MG3 Clutch Change

Joined
Mar 10, 2017
Messages
1,977
Location
South Wales, UK
In todays instalment of 'Cars You Don't Get In The US', my Mothers MG3!

Back in 2021 my Mother decided to retire her '13 Suzuki Jimny as it was getting a bit rough around the edges, and was totally impractical with the impending requirements to look after the grandchildren. The Jimny had been utterly reliable, albeit it a bit thirsty. In the 8 years she owned in she put just shy of 50k on the clock and the only thing that was replaced other than basic servicing needs was the swivel hub bearings at the front. I did the these bearings myself and it cost less than £20 and took a couple of hours out of my day.

My Mother isn't easy on cars, she's a district nurse who works for the national health service and goes to peoples houses to administer care. She's been retired for a few years now but still chooses to work for a few mornings 3 days a week. These often mean lots of very short journeys, often very show speeds and lots of hill starts in the rather vertical valleys of South Wales. Add onto that the daily collection and general taxi services she provides for her grandchildren and it stands to reason that this car gets used and abused.

Maybe a manual isn't best served for a usage case like this? A torque converter auto would make far more sense, surley? But my Mother has always driven manuals (like most in the UK), isn't a fan of automatics and these cheaper, smaller cars aren't often available with an automatic gearbox, or weren't at the time. You see, it was me that selected the MG3. It was available with a chain driven, port injected, 4 cylinder N/A engine and had a 5 year warranty. Also, while there was money available to buy the car outright, MG was offering 0% finance for 5 years. By the time the Suzuki Jimny was part exchanged, the monthly payment was £80/month. An absolute no brainer.

For those curious, this is what an MG3 looks like...
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When my Mum said there was something up with the car and it felt like the clutch was slipping, I didn't believe her. This 4 year old car doesn't have 25k on the clock. The clutch couldn't be worn out. Right? I took it out for a drive and it quickly became apparent that nope, the clutch was most definitely slipping. The clutch pedal was heavy and 'notchy' too. I spoke to our local MG dealer who we purchased the car from and had done all the maintenance since who advised that the clutch would be classed as a wear and tear item and therefore wouldn't be covered under warranty at all, despite the low mileage. I wasn't shocked but it's still somewhat frustrating. My Mother is most certainly hard on cars, but not hard enough to wear a clutch out in such short timescales. The earliest she wore out a clutch was 80k on a MK1 Focus back in the early 2000's.

I've changed a handful of clutches on my driveway now. And every time I make a promise to myself never to do it again, this time was no exception. I'm battered, bruised and covered in cuts and scrapes. The sooner I get my big garage built and get a lift sorted the better!

The aftermarket offers next to no support for the MG3. This surprises me as these things are EVERYWHERE over here. Other than filters and brakes, I struggled to get anything. So all clutch components had to come from the dealer.

I did the clutch change over 3 days. Doing 3 hours on Friday, 3 hours on Saturday and 3 hours yesterday. The car didn't fight me at all with all fixtures and fittings coming out with no issues.

Engine bay before...

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I started by doing all the housekeeping in the enigne bay first. Battery out, battery tray and ECU all out. I unplugged all electrical connectors on the gearbox and popped off the gearbox linkages and slave cylinder.

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I did think this MG logo in the bonnet lining was a nice touch.

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I drained the gearbox oil which looked suprisingly clean. Usually the first drain of any manual gearbox always looks a bit dirtier than this...

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There wasn't much debris on the magnet either...


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Then I dismantled the N/S hub to get the driveshaft out...

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And same again on the O/S...
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I skipped taking photos for a little while at this point while I removed the gearbox mounts, the remainder of the bellhousing bolts and wangled the gearbox out of the car and then followed with removing the clutch itself.

The clutch was worn down to the rivets and the bellhousing thick with clutch dust. The release arm was very stiff also and impossible to move by hand, requiring a tap with a hammer to move. Unfortunately, I also found two grooves from the rivets around the flywheel requiring it's replacement...

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A new flywheel was sourced, and reassembly took place.

I thoroughly cleaned the area behind the flywheel and the end of the crank. I placed the flywheel in position and bolted it down torqueing each bolt to spec. Flywheel was locked in place using an old file between a casting rib on the engine block and the starter ring...

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New clutch installed...

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This is where it gets interesting and the reason for the clutch failure becomes appareant. The new clutch kit came with a new clutch release rod, clutch fork, release bearing and the 3 blastic bushes that the rod sits in. It took me an hour with a hammer and suitable drive to get the old clutch release rod out. It was seized in there solid. But how? It sits in plastic bushes.

Once the rod was out, the two plastic bushes at the top of the bellhousing just popped out as I expected. But the bottom one wouldn't budge at all...

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I ended up having to use a chisel to cut a grove into it which allowed me to fold it inwards and pull it out. At which point, I realised it was covered in thick powdery aluminium corrosion...

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This powdery corrosion was 'squeezing' the bush and the clutch rod within causing it to get stuck. It's at this point I realised it's likely that this was stopping the clutch fully releasing. This in turn causing the clutch to slip and wearing it out prematurely.

I took some time using various wire brushes and scrapers to ensure the hole was squeaky clean...

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And then coated the area in red rubber grease and popped the new bush in...
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New clutch release rod, fork and release bearing all fitted...

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And the gearbox positioned ready to go back in...
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Again, while wangling the gearbox back in with various jacks and bolting it up, and getting driveshafts back in etc I totally forgot to take pictures.

I put the driveshafts back in, reassembled the hubs and changed the front brakes...

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And so, using a bit of fuel hose, a funnel and a bungee cord I filled the gearbox back up with oil...

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I also decided to smother the bottom of the clutch rod in red rubber grease to hope it keeps the water out for a little bit longer. I don't hold out much hope.
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I then dropped the car back on it's wheels, and reassembled the engine bay.

This was actually the easiest clutch change I've done. Helped along by the car being fairly young so no stuck fixings to deal with but also ample room to work. It's just a shame I had to do it so soon.
 
same failure mode as hyundais with that type of release bearing arm. corrosion under the bush. cleaning + copper grease fixes it for the life of the car.
 
same failure mode as hyundais with that type of release bearing arm. corrosion under the bush. cleaning + copper grease fixes it for the life of the car.

I did consider copper grease but it seemed like the wrong thing to use where plastic is involved. I was afraid it would cause the bush to swell or soften and fail again which is why I opted to play it safe and go for the red rubber grease. I did consider some Lanogaurd grease also.
 
Well done, always enjoy your posts with accompanying photos documenting the work.
 
I did consider copper grease but it seemed like the wrong thing to use where plastic is involved. I was afraid it would cause the bush to swell or soften and fail again which is why I opted to play it safe and go for the red rubber grease. I did consider some Lanogaurd grease also.

the copper grease I use doesn't swell rubber. the typical red rubber grease doesn't deal with moisture well
 
Again, while wangling the gearbox back in with various jacks and bolting it up, and getting driveshafts back in etc I totally forgot to take pictures.

I put the driveshafts back in, reassembled the hubs and changed the front brakes...

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And so, using a bit of fuel hose, a funnel and a bungee cord I filled the gearbox back up with oil...

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I also decided to smother the bottom of the clutch rod in red rubber grease to hope it keeps the water out for a little bit longer. I don't hold out much hope.
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I then dropped the car back on it's wheels, and reassembled the engine bay.

This was actually the easiest clutch change I've done. Helped along by the car being fairly young so no stuck fixings to deal with but also ample room to work. It's just a shame I had to do it so soon.
Nice write up. Did you go online and see if this is a common problem with that vehicle? If so maybe people could get mg to foot the bill. Who owns MG now, didn't they get bought by a Chinese company?
 
Nice write up. Did you go online and see if this is a common problem with that vehicle? If so maybe people could get mg to foot the bill. Who owns MG now, didn't they get bought by a Chinese company?

It is a common problem, although usually the clutch pedal gets stuck to the floor and there's little harm to the clutch plate itself. This failure mode seems to be a little less common but I have seen it a few times when doing some research.

I sent the following email to MG yesterday...

Dear Sir/Madam,

I am writing to raise a formal complaint regarding a premature clutch failure on our MG3, registration CE21 BTO, which I was caused by a design defect and should therefore have been covered under warranty.

The vehicle is only four years old and has covered just 24,000 miles—well within the expected service life of a modern clutch. When we contacted our local MG dealer, we were informed that the clutch is classified as a wear-and-tear item and therefore not eligible for warranty repair. However, upon inspecting the failed components during the replacement (which I carried out myself as an experienced engineer), I discovered a clear mechanical fault unrelated to driver usage or normal clutch wear.

Specifically, the failure originated from corrosion forming around the lower nylon pivot bush of the clutch release arm. This corrosion caused the arm to seize within its housing, restricting proper operation of the clutch release bearing and ultimately resulting in excessive wear on the pressure plate. This is not a wear issue—it is a design issue, as the pivot appears insufficiently protected against moisture ingress.

This failure mechanism is not unique to this vehicle. I have found several other MG3 owners reporting the exact same issue online:
  • A Facebook MG3 owner wrote:
    “This is a common failure point on these cars – the aluminium corrodes and pushes the plastic bushing against the release bearing arm…”
  • A YouTube video documenting a similar repair describes:
    “…Corrosion between the gearbox casing and bush causes the release arm to seize…”
  • On the MG-Rover.org forum, one user reported:
    “He had to remove both the clutch and gearbox to get at the bushes and clean up the corrosion…”
  • Another MG3 owner posted:
    “Morning folks, my 15 plate MG3 has finally succumbed to the sticking down clutch pedal due to the lever arm bush failing.”
We have also written about the issue in detail, including photographic evidence and a technical breakdown of the failure along with the repair, which is publicly available on a forum I am a member of which you can see HERE.

As this is a known and repeatable mechanical failure caused by design vulnerability—not driver misuse—I believe MG should have addressed this under warranty. I am therefore requesting reimbursement for the cost of the replacement parts which were all purchased from MG dealers totalling £366.31. All invoices are attached to this email for your attention.

I would appreciate your response and a resolution within 14 days. Failing this, I will consider escalating the issue to The Motor Ombudsman or another appropriate consumer protection body.

I'll advise how they respond.
 
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