The point is you thought out of the box and got the job done. I would hope a shop would have at least one guy that could think out of the box and get the job done.
Mechanic couldn't get brake rotor off?
- Thread starter The motor guy
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Sounds like he may have neglected to remove the retaining bolt. May be hard to notice under a bunch of rust.
Like @Trav suggested, the sawzall trick will break the tension and get it free as a last resort. You have to pull the caliper to gain access to both sides of the rotor. A good brand of recip saw blade will cut through a rotor like butter.
I'm a bit shocked two different auto repair shops couldn't get a rotor free? This is a daily thing where I'm from. Sorry if I missed it, but this must not be a rust belt area?
I'm a bit shocked two different auto repair shops couldn't get a rotor free? This is a daily thing where I'm from. Sorry if I missed it, but this must not be a rust belt area?
I have to do rear rotors on the Grand Marquis. They're delaminating. Unfortunately I can't get the brake shoes to back off enough to clear the hat. I did buy new shoes and hardware ( I like having parking brakes ) but don't want to go ape *"'= getting the rotor off. I've done that before and ruined up the backing plate.
Its overkill but I think ill end up pulling the shafts and backing plates. Then once its all out, figure out how to get apart.
Of course that will turn into new wheel bearings and axle seals...
Its overkill but I think ill end up pulling the shafts and backing plates. Then once its all out, figure out how to get apart.
Of course that will turn into new wheel bearings and axle seals...
Use a brake drum puller, you may be able to rent one. If the shoe is delaminating it will come out with the drum leaving the metal shoe mounted.
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I usually give the 3 or 4 whacks with a 5lb sledge. If the don't pop after that I take a torch and make a couple passes around the hub. They usually fall off on their own.
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No first try was at a buddy's place. It's at a real shop now. I do have an appointment at a 3rd shop on Monday if it comes to that.
Now, with that being said the third shop pissed me off though, because I told them I had some front end issues and to inspect the front end. This place is appointment only, so I've been waiting 3 weeks to get in and I'm just driving my other truck In the mean time, so the other day I noticed the brakes needed replaced and I called and asked if they had any sooner openings, this is when I find out that they don't consider a brake job front end work.
This is when I call my buddy and we have a looksie as to what's actually wrong with it. Looks like it needs and inner tie rod end, one brake rotor and a wheel bearing. Not as bad as I thought.
Bill taught me 25 years ago to apply a thin layer of Permatex Anti-Seize on the interface between the hub and the rotor. The next time you take them off, you can usually just pull them off with your hands. Same applies to wheel bearings, but you can't pull them off with your hands 
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A rotor has never been off in 15 years, doubt they put antiseize on at the factory. See the problem here?Bill taught me 25 years ago to apply a thin layer of Permatex Anti-Seize on the interface between the hub and the rotor. The next time you take them off, you can usually just pull them off with your hands. Same applies to wheel bearings, but you can't pull them off with your hands
Yep, good luck
I use Fluid Film for the same reason. Always goes between hub and rotor every time I remove the rotor. Works like a charm.Bill taught me 25 years ago to apply a thin layer of Permatex Anti-Seize on the interface between the hub and the rotor. The next time you take them off, you can usually just pull them off with your hands. Same applies to wheel bearings, but you can't pull them off with your hands
Wife's Equinox put up quite a battle to get the front rotors off, pounding with a small sledge wouldn't budge them. Lots of PB Blaster around the lugs, and finally got them off after removing the caliper, putting some smaller bolts through the mounting holes (not the same thread), threading some nuts on to the bolts on the inboard side of the mount, then using the nuts to push between the caliper mount and the back of the rotor. They got pretty tight, but eventually started hearing some "tinks". Loosened the nuts, rotated the rotor 180 degrees, tried again, and eventually got it off.
I had one stuck on my 07 Ram and I put a piece of 4x4 post between the rotor and the frame. Started the motor and turned the steering wheel and it popped right off. Its simple and easier than all that beating.
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Might end up bending the frame doing that.
Its been a talking point about spraying or lubing the rotor/hub faces since you are modifying the friction of the bolted joint. With that said im sure the safety factor on this joint is pretty high. If your lugs don't loosen then its probably good
For my jeep which see's water/mud..etc I anti-seize everything I can when I take anything apart. I keep the rotor face dry and only do a tiny bit on ID and keep most of the face dry and clean.
Luckily in Florida Ive never had to cut any rotors yet
Hammer > Heat > Cut
Yeah, I get that.Its been a talking point about spraying or lubing the rotor/hub faces since you are modifying the friction of the bolted joint. With that said im sure the safety factor on this joint is pretty high. If your lugs don't loosen then its probably good
For my jeep which see's water/mud..etc I anti-seize everything I can when I take anything apart. I keep the rotor face dry and only do a tiny bit on ID and keep most of the face dry and clean.
Luckily in Florida Ive never had to cut any rotors yet
Hammer > Heat > Cut
It’s how I settled on zinc primer. No decrease in friction. Thin enough coat to avoid runout problems.
But in Florida, you don’t see the rust problems of areas that salt their roads deliberately, or in my case, submerge them in salt water, so not doing anything is an acceptable alternative.
But where the OP is living, not doing anything leads to exactly the problem he is having.
Yeah I can see that potentially being a problem. I check my lugs with a torque wrench 50-60 miles after I put them on, and I haven't had any of them come loose yet, and they're always tight when I take them off for the next service. So far so good.Its been a talking point about spraying or lubing the rotor/hub faces since you are modifying the friction of the bolted joint. With that said im sure the safety factor on this joint is pretty high. If your lugs don't loosen then its probably good
For my jeep which see's water/mud..etc I anti-seize everything I can when I take anything apart. I keep the rotor face dry and only do a tiny bit on ID and keep most of the face dry and clean.
Luckily in Florida Ive never had to cut any rotors yet
Hammer > Heat > Cut
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I'm in the south
Ah, OK. Thanks.
Still, where things rust, like my house, a minute of prep saves hours of difficulty years from now…
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