MMO full oci?

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Right now the Jetta has .5 qrt of MMO and 4 qrts of GTX HM. The wife does put some pretty good miles on the car every week...about 300. I do check the oil every few weeks. Shes about 400 mile into the oci and so far it does seem alittle darker than normal.

I wish i jumped on the MMO bandwaggon before i bought 12 bottles of Auto Rx....oh well.


MMO will serve you well, and you'll have no problem running it the full OCI. I added a pint to my Ford 4.9L 6 qt sump which will stay in there ~600-800 miles. That will take me to my next OCI in early December. At that time I will run 5 qts PP 5w30 and 1 qt MMO for the full OCI.

Not to beat a dead horse but I like MMO during the winter months. I have family member who lives in the Adirondack mountains, and for years I would go up late January and spend a few days there. I've encountered -30F and colder, one year I had Mobil 1 5W30 in the sump and heard noises I never heard before when I fired up my 4.9L Ford. A year later under similar conditions I had the same oil and a qt of MMO in the sump, the difference was night and day. My cousin had the same oil, less the MMO in his sump parked next to me, and the noises coming from his engine were sickening. He became a MMO user after that.

 

[ARB1977]

Im temped to do a run in my Tacoma. I wonder how it would would do with GC. Ive always had synthetic since 9K and the top end looks pretty good from the fill hole...its making me wonder if i should drain a qrt of oil and replace a qrt with MMO.

 

[c3po]

My Mom's 1998 Chevrolet Monte Carlo has had a steady diet of Mobil 1 5W-30, my Dad put in about 12 ounces 500 miles before her oil change on the recommendation from his friend who was a mechanic, the oil came out dark when I changed the oil and the valvetrain is spotless, he is now running 10% of his oil volume on this OCI with MMO.

He told me the car is flat out more responsive, he is very happy with the way the engine is running.

MMO will mix with ANY kind of oil.

 

[Nik]

Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Im temped to do a run in my Tacoma. I wonder how it would would do with GC. Ive always had synthetic since 9K and the top end looks pretty good from the fill hole...its making me wonder if i should drain a qrt of oil and replace a qrt with MMO.


I just put 1 pint (I have about 1K on GC 0W30) of MMO, I extracted (dipstick tube, suction gun) the same amount of oil. Will see, plan is to run it through winter. Basically, my car takes about 4.4 L, so I am around 10% of MMO. If all goes OK, Rotella Syn 5W40 will go in (spring) with 10% MMO.

 

[ADFD1]

Originally Posted By: Nik
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Im temped to do a run in my Tacoma. I wonder how it would would do with GC. Ive always had synthetic since 9K and the top end looks pretty good from the fill hole...its making me wonder if i should drain a qrt of oil and replace a qrt with MMO.


I just put 1 pint (I have about 1K on GC 0W30) of MMO, I extracted (dipstick tube, suction gun) the same amount of oil. Will see, plan is to run it through winter. Basically, my car takes about 4.4 L, so I am around 10% of MMO. If all goes OK, Rotella Syn 5W40 will go in (spring) with 10% MMO.


Sounds like a plan, you could easily go a little higher in the MMO amount up to a qt, but a pint is a great starting point. Let us know how the car turns over when old man winter comes knocking!

 

[Nik]

I also did the same with my 2001 Pathfinder, 100k, right now I have Penzzoil HM 5W30, plan is to run 500 miles with 10% MMO, I am almost there, then goes 10% MMO with GC 0W30 for the winter.

For A4, I had terrible ticking with Rislone/Syntec 5W40, cold and hot engine, didn't matter, switched to GC, and up until I added 10% MMO, cold ticking was still present, and disappeared when the car was hot, all that for 1k. No major change when added 10% MMO, but I am 100 miles with MMO/GC now, I guess it takes time - that's why I plan to run it through winter and see if ticking goes away.

I am still not sure if tick is mechanical issue or sticky lifters issue. Both can be explained:
1. Tolerance changes as the engine gets hot (thermal expansion) and ticking goes away
2. Oil starts flowing better when engine gets hot, ticking goes away.

I am leaning towards 1) because I had crazy ticking all the time with Syntec 5W40/Rislone, I just couldn't stand it, so I dumped it after 1000 miles and went to GC.

 

[demarpaint]

Living in Canada running a full qt of MMO in a 5 qt sump won't be an issue, or with a smaller sump up the dose to 20%. Trust me it won't hurt a thing. The car will start up easier, and the MMO will clean things up. 10% for 500 miles really isn't giving the product a chance to work, especially if you have lifter noises. In an engine that is known to be clean then a pint for 500 miles will keep it clean.

 

[chevrofreak]

Are there any published numbers for MMO as far as viscosity at certain temperatures? I'd like to see how it compares to Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 at -35C.

 

[c3po]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Are there any published numbers for MMO as far as viscosity at certain temperatures? I'd like to see how it compares to Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 at -35C.


MMO has a Pour Point of -60 Degrees. I do not know about the viscosity, but I believe if you do not overdose the engine with MMO that the viscosity would not change.

 

[Nik]

It is either straight 5W or 5W20

 

[c3po]

Originally Posted By: Nik
It is either straight 5W or 5W20


I believe it is a straight 5W

 

[chevrofreak]

I'd still like to see some actual numbers. If they don't exist, then I think they need to test the product and publish them.

 

[demarpaint]

You can always contact them or visit their message board.

Here is what I dug up, I'm sure there's more info on the board. HTH

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The viscosity of the Marvel Mystery Oil is approximately a straight SAE 5 weight oil (ISO 10).

1. Marvel Mystery Oil is not a solvent in the traditional sense of the word. MMO is an oil mainly. It does contain some tradional solvent in order to thin the viscosity of the oil to approximately a straight weight oil. Also, it is not considered a detergent based oil in that it does not contain high base number sulfonates. MMO will provide cleaning action to the crankcase, but it does so by different chemistry than detergent oils.
2. MMO contains additional friction modifiers to prevent metal-to-metal contact. Therefore, it improves the motor oils friction redacting properties.
3. MMO has been tested with various seal material that is found in most automotive engines and power trains and is compatible with all of them.
4. As stated above, because to the additional friction modifiers and other ingredients in the Marvel Mystery Oil, using it does not degrade the motor oil but enhances it.

 

[Nik]

Rich Kelly is MMO's technical guy, explaining it here
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/forums/viewthread/198/

 

[demarpaint]

Hi Nik. That's where I copied and pasted some info from. I cleaned up some of the spelling a bit.

Chevrofreak Their message board is pretty good, search it if you like, and it will answer a lot of questions.

 

[Nik]

Right, sorry for double-posting.

 

[demarpaint]

Glad you posted a link! People can post MMO questions there if they want.

 

[RichR]

Gents,
I am running an ARX cycle in a sludger v6 Toyota.
And use it as a 3oz. dose in a 4.7 Toyota.
Would it be a good idea to use some as a mini flush for a few hundred miles before I change the oil?

 

[ADFD1]

A pint of MMO 1000 miles before an OCI has worked well for many people. People are doing it with A-rX treatments too. In the end all we want is a clean good running engine......Go for it!

 

[sw99]

I am at 4k w/ my MMO treatment (2qts MC5w20, 1qt Havoline 20w50 & 1qt MMO). I plan on going to 5k just for grins. Very curious to see the condition of the oil. Wish I could see into the engine to see what it looks like...