MITSUBISHI Pajero 4M41 3.2 Litre Turbo Diesel (|Non DPF A3 B4 / C3 ? ) Australia

[BDK]

I never owned a diesel before but just got a 2014 Diesel Pajero I'm in Australia non DPF they only started in 2016....

From my understanding if no DPF I don't need C3 oils and better off to stick with A3/B4 ?

A lot of people here in Aus just use semi-synthetic for these engines and they have no issues, do I still need full synthetic ?

Also what are the best diesel specs I should look for MB229.5 or I don't need to worry about stuff like this and get Castrol edge 5w40 A3/B4 and be done with it....

I'll be doing quite a lot of short drives in between loner weekend drives so I'm thinking of avoiding 15W40 and just stick to 5w30 5w40.

 

[BDK]

Or thinking of using this maybe

https://penriteoil.com.au/products/hpr-10-10w-50-full-synthetic

 

[YZJB]

I would run either of these two. Wouldn’t run the 10W-50 that’s for sure.

 

[fantastic]

A C3 oil is still a good option for you & they are still robust. You can still use a C3 xw-30 or xw-40 oil & will work good.

 

[Falcon_LS]

I believe the recommended oil for that particular application is a 5W-30 meeting either ACEA A5/B5 or A4/B4, which is a bit confusing when you take HTHS into consideration. For an API specification, I vaguely remember CF-4 being recommended.

That said, if you do have a DPF, I would recommend something meeting ACEA E9. Alternatively, you could just go with a decent 5W-40 meeting API CJ-4.

 

[YZJB]

The Nulon 10W-40 CK-4/E11 would be perfect. Give it a go.

 

[SureshR]

With a Paj of any pre DPF vintage stick to 15w40 CK4 - especially the dino mineral ones rather than synthetic. Your oil seals will thank you and that car will go anywhere at all in the outback on 15w40.

 

[Strumpan_]

With a Paj of any pre DPF vintage stick to 15w40 CK4 - especially the dino mineral ones rather than synthetic. Your oil seals will thank you and that car will go anywhere at all in the outback on 15w40.

Going with synthetic wont make it leak.

 

[SureshR]

Going with synthetic wont make it leak.

Let me rephrase.

Synthetic with PAO is absolutely inert and what happens is any brittle or already leaky seals will just leak a bit more.
Using a dino oil with a base stock that has rather more ester than PAO will swell those brittle seals and head off any incipient leaks - the sort that are just at the "sweating" stage.
If the leak has already started and is severe enough, you will eventually have to replace whatever seal or gasket it is.

 

[BDK]

Let me rephrase.

Synthetic with PAO is absolutely inert and what happens is any brittle or already leaky seals will just leak a bit more.
Using a dino oil with a base stock that has rather more ester than PAO will swell those brittle seals and head off any incipient leaks - the sort that are just at the "sweating" stage.
If the leak has already started and is severe enough, you will eventually have to replace whatever seal or gasket it is.

I've not got a Patrol Common Rail ZD30 , think I should still go for 15W40 mineral instead of synthetic ?

 

[SureshR]

I've not got a Patrol Common Rail ZD30 , think I should still go for 15W40 mineral instead of synthetic ?

If you have an older petrol engine without any LSPI or particulate filter concerns, or an old diesel engine, high mileage, and that too in hot weather like Australia, just run a CK4 (hell, why CK4, just get good old CI4+ if there are stocks, they mostly come dual rated SN) HDEO, or a 10w40 / 15w40 ACEA A3/B4. You'll like the results.

 

[BDK]

If you have an older petrol engine without any LSPI or particulate filter concerns, or an old diesel engine, high mileage, and that too in hot weather like Australia, just run a CK4 (hell, why CK4, just get good old CI4+ if there are stocks, they mostly come dual rated SN) HDEO, or a 10w40 / 15w40 ACEA A3/B4. You'll like the results.

Thanks it's a 2013, it's got an EGR but no DPF.... Nissan service book calls for a CF, B3 or JASO DH-1 spec oil and states that a 5W-30 oil is recommended or chose from the SAE table

 

[SureshR]

Thanks it's a 2013, it's got an EGR but no DPF.... Nissan service book calls for a CF, B3 or JASO DH-1 spec oil and states that a 5W-30 oil is recommended or chose from the SAE table

So what you do is get a CI4+ or CK4 or basically anything above API CF. Standard HDEO truck engine oil that you can buy by the bucket for next to nothing. Your Paj will thrive on it, and all those API C* specs are backwards compatible with API CF.

 

[SR5]

If the book calls for a 5W30 A3/B4 oil then that is what I would use. There are lots of those oils in Australia.

Right now SCA has Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4 synthetic at half price $47.50 for 5L. (Sales Ends 20th July 2025) it's
ACEA A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5, VW 502/505;
KV100 = 12.3 cSt, SA = 1.2%, PP = -39C, FP = 210C; Noack < 10%, TBN > 10, ZDDP ~ 1000 ppm.

You don't have a DPF, so high SAPS (sulphated ash %) is fine for your vehicle. I would say given that Australian fuels are some of the worst in the world when it comes to sulphur content, a high SAPS oil is preferable to a low SAPS C3 oil, as the elevated TBN better controls acid buildup.

If you wanted to go a bit thicker, I like Shell Helix Ultra in a 5W40 viscosity. Its also A3/B4, MB 229.5, Porsche A40, etc.

Both are Group-III / GTL full synthetics, so no PAO oil seal issues. Not that Ive ever had any problems with that.