Mixing Oils for One OCI

Pennzoil motor oil
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67Customs

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North Carolina
I have a 2006 Town & Country with 102K miles.

I have the following leftovers that I need to get rid of:

1 Quart Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20
2 Quarts Mobil 1 5W-20
1 Quart Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30
1 Quart Mobil Super High Mileage 5w30

I was going to mix them all for one OCI (about 5K miles). Anyone see a problem with doing this?
 
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Mixing is OK.....has been said many times on this board.

My question is.....Why are you doing 5,000 miles OCI's?....while using all these quality Mobil 1 oils.
_____________________________________________
03' Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) . 98,500
Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 / Purolator PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/-
 
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
My question is.....Why are you doing 5,000 miles OCI's?....while using all these quality Mobil 1 oils.
I purchased my Town & Country about a year ago with 85,000 miles. I used Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20 and it ran well, but it used about a half a quart every 5K (Basically, it would move from the top of the marker to the botton during the OCI.. Nothing crazy.). So, I didn't feel comfortable pushing it past 5K until I knew what kind of oil it liked. I switched to Quaker State High Mileage 5w20 and it didn't consume any. I'm not going to run Quaker State High Mileage more than 5K. I plan on going back to it or Mobil Super HM after using these oils. I was just planning on running the same OCI while "getting rid of" these oils.

Originally Posted By: ericthepig
It's no fun but every once in a while it's necessary. Got some scraps in on top of my Schaeffers in the Sienna as we speak.

Yeah, I've never been a mixer fan, but I've got stuff I've collected that is taking up space and I don't like wasting oil.

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Sound too thin for Cackalaky Summer, I would save the mix for Winter. Then run it 7k if the 7k happens in 3 months ...
It calls for 5W-20 and that is what I have been running in it since I got it. Since I'm using a couple of 5w30's (one being HM), I'm not sure how that is thinner than what I have been using (mostly 0W-20). Plus, I'm in the western part of N. Cackalaky in the mountains and we don't see crazy high temps. It is usually 70-80degs.
 
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Why would there be problems if the viscosity is OK. This post brings up a question where do people get the idea that there is a problem mixing oil brands. When this website first came on line some enlightened poster would add there will be additive clash?????
 
Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Keep an eye out for additive clash.
Low saps oils have a very delicate package balance and they MAY evidence increase wear if the mix went sour. You have to research and read the Patents for low/mid saps add packages and look at the valvetrain wear found when the balance of the base and package was adjusted or slightly off. The whole of the solids in a protection package are about 1 rounded tsp in a gallon - or sump. Again your UOA does not evidence moderate or catastrophic wear. A recent example on Bob's of a BMW X5 with a failing/failed valvetrain showed good UOA. I bet his filter pleats were full of junk as well as the pickup screen.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
... When this website first came on line some enlightened poster would add there will be additive clash?????


From Citgo Triboliogists:

Can’t mix brands of motor oil.
Fact: Mixing brands is not the best practice because the additive systems in each may be different and when mixed may not function as efficiently as desired. However, no serious problems will occur if you must add a different brand of equivalent quality between oil changes. It is very important to maintain proper oil level.

Myth: Motor oils can cause sludge.
Fact: True, poor quality oils can contribute to sludge. Sludge deposits are formed by a combination of dirt, soot, partially burned fuel, oxidized motor oil, leaked coolant and condensed water vapor produced during combustion. These bad guys are usually present, and a good motor oil keeps them separated so they are drained with the oil and not deposited in the engine. Using a good quality oil and regular oil and filter changes will prevent sludge.

Myth: Paraffinic base oils can cause wax buildup and sludge.
Fact: Not true. All high quality petroleum motor oils are made from paraffinic base oils. In spite of its name, “paraffin” does not mean candle wax. The stability of paraffin molecules makes paraffinic base oils more resistant to the chemical changes that can take place in an engine than other types of base oils. That means less sludge, varnish and corrosive wear with a high quality paraffinic base motor oil.

Myth: My car manufacturer says I’m supposed to use their branded oil to protect my warranty.
Fact: Warranty cannot be tied to the use of a specific brand of oil; however, it can be tied to the use of a specific quality level of oil. Use of a lesser quality oil is construed as abuse, and abuse is not covered by the warranty. CITGO SUPERGARD® motor oils exceed the performance requirements of the API SN Category and the ILSAC GF-5 specification, which the car manufacturers use to recommend service fill oil
 
Originally Posted By: 67Customs
I have a 2006 Town & Country with 102K miles.

I have the following leftovers that I need to get rid of:

1 Quart Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20
2 Quarts Mobil 1 5W-20
1 Quart Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30
1 Quart Mobil Super High Mileage 5w30

I was going to mix them all for one OCI (about 5K miles). Anyone see a problem with doing this?


I see no problem, its not like you will be doing this all of the time.
 
He's staying with Mobil oil - how bad can it be to mix ? I would think the same could be said if you mixed Quaker State Advanced Durability with Quaker State Ultimate Durability , Pennzoil conventional with PP , etc. as your staying with the same family of products .
 
Family does not = same package - FS, QS and PP (cousins by marriage) used very different formulations in SM. I think he'll be fine with the mobil 1 frankenbrew, though - i was more worried about the finished dumbell grade.
 
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Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Keep an eye out for additive clash.


as long as the all the oils are API certified, there wont be one! part of that certification is having the ability to be mixed with any other oil carrying that certification
 
That is not true per se. The "miscibility guarantee" will is to re-assure that catastrophic agglomeration or gelling or other major chemical or triboligical changes will not occur, but appears with no insurance against a substantial loss of anti-wear property. The package patent studies show the increased wear. Saying it does not hurt 20 times does not make it true.
 
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Lots of scary stuff in some of the posts above.
Ask yourself this question:
Is the engine likely better off with a mix of clean, fresh oil, or with the oil that's currently in it?
Many members mix oils on a regular basis, and report no problems.
I used to mix oils all the time, and the engines in which I used those mixes went on to lead long, happy lives.
I don't mix oils as a matter of practice anymore, but if I had a little bit of this and a little bit of that laying around, I'd probably run a change of 4-5K on it, just to use it.
Practice either validates theory, or makes a mockery of it.
Many have mixed, while none seem to have suffered for it.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Lots of scary stuff in some of the posts above.
Ask yourself this question:
Is the engine likely better off with a mix of clean, fresh oil, or with the oil that's currently in it?
Many members mix oils on a regular basis, and report no problems.
I used to mix oils all the time, and the engines in which I used those mixes went on to lead long, happy lives.
I don't mix oils as a matter of practice anymore, but if I had a little bit of this and a little bit of that laying around, I'd probably run a change of 4-5K on it, just to use it.
Practice either validates theory, or makes a mockery of it.
Many have mixed, while none seem to have suffered for it.


+1

Originally Posted By: ericthepig
Keep an eye out for additive clash.


And what does additive clash look/sound like?

I keep hearing about addivive clash from others here at Bob's but no one has come forward with an "real" example!
No, not that guy with a BMW that ARCO mentioned! No one knows what happened there, one can only assume.

Said it a dozen time here at Bob's. I've been mixing oil for ~40 years and not only have my engines live a long happy life, they ran friggin GREAT!

I don't use sub standard oils in my engines. I use oil that are meant for my engines. I just mix brand/weights, dino's w/ syn's.
 
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