Miles on filters

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SC, USA
I have recently started a side hussle that involves a lot of city driving and stop and go, so I am altering my oil change routine. I am considering going to 5k miles for oil changes. I typically run a 10k mile oil filter and full synthetic oil and change them both at 7500 miles. So with this new change in maintenance should I run the filter to its limits of 10K miles (2 oil changes) or should I run a lower tier 5k filter and change both every time OR upgrade and run a 15k filter and change it after '2 cycles'. I have been tossing around the idea for a little while and I am not sure what would be 'best' for the situation. Let me know your thoughts, thanks!
 
Run the 10,000 mile oil to 10,000 miles and 10,000 mile filter 10k miles......assuming you are out of warranty. Always best to follow the owners manual exactly but if you are committed to 10k and 15k filters why short change? Waste of money. There isn't a for profit business or fleet of vehicles being short changed and running premium filters. The hardest run vehicles get the least maintenance and cheapest fluids and filters and go literally hundreds of thousands of miles. Don't waste your money.

My tow truck and service vehicles fleet we follow the OEM manual to a Tee—which says for severe duty to always follow the OLM— and run the cheapest bulk oils meeting spec. I like Fram jobber filters or orange cans bought in bulk however cost always wins out.....although more often than not we have Fram jobber or orange cans on all vehicles......including my personal vehicles. If I can find a cheaper deal then I buy in bulk. I've had all kinds of filters many I've never heard of before. Never a problem.

I use the same philosophy in my service shop and we maintain city and county police, ambulance and a large portion of the school bus fleets. Always the cheapest parts meeting OEM spec and replaced at OEM intervals. Never a short change unless say a police car is in the service department for something else....alternator....and oil change makes sense to do early just because it's there. That's the only time we would ever short change. Run factory fills to max limits always. Who really knows how ma y hours the police cars idle. It isn't even taken into account and they get driven hard and still no issues. (No oil related issues.....Dodges are true junk so CONSTANT problems.....I've probably made who knows how much money charging the city and county for towing and repairs on Chrysler products!!!!!.......Italian / French now that Pugeot owns them....but they were junk before that....ask any cop)

Had one oil related failure in 24 years and that was a tow truck responding to a vehicle slid off the interstate and ran over a huge piece of 3/4 rebar bent in such a way it punctured the oil pan. By the time the driver realized the engine had seized. That's the sum total of oil related failures in a very large fleet of vehicles over 24 years and literally millions of miles.

Don't overthink this stuff.
 
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In the early 1990's, I ran a Motorcraft FL-1A to 30,000 miles (3X OCI's) on a late 70's Ford truck,
and recently run a Fram Tough Guard to 50,000 miles on a '08 F150.

If you change the oil frequently, the filter will last a very, very long time.
 
Originally Posted by TrainingPolicy
So with this new change in maintenance should I run the filter to its limits of 10K miles (2 oil changes) or should I run a lower tier 5k filter and change both every time OR upgrade and run a 15k filter and change it after '2 cycles'. I have been tossing around the idea for a little while and I am not sure what would be 'best' for the situation. Let me know your thoughts, thanks!


Depends on how much you want to spend on filters per OCI, and what kind of efficiency you're after. If it was mine, I'd run an Ultra for 2 or 3 5000 OCIs and only have $5 to $3.30 per oil change in a filter I know can take it, and give good flow (ie, low delta-p) and efficiency from the full synthetic media.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
If it was mine, I'd run an Ultra for 2 or 3 5000 OCIs and only have $5 to $3.30 per oil change in a filter I know can take it, and give good flow (ie, low delta-p) and efficiency from the full synthetic media.


I'd run it even longer than that, LOL!
 
Linctex, did you cut open that TG and have the pictures posted? That would be great to see. 53 Stude has posted pics of TGs that he has taken 20K miles on here.

Originally Posted by Linctex
In the early 1990's, I ran a Motorcraft FL-1A to 30,000 miles (3X OCI's) on a late 70's Ford truck,
and recently run a Fram Tough Guard to 50,000 miles on a '08 F150.

If you change the oil frequently, the filter will last a very, very long time.
 
Buy a Fram Ultra or Titanium and run it for as long as you feel comfortable, up to 20,000 miles.

I recently posted pics in two threads of Ultra filters I used, one for 9000 miles on a super dirty engine and another for 13000 miles that could have gone the distance to the full 20,000 miles.
 
No way I would run an oil filter longer than what the filter manufacturer recommends. Why take the chance with a device that only costs a few dollars. You're putting a lot of faith in the bypass valve working like it should. Penny wise and pound foolish.
 
Originally Posted by ToadU
Run the 10,000 mile oil to 10,000 miles and 10,000 mile filter 10k miles......assuming you are out of warranty. Always best to follow the owners manual exactly but if you are committed to 10k and 15k filters why short change? Waste of money. There isn't a for profit business or fleet of vehicles being short changed and running premium filters. The hardest run vehicles get the least maintenance and cheapest fluids and filters and go literally hundreds of thousands of miles. Don't waste your money.

My tow truck and service vehicles fleet we follow the OEM manual to a Tee—which says for severe duty to always follow the OLM— and run the cheapest bulk oils meeting spec. I like Fram jobber filters or orange cans bought in bulk however cost always wins out.....although more often than not we have Fram jobber or orange cans on all vehicles......including my personal vehicles. If I can find a cheaper deal then I buy in bulk. I've had all kinds of filters many I've never heard of before. Never a problem.

I use the same philosophy in my service shop and we maintain city and county police, ambulance and a large portion of the school bus fleets. Always the cheapest parts meeting OEM spec and replaced at OEM intervals. Never a short change unless say a police car is in the service department for something else....alternator....and oil change makes sense to do early just because it's there. That's the only time we would ever short change. Run factory fills to max limits always. Who really knows how ma y hours the police cars idle. It isn't even taken into account and they get driven hard and still no issues. (No oil related issues.....Dodges are true junk so CONSTANT problems.....I've probably made who knows how much money charging the city and county for towing and repairs on Chrysler products!!!!!.......Italian / French now that Pugeot owns them....but they were junk before that....ask any cop)

Had one oil related failure in 24 years and that was a tow truck responding to a vehicle slid off the interstate and ran over a huge piece of 3/4 rebar bent in such a way it punctured the oil pan. By the time the driver realized the engine had seized. That's the sum total of oil related failures in a very large fleet of vehicles over 24 years and literally millions of miles.

Don't overthink this stuff.

Ohhhh, the dislike/HATE against MOPAR just oozes from your pores. GET REAL!!!
 
Get the NAPA Platinum on sale and change every oil change. How much money a year are you saving on oil filters per year?

I hate doing an oil change leaving used oil in the filter and I hate screwing back on a filter I have pulled to dump the used oil. I think the gasket will have set in place after being installed for 5000 miles.
 
Cut open one that has gone 10k and decide if it was still ok. Everything depends on your local situation. and vehicle condition.
 
Originally Posted by TrainingPolicy
I have recently started a side hussle that involves a lot of city driving and stop and go, so I am altering my oil change routine. I am considering going to 5k miles for oil changes. I typically run a 10k mile oil filter and full synthetic oil and change them both at 7500 miles. So with this new change in maintenance should I run the filter to its limits of 10K miles (2 oil changes) or should I run a lower tier 5k filter and change both every time OR upgrade and run a 15k filter and change it after '2 cycles'. I have been tossing around the idea for a little while and I am not sure what would be 'best' for the situation. Let me know your thoughts, thanks!


What filter name/model have you been using? What 10k filter interests you?
Carquest Premium Red / Purolator One / Bosch Distance+ / Napa Gold / Wix / Fram Tough Guard / Force.... all work great for 10k.
AC Delco, Fram EG, Supertech..... are my favorites for 5K, as-is the OEM filter for all-3 of your vehicles.
 
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Originally Posted by BAJA_05
Originally Posted by ToadU
Run the 10,000 mile oil to 10,000 miles and 10,000 mile filter 10k miles......assuming you are out of warranty. Always best to follow the owners manual exactly but if you are committed to 10k and 15k filters why short change? Waste of money. There isn't a for profit business or fleet of vehicles being short changed and running premium filters. The hardest run vehicles get the least maintenance and cheapest fluids and filters and go literally hundreds of thousands of miles. Don't waste your money.

My tow truck and service vehicles fleet we follow the OEM manual to a Tee—which says for severe duty to always follow the OLM— and run the cheapest bulk oils meeting spec. I like Fram jobber filters or orange cans bought in bulk however cost always wins out.....although more often than not we have Fram jobber or orange cans on all vehicles......including my personal vehicles. If I can find a cheaper deal then I buy in bulk. I've had all kinds of filters many I've never heard of before. Never a problem.

I use the same philosophy in my service shop and we maintain city and county police, ambulance and a large portion of the school bus fleets. Always the cheapest parts meeting OEM spec and replaced at OEM intervals. Never a short change unless say a police car is in the service department for something else....alternator....and oil change makes sense to do early just because it's there. That's the only time we would ever short change. Run factory fills to max limits always. Who really knows how ma y hours the police cars idle. It isn't even taken into account and they get driven hard and still no issues. (No oil related issues.....Dodges are true junk so CONSTANT problems.....I've probably made who knows how much money charging the city and county for towing and repairs on Chrysler products!!!!!.......Italian / French now that Pugeot owns them....but they were junk before that....ask any cop)

Had one oil related failure in 24 years and that was a tow truck responding to a vehicle slid off the interstate and ran over a huge piece of 3/4 rebar bent in such a way it punctured the oil pan. By the time the driver realized the engine had seized. That's the sum total of oil related failures in a very large fleet of vehicles over 24 years and literally millions of miles.

Don't overthink this stuff.

Ohhhh, the dislike/HATE against MOPAR just oozes from your pores. GET REAL!!!
Guys that do fleets see stuff beyond our preconceived notions and marketing hype. They get blood from turnips and that is no lie. For example why inn't every semi on the road running syn oil in their engines?
 
Originally Posted by Barkleymut
I love owning Fords, buy Motorcraft filters for $4 each at walmart and change them at 5k. So easy even a mopar guy can do it!


You sure about that?
smile.gif
 
Stop and go city driving = severe service, what does you owners manual suggest for severe service? If you follow that, any oil and filter in spec will work, how ever, it would be nice if we knew what vehicle the OP is asking about.
 
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OP, your new routine sounds very much like severe service so incorporate that into your decision on a new service routine.
Maybe goes without saying but wanted to be sure. Oil and filters are cheap, engines are not.
 
Originally Posted by paulri
Linctex, did you cut open that TG and have the pictures posted? That would be great to see. 53 Stude has posted pics of TGs that he has taken 20K miles on here.
Originally Posted by Linctex
In the early 1990's, I ran a Motorcraft FL-1A to 30,000 miles (3X OCI's) on a late 70's Ford truck, and recently run a Fram Tough Guard to 50,000 miles on a '08 F150.
If you change the oil frequently, the filter will last a very, very long time.
The TG 10358 cartridge I used 25,806 miles came out looking like new, other than obviously oily. There wouldn't be much point in photos, because there's nothing (no defect, no failure, no sludge, no large carbon chunks ... ) that would show up in the photograph.
 
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Hello all, thanks for the replies. The car I am talking about is an 05 Honda accord with the ~240k miles. I have not used any one specific oil brand, just whatever I find cheap and full synthetic. For a filter, I typically run some type of Purolator filter (Bosch, P1). The filter on the car right now is a P1 and the oil is Valvoline HM FS. The oil going into it in the next change is Costco full synthetic (I run 0w-20).

Although I am getting a pretty heavy mix between everyone on running oil filters on 'max length'. If you would like to see a previous filter cut open on the car, I posted one a few months ago, it was a Bosch 3323.
 
Originally Posted by Barkleymut
I love owning Fords, buy Motorcraft filters for $4 each at walmart and change them at 5k. So easy even a mopar guy can do it!

I "heard" the knuckles of Mopar guys actually drag on the ground.
confused2.gif
 
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