mixing brands- weights

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Agreed, fdcg27. There are all kinds of oils (PCMO and HDEO) that are "available." Finding them is another story. And yes, cost is the real issue with leaking and/or burning. I have used synthetics in the past, but never in a known leaker or burner.
 
My only question is would there be any chance the the syn oil could free the possibly stuck rings? The car really runs like a charm...I only see smoke at a high rpm shift

When I first got it and changed the oil someone put the date in marker in the filter. It was like 2008 !!
Then I found an oil change sticky that said 08 too. The good news? was that the mileage was 91,000 and I only have 96000 now

Thanks
 
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Okay, so you're looking to free up the rings.
You might try MMO, which some members have reported good results with, or you might try Kreen, with which some members have also reported good results.
Check the oil additives forum for details on both.
 
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Originally Posted By: clarkflower
Wow...that additive forum...That's right, it filets, it chops, it dices, slices,Never stops, lasts a lifetime, gets rid of unwanted facial hair, it gets rid of embarrassing age spots,




LOL and why I never visit that part of BITOG...
 
Okay, but bear in mind that no oil is likely to free up stuck rings on its own, and while no additive known to have helped others with similar problems may help you, short of a teardown, you have no other cards to play.
Not sure what a mediocre songwiter/singer has to do with it either.
 
Using your thinking...and the what do I have to lose-what can it hurt-I actually put in 3/4 qt of MMO in the crankcase and the rest in the gas.

Re Waits.. Some love him...In 2011, Waits was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame
My kids when they were small laughed and laughed. They loved it
 
I've never used MMO, but others here have and have reported good results.
If I had a car like yours, with rings I suspected were stuck, I'd probably try MMO in the oil, just to see whether it might help, since your only option to an oil additive is a teardown, or to simply live with high consumption.
Waits is really okay, just not on my list of favorites.
The Rock Hall of Fame is in my hometown, incidentally.
Please let us know whether the MMO does anything to help.
Your engine sounds like a good test case, which would help to either confirm or deny the reported efficiency of MMO in feeing stuck rings.
You are agnostic on the subject of MMO, so you are a good neutral observer.
 
>>The Rock Hall of Fame is in my

Neat.
On the MMO I will. Way back in the 70's-80's I was a pilot on some really old stuff. DC4 and DC6's. Our mech's all used MMO, on their own cars too.
I found this pretty good link related to MMO in planes. http://www.pipercubforum.com/marvel.htm
 
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Yea...CV 440, DC 4 and the 6. That 6 got 61 inches of MP with the water injection on to cool. Detonation if the water ran out or failed.
Came this close to flying a B 29 converted to a freighter but didn't want to leave a steady job for the unknown
 
Got to fly as SLF in a Convair 440 back in the late 'seventies.
Never flew on a four engined piston aircraft, though.
Most of the active Convair twins had been re-engined with turboprops by the 'seventies, mostly CV 580 with Allisons.
Didn't know that anyone had converted the B 29 to freight.
That must have been an awesomely expensive and troublesome beast
to operate.
 
B29-I was told by some old timers that it was not safe."Oh I would not fly in that if I were you" They could have been talking about just that aircraft.
Lots of stuff in those old planes. Leading edges not smooth anymore, doors (gear) not shutting tight. Still getting rated HP?

I do know that in the DC 6 after losing an engine full weight on takeoff we had to do a fast downwind landing as we were losing 200 ft a minute with 3 at max power (even though the book says you can climb on 3 engines)
 
Yeah, at a weight not exceeding what would be allowable for prevailing conditions (temperature, runway length), it should have been able to climb on three, since this would have been part of the aircraft's type certification.
200 fpm descent close to the ground at full power on three?
Scary.
 
Any HM 10w/40 will work just fine for your car.Mobil 1 10w40 HM in my oil burning bad valve stem Geo beater worked great.Went from a quart evey 800 miles to a big fat zero make up oil in almost 4000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: nickaluch
Any HM 10w/40 will work just fine for your car.Mobil 1 10w40 HM in my oil burning bad valve stem Geo beater worked great.Went from a quart evey 800 miles to a big fat zero make up oil in almost 4000 miles.


What oil were you using before HM 10W40?
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I've never used MMO, but others here have and have reported good results.
If I had a car like yours, with rings I suspected were stuck, I'd probably try MMO in the oil, You are agnostic on the subject of MMO, so you are a good neutral observer.


Here is the deal for me with the MMO. I had two things in mind. Thought it went through 3-4 quarts of the first time Mobil 1 10w30 in 3 weeks of a highway commute, it is a 700 dollar car and it ran pretty to very well. I did not want to risk doing damage to something that was not broken (as the car ran well for what it is)like a seal or a cat so I used it for a modest amount of time.

I read in planes they say use it for 5 hours. On car guy said in 300 miles he got higher compression.
I had it in for 7 days and about 7-10 hours of hard driving. Hwy and city winding it out more than I ever do.

I put 80% of the 32oz in the crank and the rest in with my gas 2-3 times the rec dose.

Today I noticed that that black puff of smoke that was always there when I shift at (a high for me) 4000 rpm's was gone. I did it a few more times even at 5-6 rpm and it is gone.
The oil that looked like it came out of the bottle the day before I added the MMO looked black.

I changed the oil today to a HM Mobil 1 10w40 from the 10-30.

I never noticed more power or a smoother engine as many seem to say but the car ran pretty smooth to begin with
 
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