fuels can polymerise to create these sort of deposits.
Do you use any aftermarket fuel additives ?
Originally Posted By: Lex94
The "New Life" is junk...USA M1 0w40 in cleaning the engine. You might want to change the oil and filter again soon using USA M1 0W40.
definitely cut open the oil filter and get some pics...
use a pipe cutter so you dont introduce a bunch of metal fragments
What are the odds that the OP has been sold some counterfeit brand names in the past? Are oil scams common in some parts of the world? Are there any previous UOAs that could confirm that the previous labels were genuine?
Originally Posted By: JAG
The cause of the deposits loosening recently is certainly a mystery worth investigating but I think what needs to be done about it is even more important. It's highly likely that those deposits are partially blocking the oil pickup screen, so at some point soon, the oil pan should be taken off and the pickup screen cleaned. Clean the pan too and spray carb cleaner on anything on the bottom end that has deposits on it. I'm sorry for your troubles.
Originally Posted By: bobbydavro
Good advice there. Analines in fuels can polymerise to create these sort of deposits.
Do you use any aftermarket fuel additives ?
Originally Posted By: GMorg
What are the odds that the OP has been sold some counterfeit brand names in the past? Are oil scams common in some parts of the world? Are there any previous UOAs that could confirm that the previous labels were genuine?
Sorry if I missed it. But what brand of oil filter are you using?
Originally Posted By: GMorg
What are the odds that the OP has been sold some counterfeit brand names in the past? Are oil scams common in some parts of the world? Are there any previous UOAs that could confirm that the previous labels were genuine?
Originally Posted By: BoostFiend
Sorry if I missed it. But what brand of oil filter are you using?
Originally Posted By: CentAmDL650
+1, the M1 0W-40 is cleaning up deposits left by the previous "M1 0W-40" in counterfeit container. Wonder how prevalent that is world wide?
It's bought from the regional dealer authorized by ExxonMobil at a cost of $15.36 a liter - the same dealer that supplies the Aston Martin, Porsche, AMG, McLaren, Bentley, Chevrolet and Nissan dealerships. Someone would be in a lot of serious trouble if they were selling "fake" Mobil 1 for misuse of the brand name alone, let alone supplying counterfeit oil to all those high end dealerships using the oil in engines costing tens of thousands of dollars.
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Someone would be in a lot of serious trouble if they were selling "fake" Mobil 1 for misuse of the brand name alone, let alone supplying counterfeit oil to all those high end dealerships using the oil in engines costing tens of thousands of dollars.
There are dishonest people who make their living by scamming unsuspecting customers. It's easier to do when there are less (or no) regulators to ensure customers are getting the genuine article. There is more potential for it with high end luxury products because there is more profit involved. Because quite a bit if money can be made counterfeiting, counterfeiters will sometimes make the investment to produce perfect duplicate labels and containers. Unfortunately a sad fact of life.
That said, what we don't know is the entire history of the engine in question. Is it possible that before you used M1 0W-40 you (or the previous owner) used a lesser grade of motor oil, especially a conventional in excessively hot desert conditions? A less probable theory would seem like: for the period of time that lesser oil was in use, it made deposits in the engine, and now, after changing to M1 0W-40 synthetic, those deposits were loosened by the previous three fills and are now (finally) freed up and circulating with the current fill. So if that's the case, it could be possible you received genuine M1 0W-40 every time.
But it just seems more likely that the 1st or 2nd fill of M1 0W-40 would have performed a significant amount of cleaning on the existing deposits and the results would have shown what you are seeing now on the dipstick.
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Would you, or anyone else for that matter claiming what I've used was fake, mind explaining how exactly this stuff is "counterfeit"?
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