Mixing Redline with Conventional Oil
- Thread starter ZZman
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Hi.
There will be no problems in chemistry and no advantages gained. In fact, I believe that Redline oil is a synthetic oil which means it can extend your oil change intervals. Swapping in some Pennzoil will affect that advantages. For example, a 5 quart sump filled with Redline will probably allow you to extend your drainage interval, but a sump with 2 quarts of Redline oil and 3 quarts of Pennzoil Conventional oil will not allow that much of an extended draingage interval. Of course, it's also dependent on how you drive, where, and what you drive.
No problems, but no andvantages that I would be able to see. It won't hurt your car.
There will be no problems in chemistry and no advantages gained. In fact, I believe that Redline oil is a synthetic oil which means it can extend your oil change intervals. Swapping in some Pennzoil will affect that advantages. For example, a 5 quart sump filled with Redline will probably allow you to extend your drainage interval, but a sump with 2 quarts of Redline oil and 3 quarts of Pennzoil Conventional oil will not allow that much of an extended draingage interval. Of course, it's also dependent on how you drive, where, and what you drive.
No problems, but no andvantages that I would be able to see. It won't hurt your car.
Originally Posted By: ZZman
Money savings. Maybe some advantage from the better oil base and moly increase?
I think along those lines. You would probably weaken the RL, and strengthen the PYB. IMO you'd have a better blend than anything you'll buy in a store. All depends on how you view it. Yes it is taking away from the Red Line, and probably making the PYB better. JMO
Money savings. Maybe some advantage from the better oil base and moly increase?
I think along those lines. You would probably weaken the RL, and strengthen the PYB. IMO you'd have a better blend than anything you'll buy in a store. All depends on how you view it. Yes it is taking away from the Red Line, and probably making the PYB better. JMO
I've seen others on the board do that, no real advantage that I know of. Maybe the esters clean a little better, maybe they cling to the cyl walls for less startup wear, who really knows?
I think the biggest thing it would do would be to make you feel good about doing it, and that's not a bad thing
I think the biggest thing it would do would be to make you feel good about doing it, and that's not a bad thing
I don't know why anyone would say no advantages gained, isn't that what all the oil Co's do?? They blend oils. I would think that would be a great mix. You get the high polarity of the esters in RL, and the boost to an already good group 2+ oil. I see it as a good idea, w/o breaking the bank.
There's a big difference between real advantages and perceived advantages. I've never seen any documented advantages published from doing this.
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
I don't know why anyone would say no advantages gained, isn't that what all the oil Co's do?? They blend oils. I would think that would be a great mix. You get the high polarity of the esters in RL, and the boost to an already good group 2+ oil. I see it as a good idea, w/o breaking the bank.
Yes, THEY blend basestocks and additives, not fully formulated oils.
A good Group 3 might suit you will for balancing performance and cost.
I don't know why anyone would say no advantages gained, isn't that what all the oil Co's do?? They blend oils. I would think that would be a great mix. You get the high polarity of the esters in RL, and the boost to an already good group 2+ oil. I see it as a good idea, w/o breaking the bank.
Yes, THEY blend basestocks and additives, not fully formulated oils.
A good Group 3 might suit you will for balancing performance and cost.
The cost of 2 qts of Redline and 3 qts of PYB is more than 5 qts jug PP or PU, and the mixed would not better than either PP or PU.
Right before I sold the old T100 (3.4L) I did an oil change with some Pennzoil Platinum I had lying around. I used a Motorcraft FL-400S filter so I ended up almost a quart low and was out of Platinum, so I topped it off with a quart of Red Line 5w30. That T100 seemed to love that mix, no UOAs or anything but it ran great.
I'm still not a believer in mixing oils as a habit, as they are balanced products and the chances of producing an odd ball mix that outperforms what these companies spend big $$ to perfect is nil. It does seem like RL would be well suited to spiking a group II/III oil though.
I'm still not a believer in mixing oils as a habit, as they are balanced products and the chances of producing an odd ball mix that outperforms what these companies spend big $$ to perfect is nil. It does seem like RL would be well suited to spiking a group II/III oil though.
I used some Red Line 5w30 to top off my sump of Quaker State Torque Power 5w30, and my oil consumption has gone done dramatically. I think in an engine that may need some seal conditioning, this isn't a bad idea. I had previously used several high mileage oils and leak stop additives, with no results.
Originally Posted By: BobFout
I guess you could (no advantages), but why castrate Redline in that way?
+1
It would be like ordering Fillet Mignon then covering it with Ketchup.
I guess you could (no advantages), but why castrate Redline in that way?
+1
It would be like ordering Fillet Mignon then covering it with Ketchup.
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
I used some Red Line 5w30 to top off my sump of Quaker State Torque Power 5w30, and my oil consumption has gone done dramatically. I think in an engine that may need some seal conditioning, this isn't a bad idea.
More than that. Very popular move in taxi circles around here to 'fix' the valve stem seals leaking from CAFE coffee
I used some Red Line 5w30 to top off my sump of Quaker State Torque Power 5w30, and my oil consumption has gone done dramatically. I think in an engine that may need some seal conditioning, this isn't a bad idea.
More than that. Very popular move in taxi circles around here to 'fix' the valve stem seals leaking from CAFE coffee
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