MG-30-ATF BYPASS FILTER

[P]

I am considering running a MG-30-ATF BYPASS FILTER between the oil pressure sender and the dipstick tube.

What is the best way to secure the return line to the dipstick tube?

I understand that the MG-30-ATF is not normally hooked up this way because of the larger than normal loss of oil due to the 1/8" orifice DRILLED INTERNALLY--but I plan on installing a BALL VALVE on the return line to regulate oil flow. Then I can adjust the oil loss(maximum oil loss would be 2 quarts/min) depending on the maximum oil temp achieved during driving. This would be needed for winter driving where the max oil temp is less than for summer.

Anybody see any problems with this setup?

If anybody is wondering WHY I am considering the MG-ATF-30 filter for engine oil it is because of the 1/8" internal orifice bypass--it allow the filter to heat up faster (as opposed to a bypass filter with just an orifice)--therefore increasing the filtering ability for short trips

 

[mjo]

quote:

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What is the best way to secure the return line to the dipstick tube?

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Alright, I haven't done this yet (mine's attached to the oil pan) but love to tinker and was thinking about doing this myself. The first thing I would do is, assuming that the max flow is 2q/ min, to see how fast 2q actually flows through the dipstick tube, with the use of a funnel of course. I would be weary of drilling into the dipstick tube b/c the tube is probably very thin, it is on my car anyway. Instead, my advice is to use a rubber hose & shove it into the dipstick tube.

 

[P]

Actually, I mistakenly referred to my as the dipstick tube. The dipstick tube is separate My oil filler tube is about 1 1/2" wide with a rubber cap so there shouldn't be any problem with it handling 2qts/min of oil.

 

[P]

Having problems with posting my reply. Anyway, I have an OIL FILLER TUBE that will handle 2qts/min of oil easily. The diameter is about 1 1/2" with a rubber cap. Maybe I'll notch out the rubber cap and shove the return line into the tube.

 

[mjo]

In that case, I'd install a swivel fitting to the oil cap and attach your outlet hose to this fitting.

 

[RalphPWood]

The Motor Guard ATF filter will only work at high flow rates such as in the ATF line to the radiator cooler or for motor oil when using a Perma-Cool sandwicb adapter. When the flow rate is low all the oil will go thru the 1/8" bypass orifice and none will go thru the element. My large LF 750 filter will work with an element bypass orifice because the bypass orifice is very small like about 1/32". I have a 1/16" orifice at the inlet on the big filter. The element is so large that there is no resistance. The bypass orifice is mostly to bleed air out of the big housing after you change the element. I could drill the M-30 with a slightly smaller bypass orifice than 1/16" and it would probably work. I do that on the large paper towel filters at work to reduce the pressure on the element. When filtering glycol in the big chillers you can end up with the towels compressed so much that you can't get them out of the housing. The large Fleetguard filters won't have that problem because they are designed to filter from the outside into the center like the old bypass filters such as Fram before about 1953. If you want to experiment try drilling a .040 bypass orifice in the flat part at the bottom above the inlet, put a groove in the core so that it won't close off the flow. I am putting copper cores in the new M-30's for oil and ATF. They won't come off very well. I will add a Nylatron washer with a groove in it for the ATF filter. The best thing is to let me do the experimenting, it is less expensive. I have already made the mistakes.

Ralph