Mobil 1 0W-20; Mazda 6i; 5000 miles (from 1200 through 6200)

[Ashu]

Here's my first-ever UOA on my new Mazda 6i (the 4-cylinder variant, 2.3l).

PDF file of the UOA - 0W-20 on a new-ish M6i for 5000 miles

Background: Stock oil and filter dumped at 1200 miles. Replaced with Mobil 1 0W-20 Syn, and stock (Motorcraft/Ford/Mazda) filter (nothing else available!) Second oil change at 6200 miles, sample taken halfway through drain, from warm oil. Replaced with more Mobil 1 0W-20!

Blackstone Labs say it looks good.

Looking forward to the experts' perusal and comments. Wear materials are as expected. I'm curious as to why the Universal Average is SO different for this and the 6-cylinder engine in the Mazda 6s. Can anyone point me to some other Ford/Mazda 2.3l engine (some Rangers, Focus'es etc) UOAs and analyses? Thanks!

Also, any suggestions on possible replacemenet filters, and OCI? Is 5000 all the filter and oil can handle? I drive VERY hard, in my own opinion, and its 50-50 city-highway.

To my VERY untrained eye, nothing looks high or out of the ordinary. Minor concerns (would appreciate explanations/educated guesses!) about Calcium and Boron. I understand high Moly is a characteristic of newer oils, and (tested amounts of) Silicon, Copper and Lead are normal for a newly breaking in engine. Thanks!

 

[buster]

Mobil 1 does a great job with lead wear. I would say that the copper and iron are from break in. However, M1 has been suspect lately in producing higher then normal iron values. Silicon is high as well. Everything else looks really good. I'd continue with this oil and maybe switch to a 10w-30 in the summer months. I think M1 0w-20 and Pennzoil 5w-20 are good oils.

 

[Ashu]

FYI - so that maybe someone can suggest what (better) oil filters I may be able to use, here are a few pictures ... new and used. Also, let me know if in the experts' opinions, everything appears normal (visbly - if its possible to tell?

)

Filter sitting on the cartridge that comes out of the bottom of the engine pan:

Filter lifted up from the cartridge:

Filter compared to the brand new one that replaced it:

 

[Pablo]

You are correct, all is nominal. B and Ca are additives, so not to worry. Fe, PB and Cu should come down next change.

All in all, excellent.

 

[Spector]

Are you trying to say that the dark filter means that it has trapped a lot of dirt. If so I would have to disagree. Any oil if you run it for 500 miles or so through a filter will discolor the filter to look like yours. Now if you are saying that you see paticles in the filter then that is different. Color alone means nothing IMO

 

[Patman]

It's also interesting to note that this oil has thickened into 30wt territory.

 

[Jay]

Nice report for the Mazda. Mobil 1 is using higher levels of calcium lately as AW/FM. The filter is working well or your insolubles would be higher, but you're ruining those nice leather gloves.

 

[MikeySoft]

quote:

---

Originally posted by buster:
... I think M1 0w-20 and Pennzoil 5w-20 are good oils.

---

I agree but I would have expected M1 0w20 to be a lot better then the Pennzoil 5w20. Maybe when the engine has more miles on it.

 

[Last_Z]

Ashu,

Your report looks pretty good to me considering the miles and also that this engine just went through "Break In" with this oil.
What oil does the manual calls for? Are you from Nova Scotia? I would guess this engine calls for 5W-30 and that's what I'd run except for the very cold winter.

Patman,
I also notice this oil went into 30W zone. I wonder at what point this happenned? If it happenned early, what's the point of using thins oil when its cold and hot Vis. are going to be that of a 5W and 30W oil? Get my point?
Rick

 

[crossbow]

Both the Mazda 6i and Mazda6s specifically call for 5w-20 weight oil which fills the Ford WSS-M2C-153H specification.

(Recommendation is year round).

There are no TSB's recommending the use of heavier weight oils, or even ok'in their use.

(Yes I know it doesn't really matter if the manufacturer says yes or no to an oil weight, just pointing this out)

So far those who have tried 30wt oils have noticed a decrease in engine performance. Rev's are slower, the engine is less responsive...the car almost feels unhappy that you put heavier oil in it.

(This is even odder considering the the 0w-20 is just about as heavy viscosity wise as the 5w-30...but there is a definite difference between the two oils in driving the vehicle)

Oddly the only UOA on the Mazda6 with 30 wt oil actually showed significantly higher wear numbers then the 20wt's. Then of course this could all be due to different driving habits, as these were all inital UOA's.

My second UOA (Mazda6s) is coming up, with around 4,000 miles on the oil, and 35+ autox runs.

Be a definite test of the oil's durability under greater then normal stress situations.

[ November 05, 2003, 08:42 AM: Message edited by: crossbow ]

 

[mikep]

So the Mazda6 uses a catridge filter? Am I seeing and reading correctly? Does this filter sit up insiide the pan?

Also, any particular reason why you would choose to use M1 during break in since it is being drained in 5K intervals? Given the excellent UOA we've seen here from Motorcraft 5w-20 and Chevron Supreme/Havoline I'd think you could save a lot of $$ and still maintain excellent protection/performance from the oil during break in and warranty period.

As for OCI...I'm sure M1 can go longer than 5K miles but do you want to while still under warranty?

BTW...nice car! I test drove both the 6i and 6S a couple of weeks ago and was very impressed with both of them. The 6s is a rocket but the 6i four banger is certainly no slouch! Revs like a dream and is super responsive. I really wanted my wife to get the Mazda 6i but in the end she pulled the SUV trump card on me and ended up getting a Pathfinder. If it were me I actually think I'd opt for the 6i over the 6s.

Mikep

 

[drm7]

crossbow:
My wife has an '03 Mazda MPV. It has the same duratec V6 as the 6s (except for intake). I switched it at 8000 miles from 5w20 Motorcraft to 5w30 M1 SS. I also noticed a dramatic difference in the way the engine revved. It seemed sluggish and it doesn't start as easy cold. I thought this was odd since the M1 should be 'thin' and has low pumping point. I'm actually thinking about switching back. There is actually a TSB out that allows the use of 5w30 in the MPV. I'm thinking about trying the M1 0w20 next and see if it acts the same as the Motorcraft.

 

[unDummy]

So far all the parts stores can not get a replacement filter for the 6i 4cyl. There is nothing wrong with the Mazda one. I'm guessing that since the parts store have a PN for the purolator filter, it will show up soon. But, whether orings will be included is a hopeful guess. I'm just wondering about the rest of the oiling circuit/bypass/adbv..........

There is nothing wrong with this UOA. Your engine is still breaking in. Plus, you did not do any frequent "rinse" changes during the cars breakin. I expect the next UOA to only get better.
Don't worry about universal averages. Every engine/driver styles are different.
A better comparison would be to convince all the Mazda6 owners to take UOAs and post them here. Also, don't forget the Mazda6club forum.

 

[Ashu]

Wow - Greg (crossbow) told me to post here. You guys are a virtual cornucopia of information and knowledge!

Yeah - on the whole I think the oil is doing good.

I agree with the folks who question the advantage of under-warranty 5K OCI switch to M1. It is overkill. But I figure - can't hurt! Unless the stuff I hear about synth being 'inadequate' for break-in is NOT all crock

I wish more 6i ownbers would UOA and post here - we're trying to get them interested in UOAs. However, my thread at mazda6club has two respondents so far - corssbow and I

Also - I only posted the pics to see if people could 'recognize' the filter and suggest an aftermarket (better?) replacement. But it seems to be a well regarded filter. So (especially with my 5K or less OCI) I won't bother yet. In any case, I picked up what I thought was a decent deal on the filters and bought like a 3-pack last time around. That's nearly 8 months worth of filters

 

[Ashu]

Mikep - I hear ya on the Mazda 6 reviews

I went through the same thing, and by the time I piccked it, the ONLY cars in the running were the Mazda 6i manual (which I bought), the 6s manual (less tossable, heavier front end, less discounts, more gas usaage, less spunky engine down low) and the 6 speed Acura TSX (too drab feeling through spirited twisty roads, too insualted from road feel, too many molly-coddling features I didn't care to have in my first new car!)

The 6i manual rocks!

Aside - I learnt today that the valves are infinitely vairiable and ECU controlled. When I bought. I thought it was merely Mazda's first two-profile vairiable valve-timing engine. gets better and better

 

[crossbow]

Hey Mikep,

Thanks!

The 6s uses a spin on type filter (Motorcraft FL820-S), while the 6i is using the cartiage system.

The 6i is a pain in the *** to change the oil on, cause they put a giant dust shield over the entire oilpan/filter area. So before you can even access anything, you've got to undo 4-6 bolts just to access it.

Ashu and the other 6 owners posting UOA's are autocrossing heavily. Since this goes well above and beyond the normal driving habits of consumers, were sticking to as many synthetic fluids as possible to help counter balance the increased stress on engine and drivetrain components.

So far our wear numbers are looking pretty good for all the **** were throwing our cars through

.

 

[mikep]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Ashu:
Mikep - I hear ya on the Mazda 6 reviews

I went through the same thing, and by the time I piccked it, the ONLY cars in the running were the Mazda 6i manual (which I bought), the 6s manual (less tossable, heavier front end, less discounts, more gas usaage, less spunky engine down low) and the 6 speed Acura TSX (too drab feeling through spirited twisty roads, too insualted from road feel, too many molly-coddling features I didn't care to have in my first new car!)

The 6i manual rocks!

Aside - I learnt today that the valves are infinitely vairiable and ECU controlled. When I bought. I thought it was merely Mazda's first two-profile vairiable valve-timing engine. gets better and better

---

I'm with ya 100% on all the reasons to go for the 6i manual. I had a 6i with Security and Sport package all ready to be ordered. Performance white, nice car! Go figure that my wife wanted the Pathfinder instead

. Another mom driving around in an SUV...just what the world needs

Crossbow...understood re: the autocross and M1 choice. Makes sense to me. They must be a blast to autocross with!

Good luck with the cars guys. Drive it like you stole it

. (on the track only please

)

Mikep

 

[Al]

Like Pablo said-wait to see trends on the samples. Yours is fine (to me anyway)

 

[crossbow]

I try

.

The car's competitive in GS and STS. I actually run in FS just because there is less competition, and its funny to see a family sedan beat the F-body's and BMW's.

 

[joee12]

As a former 1996 Mazda 626 2.5 V6 owner, I love what Mazda did with the Mazda 6. Mazda was getting pretty drab after they dropped the Mx6, Mx3 and RX7. Then they made the 626 very frumpy and drab with the last body style. Their only fun cars were the Miata and Mazdaspeed Protege. It is nice to see them come out with the Mazda6 and RX-8 to really liven up the car line again. I really like the Mazda6i, but until the Explorer is paid off in 3 years

, it will be the Acura Integra for me

-Joe