I have a new Subaru I plan to switch to synthetic after the 2nd change. I don't put many miles on the car, 3500 in a yr, and mainly highway. I have an 86' Chevy with 81k on it, and planning to use the oil I drain from the Sube in it. I think Synthetics last a lot longer, and with mostly highway miles, don't think it would be used up at reccomended time intervals for a new car, except for additives. My Chevy uses some oil between changes, so figure adding some fresh, and saving the rest to top off would be fine.
I read where Bob says that synthetics don't find leaks like they used to with the new gaskets and additives, but Not gaskets on an 80's car, and to flush an old motor before switching. I picked up some Quaker State Q synthetic and some Mobil 1 synthetic. They are Both thought to be highly refined Group 3 mineral oils, Not true synthetics, and I am wondering if Bob's warnings about old seals and flushing hold true for switching to them in an old car? Seems like since they are compatible with mineral oils, they are basically the same, and the problems wouldn't exist. The Subaru isn't a turbo. If it was I would go with what I believe are True Synthetics, Group 4 or I believe there is a 5. Been a while since I searched for info.
VF
I read where Bob says that synthetics don't find leaks like they used to with the new gaskets and additives, but Not gaskets on an 80's car, and to flush an old motor before switching. I picked up some Quaker State Q synthetic and some Mobil 1 synthetic. They are Both thought to be highly refined Group 3 mineral oils, Not true synthetics, and I am wondering if Bob's warnings about old seals and flushing hold true for switching to them in an old car? Seems like since they are compatible with mineral oils, they are basically the same, and the problems wouldn't exist. The Subaru isn't a turbo. If it was I would go with what I believe are True Synthetics, Group 4 or I believe there is a 5. Been a while since I searched for info.
VF