Million Miles: what's your plan?

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Let's say you could start fresh and your main goal was to reach 1,000,000 miles, or even more, What would you pick? NO DIESELS ALLOWED.

Car: Brand New 2009 Hyundai Elantra SE

Transmission: 5-speed manual
Transmission oil: Amsoil MTG 75w90
Oil: Amsoil or Mobil 1
Oil Filter: Hyundai
Gasoline: Shell/BP
Spark Plugs: NGK
Fuel Filter: Hyundai
Air Filter: Hyundai
Spark Plug wires: Hyundai or NGK
Coolant: Any
P/S, Brake, Clutch fluid: Amsoil ATF/DOT 3/DOT 3
Tires: American Goodyear or French Michelin
 
I would have to have a way different commute to put on one million in a reasonable time frame.

Car: 2004 Ford Crown Victoria (same car I have now)

Transmission: Modified Automagic
Transmission oil: Amsoil with auxiliary filtration.
Oil: Amsoil 0W20
Oil Filter: Amsoil EaO and Amsoil bypass.
Gasoline: Chevron
Spark Plugs: NGK
Fuel Filter: Ford
Air Filter: Amsoil EAA
Spark Plug coils: Ford
Coolant: G-05 every 100k
P/S, Brake: Amsoil ATF and Amsoil DOT3
Tires: Michelin
 
Car: pre-2008 Toyota Land Cruiser (assuming I have the cash to afford one)

Transmission: 6-speed manual
Transmission oil: Redline
Oil: synthetic HDEO
Oil Filter: Purolator PureOne or Fram XG
Gasoline: station with the highest turnover + a dose of ucl
Spark Plugs: NGK/Denso
Fuel Filter: Toyota
Air Filter: Toyota
Spark Plug wires: Denso/NGK
Coolant: Toyota or Peak Global
P/S, Brake, Clutch fluid: Amsoil ATF/DOT 4/DOT 4
Tires: Michelin or Bridgestone
 
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I'd pick something with a manual transmission and a reputation for structural design. None of this front-wheel drive, monocoque design junk.

Give me a W124 chassis Mercedes with a diesel (I know it wasn't allowed,, but why start with a disadvantage) and a manual transmission.... and plenty of high quality synthetic lubes.

And finally,, locate me in a climate that minimizes cold starts and allows for extremely long drives so that I can get this ownership experience over quickly (25 years??).
 
In Canada you can pretty much forget it, unless you rack up the miles really quick, the rust and harsh operating conditions eventually will kill the car one way or another.
So my plan would be any car, maybe cross Chryler off that list, and move south.
 
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Reasonable OCI's and other lube changes, rust-proofing the under-carriage with oil every spring, wax treatment in the spring and fall. Granted I doubt we'll see over 500k on either of our vehicles. I expect 300-400k on the Escape and that'll take 25 years and probably 300k on the Ranger and that'll probably take 40 years. The Duratec engines I'm not worried about the undercarriage even with the oil will probably rust away before the motors are shot.
 
I think my TL has a decent shot at making it. Switched all fluids to a high quality synthetic, high HTHS engine oil early on. Over half the miles are freeway. If I choose to use it as my commuter again it would have a much better chance.

Otherwise, something old with a traditional 350 SBC or 302/351Ford, or a 318 Mopar with modern fuel injection on a good modern oil with a TH400 behind it. Yes, I know the 400 didn't come behind any Fords or Mopars.

I don't have to worry about rust so if I can keep it out of accidents who knows what can happen. We'll see what the electronics are like in 15 years.
 
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Proper maintenance using high quality filters, lubricants and other fluids changed on time. And the use of a UCL like MMO or Lucas with a top-tier fuel.

Driving moderately and not abusing the engine.

If it were my car I would outfit it with Amsoil everything other than coolant (I would use OEM) and use OEM parts for tune-up's etc.

I would keep it washed/waxed, and rustproofed every year (if available)
 
You can't put a million miles on a vehicle unless you live in the thing and are driving at least 1500 miles a week, every week in a year for nearly 13 years.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
So it's aluminum... Whats the problem with that? The cylinders have cast-iron inserts in most cases for cylinder walls.



I was not aware Hyundai had liners in their engines.
 
Most aluminum engines have cast-iron liners as it is cheaper to manufacturer the engine this way so they can use a lower grade aluminum for the block... Only the higher end engines that have solid tough aluminum cylinder walls and use a higher grade aluminum don't use the cast-iron liners. Like some German engines from what I have seen.
 
I'd move out of Northern Virginia. Between the awful traffic and the awful drivers, you aren't putting a million miles on your car here--it'll probably get rear-ended/totalled by some feeb yacking on a cellphone.
 
Originally Posted By: brianl703
I'd move out of Northern Virginia. Between the awful traffic and the awful drivers, you aren't putting a million miles on your car here--it'll probably get rear-ended/totalled by some feeb yacking on a cellphone.

That sounds like South Florida.
 
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