Mobil 1 0w-30 in new Ford

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My brother bought a new 2010 Fusion with the 3.5 V6.

The factory calls for 5w-20. He wants to run Mobil 1 0w-30, he says it is the best of both worlds. Good flow and better protection. Compared to a 5w-20.

I told him just to run a 5w-20 for warranty purposes.

He drives about 20,000 miles a year. 60% highway and 40% city stop and go.

What do you guys think?
 
It's not the best of both worlds, if you compare the specs of M1 5-30 and 0-30, it's pretty much the same oil but with a slightly lower HTHS.

But, it will work fine, it will make him happy. It won't deliver the mileage of the 5-20, but who cares. He can still get a 10 dollar rebate on the 0-30 and he can't on the 5-20, that will more than makeup the difference.
 
I go along with you, especially so during the power train warranty. During the warranty period, the oil has to be changed too often for synthetic to make a difference. At the end of the 5 year/60,000 mile power train warranty I would consider running Mobil 1 0W20 or 0W30 and double the OCI.
 
Once the warranty is up you can easily go 10,000 mile OCI with M1 5-30 EP or longer. !0,000 mile OCI with regular M1.
 
I saw run what he wants! First 5W20 is a recommendation not a must. Second the only time the dealer would do a UOA would be if their was sludge present. Third if he does not tell them he use's 0W30 then they will never know. I used to buy a case of oil I did not want then take it back for a direct exchange for the same brand in a different weight. This way I had a receipt for the right oil! He makes payments ont his car which means it is his he intends to buy it! If it is his property he can do what he likes as long as what he does does not cause a mechanical failure that would then be repaired under warranty. M1 0W30 is not in any way going to cause a mechanical failure due to it flowing better then 5W20.

Now this does not mean that M1 0W30 is going to produce wear numbers any better then 5W20 but it will for sure flow better at cold start up in winter in PA then 5W20. I would take it a step further and run M1 0W40.
 
Thank you for the replys. My brother bought four 5 quart jugs of the Mobil 1 0w30 today at Walmart.

He told me he paid $22.00 per jug. He told me it was on sale, marked down from $26.00. I told him to look into rebates from Mobil.

All other Mobil 1 jugs were also $22.00.

He will use Motorcraft filters from my workplace.
 
Ford Motorcraft oil would leave no grey area if there was ever a warranty issue and it only costs $11.50 for a 5 qt jug at Wal-Mart.
 
Do what I did when my truck still had a warranty: Keep 2 different oil change records: One set of records you use to show the dealer in case you ever have to take the car there, and the other set of records is the real version of the stuff you actually did.

The dealer version shows you changing the oil every 5k miles with 5w-20.
The actual version shows you extending OCIs with 0w30 or whatever you actually do.

Don't forget to actually buy 5w-20 so you have receipts to show them. Use the 5w-20 in some other car or your lawnmower or something. Problem solved.
thumbsup2.gif
 
I do the same thing, only I use 0W20. For me having 2 cars calling for the same oil and filter makes things real easy!
 
Exactly! Mine calls for 5W20 I use 0W20. I have invoices for 5W20 in the event they decide to try and play hardball with me if a warranty issue should ever arise. Funny thing is I called Chrysler and was told specifically to use 5W20 ONLY! At that point I knew they were clueless and decided to go my route instead and keep the 5W20 invoices from the other car I run the 5W20 in.
 
I have a V6 4-Runner that calls for 5w30. There is a Service Bulletin from Toyota that says 5w20 is fine for my engine.

I run M1 0w30. It is the best oil I have ever poured in my rig and am very happy with it.

I have tried 5w20 YB....but very unhappy with it.

Love the M1 0w30!!!! great stuff.
 
Some cars like it some don't. I had better luck with PP 5W20, and Mobil 1 0w20, than M1 0w30. Comparing YB to Mobil 1 really isn't a fair comparison. I found comparing a synthetic to a dino oil, is like apples and lemons. Any time I switched from dino to synthetic I noticed the difference especially in colder weather. I use an pre-luber and synthetic oils flow through the pre-luber in a fraction of the time compared to a dino oil. As the weather gets even colder the difference in time to get oil flowing gets faster and faster for synthetic oil.

I tell people once they found an oil their engine runs well on stick to it. Since you can use either a 20 grade or a 30 grade stick with what works best. If you really want a fair test try Mobil 1 0W20 in place of YB 5W20 and see how that works for you. JMO
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Now this does not mean that M1 0W30 is going to produce wear numbers any better then 5W20 but it will for sure flow better at cold start up in winter in PA then 5W20. I would take it a step further and run M1 0W40.


M1 5w20 will flow better than M1 0w30 in a PA winter.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Now this does not mean that M1 0W30 is going to produce wear numbers any better then 5W20 but it will for sure flow better at cold start up in winter in PA then 5W20. I would take it a step further and run M1 0W40.


M1 5w20 will flow better than M1 0w30 in a PA winter.


It will, and their 0W20 should flow even better than the 5W20.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Now this does not mean that M1 0W30 is going to produce wear numbers any better then 5W20 but it will for sure flow better at cold start up in winter in PA then 5W20. I would take it a step further and run M1 0W40.


M1 5w20 will flow better than M1 0w30 in a PA winter.


Hmmm--if 0W30 flows like a straight 0 weight when very cold, and 5W20 flows like a straight 5 weight when cold, how can the 5 weight flow better than the 0 weight? Makes no sense.
 
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Now this does not mean that M1 0W30 is going to produce wear numbers any better then 5W20 but it will for sure flow better at cold start up in winter in PA then 5W20. I would take it a step further and run M1 0W40.


M1 5w20 will flow better than M1 0w30 in a PA winter.


Hmmm--if 0W30 flows like a straight 0 weight when very cold, and 5W20 flows like a straight 5 weight when cold, how can the 5 weight flow better than the 0 weight? Makes no sense.
It is the whole overall viscosity. A 5w-40 is usually thicker overall than a 5w-20 all things equal. You have to look at each oils numbers individually.
 
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