Maximum age of dry powder fire extinguishers

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Dec 31, 2017
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Location
SE British Columbia, Canada
I purchased a dry powder fire extinguisher 4 years ago and noticed it was stamped with 2020 on the bottom. Also, I have a few other extinguishers with a 2011 date. A quick search mentioned a 10-12 year age limit but I think it’s like asking a barber if you need a haircut. How long are you keeping yours?
 
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"Infinitely" but should be tested and certified if possible. My office one is from 2009 but is 'certified' every year and was last pressure tested May of 2022, both done by another company that does the whole office building.

EDIT: This actually reminds me to buy one for home and car.
 
I have several for home use.
Yearly I will inspect them.
1) check pressure gage
2) slowly tip the extinguisher upside down and listen (and feel) for the powder to move (called sifting)
I also tap the bottom with a rubber mallet to prevent clumping.

If I had one in my vehicle, I would be more concerned about compaction of powder and causing clumping.
 
How long would I keep a fire extinguisher?

Like anything, buy from a good manufacturer.
I like Amerex. Mine are going on 8 years.

I also have a Sentry that's 21 years old.
Still checks ok.
 
I have one out in my garage that dates to 1976. The gauge still reads OK. I keep it more for nostalgia than anything else. Maybe I'll take it out and shoot it and see if it is still pressurized one of these days. I have a couple of the bigger ones that I bought in 2004 that still show OK on the gauge as well. Are they not to be trusted, and what do you do with them ?
 
I think the "10 year lifespan" is the pressure certification for the vessel. Dry chemical fire retardant should last a lifetime.
 
Home units are throw away after expiration, but that should be a long time. Most important thing for dry powder units are the valve, huge recall on Kidde with plastic pivot pins in the valve assembly a few years ago. The pin would break when the trigger was squeezed.

The second most important thing is to keep the powder loose by inverting them once in a while and "bouncing" them until you feel the powder bounce back inside the canister. Make sure the outside of the tank is free from rust or damage on inspection as well.

It's not cost effective to have a home unit pressure tested, just replace.
Our commercial units needed re-certified and stamped about every 12 years or so.
 
Another concern for longevity is DO NOT sit them on the floor.
They should be hanging on a wall (near an exit).
Letting them sit on a floor may rust the bottoms.

Here is an explanation of the letters and numbers (based on size of extinguisher).

This is NOT official, but easy to remember for an A-B-C extinguisher.
A .... anything that burns and leaves an ash .... paper, wood
B .... anything that ships in a barrel .... oil, grease
C .... electrical current
 
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Industrial maintenance manager here. NFPA10 (National Fire Protection Association) covers fire extinguisher maintenance. There are 4 maintenance intervals.
  • Monthly inspection. . .These can be done with in house personel. Dubbed "rag 'n tag"," this is basically a visual inspection, ensuring proper signage is present, the unit is not blocked, and the gauge reads in the green.
  • Annual. . .To be performed by a licensed extinguisher tech. A more intensive version of the monthly.
  • 6-Year inspection. . .Every 6 years the extinguisher is discharged, disassembled, o-rings and other parts replaced, and a visual inspection of the interior of the extinguisher, and leak test A 6-year compliance ring is installed between the bottle and valve.
  • 12-year hydrostatic pressure test. . .in addition to the 6-year maintenance, the tank is hydrstatically tested to about 600psi. As long as the cylinder passes the hydro test every 12 years it can remain in service. I have several extinguishers that are coming up on their third 12-year service.
For the reason stated above (rust) it is a code violation to store an extinguisher on its base/floor.
 
This is NOT official, but easy to remember for an A-B-C extinguisher.
A .... anything that burns and leaves an ash .... paper, wood
B .... anything that ships in a barrel .... oil, grease
C .... electrical current
Also D for combustible metals like sodium, potassium etc., and K for cooking oil/grease fires. Sorry, no mnemonic I am aware of for these two.
 
Another concern for longevity is DO NOT sit them on the floor.
They should be hanging on a wall (near an exit).
Letting them sit on a floor may rust the bottoms.

Here is an explanation of the letters and numbers (based on size of extinguisher).

This is NOT official, but easy to remember for an A-B-C extinguisher.
A .... anything that burns and leaves an ash .... paper, wood
B .... anything that ships in a barrel .... oil, grease
C .... electrical current

They made us wall mount ours "easier to geab" was their reason.

Uh, no. Pulling a 30lb bottle off a hook at toroso level vs picking it up from thigh level is way harder
 
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