Mixing oil

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I have a few odd quarts that I'm slowly consuming. Just doing a quart per OCI in 8 quart system - same brand and viscosity.
But I know the base oil blend is a bit different. (like MSS in AFE, or EP in AFE, things like that).
Like many things, moderation is a safer bet.
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
I have a few odd quarts that I'm slowly consuming. Just doing a quart per OCI in 8 quart system - same brand and viscosity.
But I know the base oil blend is a bit different. (like MSS in AFE, or EP in AFE, things like that).
Like many things, moderation is a safer bet.


thumbsup2.gif
Agreed.
 
It's typically the anti-foaming additives that are the first to resist blending. Two oils may not foam up by themselves, but when blended together may foam a lot if additives of different chemistry, taking two different approaches to the same problem, end up cancelling each other out.

The same brand, with the same add pack, and the only difference between the ratio of 4, 6, and 8 cSt base oil shouldn't have any problems at all.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
How do they test for 0W, when testing fuel-contaminated, dirty, long-used oil?




You're joking, right?


Yeah, I don't think he is being serious today


Making a point
 
Originally Posted by MrQuackers
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
How do they test for 0W, when testing fuel-contaminated, dirty, long-used oil?
You're joking, right?
Yeah, I don't think he is being serious today
Making a point

Well please explain it then.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en

But Yes..... you can even blend 20w50 with 0W20.
It's all compatible..... 15w40, 5w40, 10w50.....etc.... blend away. Even allowances with diesel/gas passenger oils/vehicles.


Any approvals that the former individual constituents held are now wholly invalid, as it was only the fully formulated product, as blended by the manufacturer, that passed the requirements for those approvals.
[/quote]

Every time a standard drain and refill occurs, 10-20% of the previous oil remains in the engine, especially newer engine designs with overhead cams, turbos, oil coolers, and VVT. If what OVERKILL says is true, then all of these approvals are made wholly invalid each and every time the oil is changed. I have documented that residual oil will reduce your viscosity, lower your TBN, increase oxidation levels, and retain upwards of 20% of wear metals, contaminents, fuel dilution, etc. The only way to prevent this is to perform a full volume oil change, thereby ensuring a 99% fluid exchange.
 
Originally Posted by Talent_Keyhole
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en

But Yes..... you can even blend 20w50 with 0W20.
It's all compatible..... 15w40, 5w40, 10w50.....etc.... blend away. Even allowances with diesel/gas passenger oils/vehicles.


Any approvals that the former individual constituents held are now wholly invalid, as it was only the fully formulated product, as blended by the manufacturer, that passed the requirements for those approvals.


Every time a standard drain and refill occurs, 10-20% of the previous oil remains in the engine, especially newer engine designs with overhead cams, turbos, oil coolers, and VVT. If what OVERKILL says is true, then all of these approvals are made wholly invalid each and every time the oil is changed. I have documented that residual oil will reduce your viscosity, lower your TBN, increase oxidation levels, and retain upwards of 20% of wear metals, contaminents, fuel dilution, etc. The only way to prevent this is to perform a full volume oil change, thereby ensuring a 99% fluid exchange.


[/quote]



I don't think a blanket statement can be made like this. In my case, the Mazda takes 5.4 quarts total including the filter. When I drain the oil I get that amount in the pan. I then add 5.4 quarts to bring the level to the full mark on the dipstick.

If any oil is left it is minimal and coating parts. That doesn't add up to 10-20% of the fill. That would be up to one quart in my case which doesn't happen.
 
Yes, how many people change their oil, idle for a minute or two, then drain and fill again? If you must have that carefully balanced brew lest the engine goes bang-poof, then a double drain/fill is a must.
 
Originally Posted by Talent_Keyhole
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en

But Yes..... you can even blend 20w50 with 0W20.
It's all compatible..... 15w40, 5w40, 10w50.....etc.... blend away. Even allowances with diesel/gas passenger oils/vehicles.


Any approvals that the former individual constituents held are now wholly invalid, as it was only the fully formulated product, as blended by the manufacturer, that passed the requirements for those approvals.


Every time a standard drain and refill occurs, 10-20% of the previous oil remains in the engine, especially newer engine designs with overhead cams, turbos, oil coolers, and VVT. If what OVERKILL says is true, then all of these approvals are made wholly invalid each and every time the oil is changed. I have documented that residual oil will reduce your viscosity, lower your TBN, increase oxidation levels, and retain upwards of 20% of wear metals, contaminents, fuel dilution, etc. The only way to prevent this is to perform a full volume oil change, thereby ensuring a 99% fluid exchange.


I'd say that particular issue is soundly mitigated (the mixing part torpedoing the integrity of the certifications/approvals) by using the same product on each drain and fill which should ensure that a fresh fill on a post-OCI event is simply dealing with left over contaminants. This is also why when doing UOA's one wants to trend multiple OCI's to allow the oil to "settle" as different oils plate-out differently and can use vastly different ad packs, the components of which may compete on wear surfaces. So it takes time to determine what "normal" is for a given oil.

Now, oil manufacturers do of course change formulas, but I'd expect the additive side of things will remain mostly the same with some of the primary differences occurring in base oil selection, which should essentially be a non-issue. This somewhat ties back to the OP's situation where the 5w-20 and 0w-20 are probably identical save the base oil and VII treat rate.

I'd expect the risk of anything happening switching brands at an OCI as approaching zero due to the low volume of the oil being mixed at that period. This, and having to add a top-up oil of a different brand during an OCI is what the miscibility standard is really designed to deal with, ensuring that when somebody does have to mix, they don't risk catastrophic failure by the two oils adversely interacting. This is quite contrary to the narrative spun by the pro-mixing crowd who believe that at minimum there will be absolutely no negative interactions and that they are potentially somehow producing a superior product.
 
The oils are so close in weight it will not make much difference. Just put it in your vehicle and forget about it.
 
I run 5k on my oil usually but 10k on the filter.
I do not always stick with the same brand, or even viscosity or approvals when I change the oil with the oil filter remaining holding whatever the previous fill was.
I sleep like a baby,
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
I don't think a blanket statement can be made like this. In my case, the Mazda takes 5.4 quarts total including the filter. When I drain the oil I get that amount in the pan. I then add 5.4 quarts to bring the level to the full mark on the dipstick.

If any oil is left it is minimal and coating parts. That doesn't add up to 10-20% of the fill. That would be up to one quart in my case which doesn't happen.

Ditto..I have the same volume sump and I fill up the 5qt jug and darn near half a qt in plastic bottle..so it's pretty close to what went in. (I experience virtually no burning). And I only let it drain for maybe a half an hour, maybe longer if I get distracted but never overnight or anything like that.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by tblt44
No problem you will have a
2.5w 20


No, he'll have 5w-20. There are no half winter ratings.



Hey I want a 1.25w-10
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
I run 5k on my oil usually but 10k on the filter.
I do not always stick with the same brand, or even viscosity or approvals when I change the oil with the oil filter remaining holding whatever the previous fill was.
I sleep like a baby,




Done that too... ^^^^^

No insomnia related to that.
 
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