Mazda 0w-20 with Moly - What's the recommendation in 2026?

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Hi all, long time reader but just signed up for the forum.

I bought a 2015 Mazda6 new and am coming up on 100k miles with it.

I used the factory Mazda 0w-20 oil with moly for the first couple of years, and then switched to the Zepro Eco Medalist which I believed to be the same oil in a much less expensive bottle (I think I learned that here many years ago). However that hasn't been available for many years or at least not at reasonable prices. I have switched between Mobil 1 0w20 full synthetic from Costco or more recently the Costco brand 0w20 full synth which is about $20 for 5 quarts.

I did a little searching and was wondering what the current thought is on using that kind of oil. Is there a reason to use the moly oil? Should I use a moly additive instead? Or should I just not worry about it?

(Note: I have not done a used oil analysis on this car ever, I kind of got out of the habit of it when we had kids 10 years ago. Maybe I should do that and report back?)

Thanks for reading.
 
Does it use oil? What have your oil change intervals been?
The UOA is a good idea. Remove the oil fill cap and glance in your valve cover with a flashlight. Check for the buildup of varnish and how dirty it may look. If it looks full of varnish or you are experiencing oil burning do at least four oil change intervals of Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. After that either stick with the Valvoline Restore and Protect or switch to Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30. That is usually on the shelf at Walmart and if not can be delivered to your door for really good prices.
 
I used to use the Mazda oil on my 16 Mazda 6. I stopped fairly early on though. I've been using either Mobil 1 extended performance or Valvoline synthetic since then. I have 132k now. I have used both 0w20 and 5w30. Guess it depended on how I felt that day. My engine has always consumed 1 qt per 3000miles so I do an oil change. Set the maintenance minder to 3000k. Then I add a quart and reset the clock and at the next 3000 mile internal change the oil.
 
I used to use the Mazda oil on my 16 Mazda 6. I stopped fairly early on though. I've been using either Mobil 1 extended performance or Valvoline synthetic since then. I have 132k now. I have used both 0w20 and 5w30. Guess it depended on how I felt that day. My engine has always consumed 1 qt per 3000miles so I do an oil change. Set the maintenance minder to 3000k. Then I add a quart and reset the clock and at the next 3000 mile internal change the oil.

It’s consumed 1 quart per 3,000 miles since new? Any difference in consumption between 0w20 and 5w30?
 
It’s consumed 1 quart per 3,000 miles since new? Any difference in consumption between 0w20 and 5w30?
Yeah pretty much since new. I never noticed any difference between the two grades.
I currently have a code for a bad cat. That's either from oil consumption or my atrocious habit of idling the car in 108 degree heat with the ac on every day for an hour
 
I'm a die hard Mazda owner. I've been on a moly kick for no other reason than Mazda specs very healthy doses of it in initial fills from the factory in all it's new cars (Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Kia, and Hyundai seem to have very high amounts of Moly in their initial factory fills as well). I've compromised a little and now use QS FS and Valvoline FS which have increased doses of moly (however, not as much as factory fills). It's getting harder to find one of the factory fills with high moly even at dealerships. HPL does have several options with high moly content available, but it has to be ordered on line and costs quite a bit more than other readily available oils.
 
Does it use oil? What have your oil change intervals been?
The UOA is a good idea. Remove the oil fill cap and glance in your valve cover with a flashlight. Check for the buildup of varnish and how dirty it may look. If it looks full of varnish or you are experiencing oil burning do at least four oil change intervals of Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. After that either stick with the Valvoline Restore and Protect or switch to Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30. That is usually on the shelf at Walmart and if not can be delivered to your door for really good prices.
I typically change the oil somewhere in the 5,000 to 7,000 mile range, which is usually dictated by time rather than miles. We just don't drive that much (we live in a and I like to do it no less than once every 9 months, sometimes a full year if I forget. But there's definitely no sludge under the valve cover, or any kind of buildup. I should take the VC off and look but there's nothing to be seen from the filler cap.

Yeah pretty much since new. I never noticed any difference between the two grades.
I currently have a code for a bad cat. That's either from oil consumption or my atrocious habit of idling the car in 108 degree heat with the ac on every day for an hour
Weird! I have never really had any oil consumption. I've maintained it myself since new so I check it regularly. It's never been to the dealer except for one TSB right at the end of the warranty period, which killed the battery. (We were like a week out of the bumper to bumper warranty but the dealer honored it and towed it and replaced the battery for free, since it was the exact issue from the TSB that caused it.)
 
I'm a die hard Mazda owner. I've been on a moly kick for no other reason than Mazda specs very healthy doses of it in initial fills from the factory in all it's new cars (Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Kia, and Hyundai seem to have very high amounts of Moly in their initial factory fills as well). I've compromised a little and now use QS FS and Valvoline FS which have increased doses of moly (however, not as much as factory fills). It's getting harder to find one of the factory fills with high moly even at dealerships. HPL does have several options with high moly content available, but it has to be ordered on line and costs quite a bit more than other readily available oils.
I will have to look up HPL oil, never heard of it. Thanks for the recommendation.
 
https://www.hplubricants.com/

If you’re interested, here is their site for ordering. Add the code BITOG15 at check out for a 15% discount.

https://www.advlubrication.com/

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Yes, I was just searching and finding a lot! Thanks for the recommendation. Also cool that they sponsor BITOG. I have never posted here but have read and learned many things on this forum over the years. (I am a mechanical engineer, automotive enthusiast, and don't let anyone work on my cars! So I appreciate this place a lot.)
 
HPL "Premium Plus Passenger Car Engine Oil" seems to have the highest moly content (+/- 600 to 800PPM which is comparable, and on occasion, higher than factory fills containing high moly content)
 
My 2018 CX-5 just turned 35700 and I found making Moly a priority a hassle to be polite. Local Mazda dealer won’t discount their oil so I’m not buying Mazda Moly at $12/qt. The manual recommends Castrol and the dealer I bought it from uses Total Quartz bulk oil. I let the dealer do the first oil change. He overfilled it. Five quarts doesn’t even reach the full mark on the dipstick so how much oil did I get? Next 3-4 oil changes were Zepro 0W-20. After I couldn’t get Zepro anymore, Schaeffer’s, Mobil 1, Valvoline, and now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. The rebate was the clincher. I just got a deal on three jugs of Idemitsu 0W-20. Nothing but Mazda Roki oil filters.
 
My 2018 CX-5 just turned 35700 and I found making Moly a priority a hassle to be polite. Local Mazda dealer won’t discount their oil so I’m not buying Mazda Moly at $12/qt. The manual recommends Castrol and the dealer I bought it from uses Total Quartz bulk oil. I let the dealer do the first oil change. He overfilled it. Five quarts doesn’t even reach the full mark on the dipstick so how much oil did I get? Next 3-4 oil changes were Zepro 0W-20. After I couldn’t get Zepro anymore, Schaeffer’s, Mobil 1, Valvoline, and now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. The rebate was the clincher. I just got a deal on three jugs of Idemitsu 0W-20. Nothing but Mazda Roki oil filters.
My dealer didn't even use the correct Mazda 0w20 oil. They had a different oil in their shop.

Where did you find the idemitsu? I am fine with buying in bulk if that's what it takes. I just struggle with spending $10/quart for oil on my Mazda. I don't even spend that much on my diesel BMW. (I just looked and it's about $15/quart for the HPL stuff before the 15% discount, yikes!!)
 
My dealer didn't even use the correct Mazda 0w20 oil. They had a different oil in their shop.

Where did you find the idemitsu? I am fine with buying in bulk if that's what it takes. I just struggle with spending $10/quart for oil on my Mazda. I don't even spend that much on my diesel BMW. (I just looked and it's about $15/quart for the HPL stuff before the 15% discount, yikes!!)
You have to be careful with the Idemitsu oils if you specifically want to get the high moly variety. It comes in a variety of formulations and I haven't been able to determine which is which. I'm sure one of the wizards here will have that info. It's getting harder to find the moly version and it's more expensive as well. I've found it on Amazon and ebay. At least the Mazda branded oil prints "high moly" (making it easier to distinguish) on the label but not all dealerships carry it and it also costs a premium. While I haven't used them, both Nissan and Toyota offer high moly options. Total Quartz offers a high moly option as well but I haven't a clue as to where to find it.
 
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I got three jugs of Idemitsu on eBay. You can get it on Amazon. I haven’t seen it in brick and mortar anywhere. IG3 0W-20. I don’t care about Molybdenum. Tired of looking and I’m not paying a Mazda dealer for it. This Super Bowl game is boring. The Bears and the Bills should be playing.
 
You have to be careful with the Idemitsu oils if you specifically want to get the high moly variety. It comes in a variety of formulations and I haven't been able to determine which is which. I'm sure one of the wizards here will have that info. It's getting harder to find the moly version and it's more expensive as well. I've found it on Amazon and ebay. At least the Mazda branded oil prints "high moly" (making it easier to distinguish) on the label but not all dealerships carry it and it also costs a premium. While I haven't used them, both Nissan and Toyota offer high moly options. Total Quartz offers a high moly option as well but I haven't a clue as to where to find it.
They (mazda brand) does not print the "high moly" anymore. Just got five quarts of the newer gf6 0w20 Mazda oil and it DOES say on the back it contains moly but no more printed "high moly"..or "with moly" on the front anymore.. That does not mean it does not have high moly. Been trying to find out if there is more or less than the previous gf5 version, but theres no info on it anywhere that i can find
 
They (mazda brand) does not print the "high moly" anymore. Just got five quarts of the newer gf6 0w20 Mazda oil and it DOES say on the back it contains moly but no more printed "high moly"..or "with moly" on the front anymore.. That does not mean it does not have high moly. Been trying to find out if there is more or less than the previous gf5 version, but theres no info on it anywhere that i can find
My last purchase was about 9 to 10 mos ago at the dealer. Only got it because it was labeled "high moly". I'm aware Mazda also sells a variety that doesn't contain the same amount of moly. Saw that when looking at some oil analysis's on a Mazda forum. It's getting harder to tell which is which especially if ordering online. One reason why I started using Valvoline. It has a reasonably healthy dose of moly (definitely not as much as the Mazda oil but still more than many others) and it's readily available.
 
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