MB 7 Speed transmission fill adapter

Joined
Sep 20, 2003
Messages
1,795
Location
Austin, TX
I am about to tackle the transmission flush on the MB GLE which has a 7 speed.
All parts from PCP Euro but I recieved the adapter to push fluid into the pan and the hole is less than 1/4".
Anyone who has tackled this could someone tell me the best way to push fluid into the pan - if I were to pump the fluid, it could take a hr to push through 5L into the pan and have to do this twice as I am attempting to do a return line flush from the cooler lines on the radiator. What a moron would engineer something like this, best had a fill bolt on the top and still have it sealed, over engineering and making it insane to push 5L via adpater hole that is so small

Any thoughts...
 
Last edited:
You need a pressurized or hand pump fluid fill device to use with the adapter.

Also, MB requires filter change at every service for warranty compliance. Wallet flush won't cut it here.
 
Agreed. I will possibly be using my hand pump but the idea of pumping 10L through is making me wonder the efficacy of such engineering marvels.

Yes, the filter will have to be replaced given the fact the level straw isn't screwed into the pan, it was intentional on the part of MB engineers to force function a pan drop.
 
You are right the #109, the hole is less than 1/4", it would take me an hr to hand pump through. I would shop for one that can be hooked up to my compressor to push the fluid through.
 
Different perspectives, but I find it a pretty cool design. What a simple method to get the right level of ATF in the system. And your concern about time to get it in there is not needed. It only takes a few minutes.

I use a 2 gallon garden sprayer that I bought just for filling ATF fluid. I replaced the hose with heavier hose and added a ball valve on the hose. But if I were to do it again, I would buy a pump with fittings, like this.

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Transm...cphy=9029819&hvtargid=pla-2281435179578&psc=1

From filling my pump with ATF, pumping it up, attaching it to the adapter, and opening the valve, it probably takes less than 10 minutes.
 
I did a transmission service on my 7sp w204 with that fill adapter from fcp euro. To fill the transmission I used one of those $8 orange transfer pumps from harbor freight. The adapter fits in the hose and I used a clamp for kicks. It’s not that slow, besides you’re pumping it in while the car warms up anyway so it’s not a big deal. The pump is pretty cheesy but it will get the job done.
 
I did a transmission service on my 7sp w204 with that fill adapter from fcp euro. To fill the transmission I used one of those $8 orange transfer pumps from harbor freight. The adapter fits in the hose and I used a clamp for kicks. It’s not that slow, besides you’re pumping it in while the car warms up anyway so it’s not a big deal. The pump is pretty cheesy but it will get the job done.

Exactly what do you infer by saying car is warm (the whole process is done on a cold engine). I intend to drop the pan - refill via the adapater like its a pee hole 5L. then remove the C c;lamp on the hot line into the radiator, connect a hose and run the car until no fluid comes out. Then refill 5L do measurements and then get it to 110F and level it off. IThis procedure is like a return line flush but removing the line that goes intot he radaitor because there is an o-ring inside the radiator that I don't want to push it into the radaiator by sticking in a clear hose, I rather take the hot line and connect a clear hose onto the metal end and flush the unit
 
Exactly what do you infer by saying car is warm (the whole process is done on a cold engine). I intend to drop the pan - refill via the adapater like its a pee hole 5L. then remove the C c;lamp on the hot line into the radiator, connect a hose and run the car until no fluid comes out. Then refill 5L do measurements and then get it to 110F and level it off. IThis procedure is like a return line flush but removing the line that goes intot he radaitor because there is an o-ring inside the radiator that I don't want to push it into the radaiator by sticking in a clear hose, I rather take the hot line and connect a clear hose onto the metal end and flush the unit
I installed the pan, pump in a couple liters with the engine off, then start it up and continue filling, once it’s full, put the plug back in once it’s at the right temperature. I didn’t mess around with the radiator.
 
Thanks James. Question for the experts, there is a YELLOW and BLUE markings on the cooler lines, but the bottom line is marked BLUE and is hotter than the top YELLOW line. Am I reading this wrong, isn't BLUE the return line (cooled ATF back to transmission).

Any help would be appreciated, I don't want to open the wrong line and spew ATF all over the engine.
 
By removing both transmission cooler lines from the radiator, I can identify which one is the return line. This approach also allows for draining the transmission fluid more effectively—by briefly running the engine with the lines disconnected, a significant portion of the fluid in the pan can be evacuated before dropping the pan itself.

Many online videos show a messy process with fluid spilling onto people and the floor. This method reduces that mess. Once the pan is mostly empty, I plan to drop the pan, replace the transmission filter, and then refill the system through the top return line rather than pumping fluid from the bottom.

After the initial refill, I’ll run the engine again to purge an additional 5L of old fluid, then refill another 5L. Using the return line for refilling is cleaner and more controlled compared to bottom-filling methods.
 
Finished up the AT flush - took out 5Q through the pan drop and 4Q flushed via return line.
Interestingly found only one magnet with very lttle grime vs. two detailed on the web.
The line pushing fluid to the radiator is the top cooler line right next to the headlight.
 
Back
Top Bottom