Melling Timing Kit 5.4 3V vs fear of non-OEM parts

[Brons2]

So this week I bought a Melling timing kit for my Ford 5.4 3V engine, I got the kit with the cast iron tensioners, guides, chains and crank sprocket. I also got the Melling high volume oil pump since I'm taking off the crank sprocket anyway. The timing kit didn't include the phasers or VCT solenoids but I am not having any problems with those so I was hoping to put those off a few months. It is ticking a bit on startup so I wanted to take care of the tensioners and figured I'd switch out the guides and chains at the same time, as well as the crank sprocket and the oil pump. FYI, you can use the cheese wedge tool to slacken the chain in order to change out the phasers later without taking off the front cover, so that's what I'm thinking to do when I save up some more money.

Now, I'm having 2nd thoughts about the Melling chains and guides. I saw FordTechMakuloco's latest video on YouTube where someone had done an aftermarket timing job using what looked to be the Dorman kit and the guides were chewed up after only 20,000 miles. There seems to be so many dire warnings on his channel and other places on the Internet about only using OEM parts on this engine. Yet, FTM does use the Melling oil pumps on these 5.4 3Vs so what gives? I thought Melling was a quality brand. I also purchased the M360HV oil pump since I am planning on taking the front cover off.

I dunno, but I am having a crisis of confidence on this kit. I am thinking of sending it back and getting the OEM chains and guides, but I still want to use the cast iron tensioners, and the Melling oil pump. I could buy the cast iron tensioners separately without the kit, and use the Ford guides and chains.

I just don't want to have to open the front cover again after 20,000 miles, period. Is this fear of having the Melling kit not last very long rational? It is the Melling "Professional Grade" kit that I got, not the "Service Grade" one. Maybe the folks that have had problems didn't put it on right? I do have appropriate tools like an inch-lbs torque wrench.

 

[Lapham3]

I don't know about lately, but Melling and Elgin have been OEM suppliers of timing components for many years.

 

[The Critic]

Before doing any of this work, have you tested the oil pressure?

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Melling has always made good quality parts. When I used to build engines I would use their oil pumps exclusively. I have also used their timing components as well.

 

[Trav]

What is the COO on the boxes? The USA made stuff is fine but some of their (and Cloyes) Chicom stuff is a bit sketchy especially the guides.

 

[Timmastertech]

Second the Critics question. Before going into a 5.4 3v it is imperative to check oil pressure on a hot engine. If you dont have 30PSI hot at the oil pressure sensor or oil filter ya arent going to fix it.

 

[Trav]

What is the problem with them the heads where the cam rides? I don't know much about this engine I have done 2v ones year ago.

 

[Brons2]

What is the problem with them the heads where the cam rides? I don't know much about this engine I have done 2v ones year ago.

The tensioner seals fail and leak out pressure, and the oil pumps get questionable with age because they're all aluminum. Top end gets starved for oil, especially passenger side bank. Result is cam galling, failed roller followers, and worse if parts get loose and start flying around, can drop a valve then you got huge carnage.

To answer the question, no haven't tested oil pressure manually. I don't have any drivability concerns, runs great, just an occasional mild ticking at cold startup for a few seconds, and I am an anal retentive BITOGer.

30 psi seems like an unrealistic expectation. I mean I don't want to say people are wrong because this is my first go at one of these 5.4s. But I've rebuilt more than a few pushrod V8s and I would never consider opening those up unless they had less than 20psi hot. Granted, this is an OHC motor. But still 30psi seems high to me as a condemnation line.

What's the Ford spec?

 

[Timmastertech]

the 3 valve is a wildly different animal than a pushrod v8. fords spec is 25 psi at hot idle. takes 16 at the right number one cam journal to make the vvt sprocket function. experience says vvt rattle occurs at 30 or less at hot idle at the oil filter.

 

[Brons2]

I'm not having VVT rattle at hot idle that I am aware of. What does it sound like?

 

[2EHA]

I'm not having VVT rattle at hot idle that I am aware of. What does it sound like?

a powerstroke

 

[sloinker]

The last Melling cam I bought was built in Mexico but the lifters were from the USA or the inverse. They looked better than the crap Comp Cams is putting out nowadays. I would use them without fear.

 

[Trav]

The tensioner seals fail and leak out pressure, and the oil pumps get questionable with age because they're all aluminum. Top end gets starved for oil, especially passenger side bank. Result is cam galling, failed roller followers, and worse if parts get loose and start flying around, can drop a valve then you got huge carnage.

To answer the question, no haven't tested oil pressure manually. I don't have any drivability concerns, runs great, just an occasional mild ticking at cold startup for a few seconds, and I am an anal retentive BITOGer.

30 psi seems like an unrealistic expectation. I mean I don't want to say people are wrong because this is my first go at one of these 5.4s. But I've rebuilt more than a few pushrod V8s and I would never consider opening those up unless they had less than 20psi hot. Granted, this is an OHC motor. But still 30psi seems high to me as a condemnation line.

What's the Ford spec?

Thanks for that info. Like I say other than basic maintenance I am not that familiar with them but a few hours going through the FSM is all it would take to get the skinny on the engine. Looking at it it seems cam journal scoring may be an issue when pressure gets low and replacing the head(s) is the only solution to it. More than that I don't want to know. LOL

As far as the original Mellings question goes, I was looking at an ecotec tensioner they sell and it is Chinese and subpar when compared to the German or Czech made OE, I remember buying it and couldnt return it because I waited too long so I tossed it.

 

[Timmastertech]

Thanks for that info. Like I say other than basic maintenance I am not that familiar with them but a few hours going through the FSM is all it would take to get the skinny on the engine. Looking at it it seems cam journal scoring may be an issue when pressure gets low and replacing the head(s) is the only solution to it. More than that I don't want to know. LOL

As far as the original Mellings question goes, I was looking at an ecotec tensioner they sell and it is Chinese and subpar when compared to the German or Czech made OE, I remember buying it and couldnt return it because I waited too long so I tossed it.

Its not even so much the scoring in the heads as it is tolerance stack through the entire engine. The right timing chain tensioner is the last thing in the engine that gets oil, right VVT is inline before it. 5-10 years ago when those trucks first really started exhibiting problems a good friend of mine was a service manager at a Ford dealer. He made it his mission to figure out how to fix one of those trucks with phaser rattle. He went as far on one as new (not reman) Ford cylinder heads and cams, and plumbing an external oil line from I think the oil pressure sensor to the right head oil galley and a high volume oil pump. It didnt fix that one and he wound up putting an engine in it.

He stripped that engine bare on an engine stand and started measuring (he had some machinist experience as well). There was nothing out of spec but a lot close to out of spec. Our conclusion is that the tolerances and wear stacking up was enough to drop oil pressure to the right head. His experiments are also where the 30 PSI hot comes from. He found if they had one with chain or phaser rattle and over 30 at the filter hot, it would live after new timing parts. If 25-30 it was going to rattle when it was done and set vvt codes.

 

[Trav]

That is interesting! So basically the whole engine becomes loose (all clearances almost out of spec) if I understand correctly.
What if anything can be do to prevent this happening if caught early enough?
I remember old Buick engines with the cover mounted pump could be retrofit with a bowtie shaped 10 thou insert, spacer, longer gears and cover to boost pressure making the engine live more than double, later some companies came out with a new design cover and pump for them.

 

[Timmastertech]

Honestly its maintenance maintenance maintenance. We do 3k intervals on these engines. The customers that we have that serviced them every 3k from new have had zero problems. My customers that have chosen to ignore my recommendation have needed engines

 

[Trav]

+1 All my engines are on 3-5K OCI depending on what it is.

 

[Cujet]

The guys in South Florida use 10W-40 synthetic oil. The higher viscosity is not a problem because there are no freezing cold starts here. I've been using 10W-30 syn in mine with good results. 5K changes, 160K so far, no probs and don't expect any.

 

[clinebarger]

The last several Melling 3V timing Kit's I've bought have had OE parts with the FoMoCo ground off.

 

[Brons2]

What is the COO on the boxes? The USA made stuff is fine but some of their (and Cloyes) Chicom stuff is a bit sketchy especially the guides.

Been out of town but got back today. Timing components are labeled Made in the USA.