Yes, it takes longer to suck out the oil vs. pulling the drain plug. But no getting tools, ramps, floor jacks, oil pans. No jacking the vehicle. No sloshing and/or spilling oil in the oil pan. Far less mess! I'm sold.
MityVac Fluid Evacuator - Awesome-sauce?
- Thread starter JeffKeryk
- Start date
Can you explain how does that exactly work?
The clear, graduated body of the MityVac lets you know how much earl has drained.
It's a quality tool.
It's a quality tool.
Makes sense its slower on the one step of getting the oil out- the drain plug has a diameter and gravity advantage.
Whats the "door to door" time of the total task comparatively though?
I pick up speed overall by skipping steps
Dont bother changing from normal clothes.
Dont have to raise the car for OCI only (I do 2-1)
Not getting a blanket out, putting it back
Not getting under a car twice
Not getting a socket set and new crush washer out.
Not getting a torque wrench out, and putting it back (for those so inclined)
Not cleaning up spill across crossmember, or removing aero
A drain pan only has X amount of volume as well, maybe more, but its still got to be emptied.
I only use the small attachment and can get a 7 quart sump out of my titan in 15 min or less.
In the end for me, the advantages are many over pulling a plug. YMMY obviously.
I can feel the tube hit the pan with plenty of room left over, but those are the accessories I got, maybe the new ones are shorter.
I have one and its handy for extracting oil from lawn mowers, generator, power steering fluid, etc. I still drain motor oil from the vehicles with the drain plugs. You have to change the filter and inspect the undercarriage for problems and maintenance.
I think the Mityvac is a great tool and has it's place in many areas.
For me, I can't get past the fact that what doesn't get sucked up with the extractor, will likely get caught in the pickup tube screen.
Removing the drain plug if all possible, should clean out most everything on the bottom of the pan, near the drain plug.
I even add about 1/4 of a quart of cheap oil after it stops draining to push any remaining old oil/possible debris out.
Sure the filter will trap what the engine draws up, if it makes it past the screen.
I agree though with a good drain interval, the extractor shouldn't be a problem.
For me, I can't get past the fact that what doesn't get sucked up with the extractor, will likely get caught in the pickup tube screen.
Removing the drain plug if all possible, should clean out most everything on the bottom of the pan, near the drain plug.
I even add about 1/4 of a quart of cheap oil after it stops draining to push any remaining old oil/possible debris out.
Sure the filter will trap what the engine draws up, if it makes it past the screen.
I agree though with a good drain interval, the extractor shouldn't be a problem.
Hey l made my own using my shop vac still use it after 10 years not hard to manufacture .
I get that view.
The pickup and its screen dont sit on the bottom of the pan, but pull from higher up.
If you are sucking goop after an extractor drain- you were sucking goop before.
Lots of pans are non-linear in design and the drain plug doenst pull from the lowest point.
Pulling the plug won't get any more out than an extractor.
Ken Bergsma demonstrates this fairly well in the youtube video above
If you are at a place where there is solid material in the pan that clogs an extractor you have have other problems that a mere drain plug pull isn't going to fix either, and you should probably drop the pan and clean it out.
I understand wanting to get every last bit of debris out, but even with adding a 1/4 quart of push through oil you are still performing whats referred to as a short volume oil change, something like 15% of the sump remains in the engine. If even a small % of the remaining oil is oxidized it will quickly deplete the new good oil.
IF the old oil is near its impurity holding capacity or oxidized you are parking the same nasty oil elsewhere in the mill you are paying to flush out of the pan with a static dump. Better to do a full short term change.
UD
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I agree with UD. With the ease of the extractor, just do a shorter mileage OCI.
I will pull the drain plug every other (maybe 3rd) service.
I used to think these things were lame; I was wrong. Just my 2 cents.
I will pull the drain plug every other (maybe 3rd) service.
I used to think these things were lame; I was wrong. Just my 2 cents.
I think the biggest advantage of draining is getting under there to spot other issues. I use a top side extractor for my Audi since the belly pan is a pita to get off. You can change your oil is a suit and tie with an extractor. I have a mechanic that does the more in-depth items, so someone is always looking at it.
My driveway/garage floor tells me if something is dripping that shouldnt be.
I actually have a lift so I get under the rig at filter change time which for me is every 20K.
Even with a lift Ill use the mityvac every time from the top.
I actually have a lift so I get under the rig at filter change time which for me is every 20K.
Even with a lift Ill use the mityvac every time from the top.
Been using the MV for awhile now and so far I'm a big fan for reasons mentioned. It extracts about as fast as a drain plug pull, when factoring the 15 minutes I would tend to allow it to drip. It extracts as much oil as a plug pull IME, and it's handy that it is measured out on the side of the unit so I can visually see how much came out so to avoid accidentally over or under-filling the car (this did occur to me, before I had a MV, when I mis-remembered the drain pan size and put 1qt too much oil in, and then had to go below to pull the plug to drain some oil out.)
As for getting it "all out" as mentioned, it's not possible for either method since ~5-15% is going to remain regardless so it's not a real concern. Sediments should be suspended, but the MV suggests extracting warm oil because it probably flows better and has more contaminants in suspension.
The time saving includes, not having to get jacks/ramps out (and put them back), all of the risks of jacking up or ramping up a car and getting under it, the sloshing of an oil pan, and spilling oil almost every time transferring it from pan to jugs, the MV is generally much cleaner. Other advantages include no risk of stripping the bolt, losing the bolt, not tightening it enough or overtightening it, gaskets, etc. Also, no dripping hot oil on your arm with a MV. No need for rubber gloves. I think all ICE should be purposefully designed for fluid extraction, as a primary or secondary measure.
I also have used it for transmission and that alone is worth the $100! I can do 5 spill and fills almost effortlessly over the course of a month or two, whereas a full pan drop and replacement would take an afternoon each time and be very messy and require me to fully lift the car and get under it. Paying a mechanic to do this is $200 each time. That would be $1000 for 5 changes. Sure, at some point the filter needs replacement but that's once, versus five times. I've also been able to service radiators, so no risk of damaging the drain valve. I will be attempting gear oil and power steering before winter.
If you're on the fence, you should try a MV top side extractor.
As for getting it "all out" as mentioned, it's not possible for either method since ~5-15% is going to remain regardless so it's not a real concern. Sediments should be suspended, but the MV suggests extracting warm oil because it probably flows better and has more contaminants in suspension.
The time saving includes, not having to get jacks/ramps out (and put them back), all of the risks of jacking up or ramping up a car and getting under it, the sloshing of an oil pan, and spilling oil almost every time transferring it from pan to jugs, the MV is generally much cleaner. Other advantages include no risk of stripping the bolt, losing the bolt, not tightening it enough or overtightening it, gaskets, etc. Also, no dripping hot oil on your arm with a MV. No need for rubber gloves. I think all ICE should be purposefully designed for fluid extraction, as a primary or secondary measure.
I also have used it for transmission and that alone is worth the $100! I can do 5 spill and fills almost effortlessly over the course of a month or two, whereas a full pan drop and replacement would take an afternoon each time and be very messy and require me to fully lift the car and get under it. Paying a mechanic to do this is $200 each time. That would be $1000 for 5 changes. Sure, at some point the filter needs replacement but that's once, versus five times. I've also been able to service radiators, so no risk of damaging the drain valve. I will be attempting gear oil and power steering before winter.
If you're on the fence, you should try a MV top side extractor.
I have used both the mityvac and topsider and just for ****s and giggles, after all the oil is sucked out I opened the drain plug and there is at least 8 ounces of oil that still drains out. I didn't like the fact that much oil was still remaining so I just do it the old fashioned way now.
100% agree. And filter on top as well.
For PS, I suck out the reservoir and put MV tube in the return line. Extract until it pulls air.
Add fluid to reservoir and continue extraction until clean fluid pulls through.
Let reservoir level drop low to minimize mess hooking return line back up.
Refill reservoir, start engine and bleed out any air, which should be minimal. Easy peasy.
GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Recently purchased this from Amazon because it offered both the manual and Pneumatic.
Not tried this out yet.....but looking forward to it.
Not tried this out yet.....but looking forward to it.
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