A friend's daughter opened their door hard onto my Volvo putting a nasty scratch on the door. I stopped at Advance and bought some Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0. It took the scratch out completely; it's totally gone without a trace. I highly recommend the product. There were other scratch products including one from Nu Finish. They may work as well, but I bought the one that the Advance employee recommended.
Meguiar's Scratch X
- Thread starter teddyboy
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Yep, it's a great product. Been using it since they came out with it almost a decade ago.
Agreed. Actually I've had it on my todo list for a while to post here about this product. I think my Subaru has the weakest paint of any vehicle I've had (either that or the scratches just show up much worse because it's the darkest colored one I've hard). I put some pretty good scratches in it once while washing it, and my dog has done it once or twice by jumping up on it when I got home (when he was a puppy). Scratch-X made it good as new.
I also used it along with a white vinegar solution to help get out some persistent water spots.
I also used it along with a white vinegar solution to help get out some persistent water spots.
+4.
It's a super mild spot polishing compound/polish mix that is just about harmless to auto paints.
I'll use it for difficult surface contamination, light haze, swirls and cobwebs, for gauging how severe more difficult scratches are, and for feathering in some touch ups.
Also works well on untreated glass surfaces as a mild polish.
Sometimes it works great. Other times, the problem requires something more aggressive. But it always improves things if only a little. It has never made a problem worse in all the time we have resorted to it.
It's a super mild spot polishing compound/polish mix that is just about harmless to auto paints.
I'll use it for difficult surface contamination, light haze, swirls and cobwebs, for gauging how severe more difficult scratches are, and for feathering in some touch ups.
Also works well on untreated glass surfaces as a mild polish.
Sometimes it works great. Other times, the problem requires something more aggressive. But it always improves things if only a little. It has never made a problem worse in all the time we have resorted to it.
+5
Meguiars has been my goto brand for polishes and compounds since I received the 3 step deep crystal system as a gift 15 years ago.
Meguiars has been my goto brand for polishes and compounds since I received the 3 step deep crystal system as a gift 15 years ago.
Originally Posted By: GatorJoe
I just used it for the first time today on my Jag and I'm very impressed. The hairline scratches are no longer visible. A couple of deeper scratches are barely visible. If it's a coverup product, we'll see how long it lasts....
Well, it didn't last long at all. The morning dew the following day revealed appearance inconsistencies under the dew so that night I washed the car, saw the scraches again, and re-applied the wax. Either the product is a cover up or my scraches are deep.
Perhaps the product works for others so I won't knock it, but it didn't work for my application.
At this point I'll try using it on my daughter's UV-faded headlights since I've heard that's a possibility with this product.
I just used it for the first time today on my Jag and I'm very impressed. The hairline scratches are no longer visible. A couple of deeper scratches are barely visible. If it's a coverup product, we'll see how long it lasts....
Well, it didn't last long at all. The morning dew the following day revealed appearance inconsistencies under the dew so that night I washed the car, saw the scraches again, and re-applied the wax. Either the product is a cover up or my scraches are deep.
Perhaps the product works for others so I won't knock it, but it didn't work for my application.
At this point I'll try using it on my daughter's UV-faded headlights since I've heard that's a possibility with this product.
Originally Posted By: GatorJoe
Either the product is a cover up or my scraches are deep.
Perhaps the product works for others so I won't knock it, but it didn't work for my application.
It's supposed to be more than a coverup, but I haven't actually used the product to verify that. I've used Meguiar's Swirl Remover, which I know works. That's a product with a similar purpose to the Scratch X, but in their more "professional" line.
Either the product is a cover up or my scraches are deep.
Perhaps the product works for others so I won't knock it, but it didn't work for my application.
It's supposed to be more than a coverup, but I haven't actually used the product to verify that. I've used Meguiar's Swirl Remover, which I know works. That's a product with a similar purpose to the Scratch X, but in their more "professional" line.
Can't say I'm a big fan of ScratchX or SwirlX (or Ultimate Polish, for that matter). I'd much rather have something closer to Ultimate Compound with a lighter pad, which from my experience is much easier to use (and albeit a bit more aggressive).
Originally Posted By: bigmike
Can't say I'm a big fan of ScratchX or SwirlX (or Ultimate Polish, for that matter). I'd much rather have something closer to Ultimate Compound with a lighter pad, which from my experience is much easier to use (and albeit a bit more aggressive).
I almost always start with the Ultimate Compound as the Scratch-X just isn't course enough to cut...then I'll finish with Scratch-X...
Can't say I'm a big fan of ScratchX or SwirlX (or Ultimate Polish, for that matter). I'd much rather have something closer to Ultimate Compound with a lighter pad, which from my experience is much easier to use (and albeit a bit more aggressive).
I almost always start with the Ultimate Compound as the Scratch-X just isn't course enough to cut...then I'll finish with Scratch-X...
Originally Posted By: grampi
I love Meguiar's scratch removers, but can't stand their finish waxes/sealers. For that I prefer products like Duragloss, Klasse, Zaino, and Collinite....
Agreed 100%. Love Duragloss and Collonite though
As for ScratchX, it's definitely for defect removal and not just a coverup product. First off, run your finger nail over the scratches and if your fingernail catches in the scratch then it's to deep to remove. There can be many reasons a polish doesnt work. It may not be aggressive enough, it may not have been worked long enough, may need more then one application...etc. Before going out and purchasing a more aggressive product like 105 or Ultimate Compound you could try going over the area a few more times with the ScratchX. Use a good amount of product and work it in very well, it's going to take a lot of rubbing to remove the defects, continue working it until it goes clear then wipe with your microfiber. Next wipe with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water to see if the scratches have been removed. If not repeat the process a few more times, if they are still there then you will need to purchase a more aggressive product. Hope this helps and remember to have fun
I love Meguiar's scratch removers, but can't stand their finish waxes/sealers. For that I prefer products like Duragloss, Klasse, Zaino, and Collinite....
Agreed 100%. Love Duragloss and Collonite though
As for ScratchX, it's definitely for defect removal and not just a coverup product. First off, run your finger nail over the scratches and if your fingernail catches in the scratch then it's to deep to remove. There can be many reasons a polish doesnt work. It may not be aggressive enough, it may not have been worked long enough, may need more then one application...etc. Before going out and purchasing a more aggressive product like 105 or Ultimate Compound you could try going over the area a few more times with the ScratchX. Use a good amount of product and work it in very well, it's going to take a lot of rubbing to remove the defects, continue working it until it goes clear then wipe with your microfiber. Next wipe with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water to see if the scratches have been removed. If not repeat the process a few more times, if they are still there then you will need to purchase a more aggressive product. Hope this helps and remember to have fun
Originally Posted By: Fsatsil
Originally Posted By: grampi
I love Meguiar's scratch removers, but can't stand their finish waxes/sealers. For that I prefer products like Duragloss, Klasse, Zaino, and Collinite....
Agreed 100%. Love Duragloss and Collonite though
As for ScratchX, it's definitely for defect removal and not just a coverup product. First off, run your finger nail over the scratches and if your fingernail catches in the scratch then it's to deep to remove. There can be many reasons a polish doesnt work. It may not be aggressive enough, it may not have been worked long enough, may need more then one application...etc. Before going out and purchasing a more aggressive product like 105 or Ultimate Compound you could try going over the area a few more times with the ScratchX. Use a good amount of product and work it in very well, it's going to take a lot of rubbing to remove the defects, continue working it until it goes clear then wipe with your microfiber. Next wipe with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water to see if the scratches have been removed. If not repeat the process a few more times, if they are still there then you will need to purchase a more aggressive product. Hope this helps and remember to have fun
I have found the Scratch-X to be too mild for removing anything except the micro-fine spider web marks, usually caused by using something other than microfiber cloths. Anything larger usually requires the the use of the Ultimate Compound to remover, then I will use the Scratch-X to remove the scratches left by the UC...that usually works fairly well...
Originally Posted By: grampi
I love Meguiar's scratch removers, but can't stand their finish waxes/sealers. For that I prefer products like Duragloss, Klasse, Zaino, and Collinite....
Agreed 100%. Love Duragloss and Collonite though
As for ScratchX, it's definitely for defect removal and not just a coverup product. First off, run your finger nail over the scratches and if your fingernail catches in the scratch then it's to deep to remove. There can be many reasons a polish doesnt work. It may not be aggressive enough, it may not have been worked long enough, may need more then one application...etc. Before going out and purchasing a more aggressive product like 105 or Ultimate Compound you could try going over the area a few more times with the ScratchX. Use a good amount of product and work it in very well, it's going to take a lot of rubbing to remove the defects, continue working it until it goes clear then wipe with your microfiber. Next wipe with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water to see if the scratches have been removed. If not repeat the process a few more times, if they are still there then you will need to purchase a more aggressive product. Hope this helps and remember to have fun
I have found the Scratch-X to be too mild for removing anything except the micro-fine spider web marks, usually caused by using something other than microfiber cloths. Anything larger usually requires the the use of the Ultimate Compound to remover, then I will use the Scratch-X to remove the scratches left by the UC...that usually works fairly well...
You really can't remove a scratch,you can only remove material from the surrounding area until the scratch is harder to see. Removing clearcoat is not a good idea. There is a system I have seen in Auto (every other) Week which claims to allow good touch up paint matching but I haven't used it. Perhaps someone will post on it.
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
You really can't remove a scratch,you can only remove material from the surrounding area until the scratch is harder to see. Removing clearcoat is not a good idea. There is a system I have seen in Auto (every other) Week which claims to allow good touch up paint matching but I haven't used it. Perhaps someone will post on it.
You are correct, and whether it's a good idea or not really depends on the type of paint job you're working with. Most factory paint jobs have very thin clearcoats, so you need to be very careful using abrasives on them. Custom paint jobs tend to have much thicker clearcoats and can take a lot more in terms of scratch removal.
You really can't remove a scratch,you can only remove material from the surrounding area until the scratch is harder to see. Removing clearcoat is not a good idea. There is a system I have seen in Auto (every other) Week which claims to allow good touch up paint matching but I haven't used it. Perhaps someone will post on it.
You are correct, and whether it's a good idea or not really depends on the type of paint job you're working with. Most factory paint jobs have very thin clearcoats, so you need to be very careful using abrasives on them. Custom paint jobs tend to have much thicker clearcoats and can take a lot more in terms of scratch removal.
Originally Posted By: grampi
I have found the Scratch-X to be too mild for removing anything except the micro-fine spider web marks, usually caused by using something other than microfiber cloths. Anything larger usually requires the the use of the Ultimate Compound to remover, then I will use the Scratch-X to remove the scratches left by the UC...that usually works fairly well...
ScratchX 2.0 is very mild but it really all depends on the paint. My Hondas paint is so soft I've never needed anything stronger then ScratchX 2.0 by hand, but on the Vette I can't even remove minor swirling by hand and I have to break out the Porter Cable and the 105 or Ultimate Compound. The worst by far though is Mercedes Benz paint with the ceramic clear coat, that stuff is sooo [censored] hard!
I have found the Scratch-X to be too mild for removing anything except the micro-fine spider web marks, usually caused by using something other than microfiber cloths. Anything larger usually requires the the use of the Ultimate Compound to remover, then I will use the Scratch-X to remove the scratches left by the UC...that usually works fairly well...
ScratchX 2.0 is very mild but it really all depends on the paint. My Hondas paint is so soft I've never needed anything stronger then ScratchX 2.0 by hand, but on the Vette I can't even remove minor swirling by hand and I have to break out the Porter Cable and the 105 or Ultimate Compound. The worst by far though is Mercedes Benz paint with the ceramic clear coat, that stuff is sooo [censored] hard!
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
You really can't remove a scratch,you can only remove material from the surrounding area until the scratch is harder to see. Removing clearcoat is not a good idea. There is a system I have seen in Auto (every other) Week which claims to allow good touch up paint matching but I haven't used it. Perhaps someone will post on it.
Is this the stuff your talking about? Dr. ColorChip
You really can't remove a scratch,you can only remove material from the surrounding area until the scratch is harder to see. Removing clearcoat is not a good idea. There is a system I have seen in Auto (every other) Week which claims to allow good touch up paint matching but I haven't used it. Perhaps someone will post on it.
Is this the stuff your talking about? Dr. ColorChip
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