How should one checkout what I think is marginal winterizing of a 1987 Merc 5.7L Alpha 1 with RWC?
marginal winterizing
- Thread starter Donald
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The first thing I would do is make sure the batteries are charged, then get water to the intake, then crank that beast over. Then when its running it should smoke like its on fire for a few minutes, then look for leaks from hoses, manifolds, and the motor itself. If the block is cracked, it will be a short season.,,
Does the motor smoke upon startup?? A well winterized and oiled motor usually smokes for the first 15 seconds.
Lower unit: Is the oil clean and new looking, or old? If you had checked just after it was done there would be tell-tale oil traces around the fill and drain plugs. Lower unit oil does not "wear out" in one season, but the only way to check for water infiltration is to drain it.
Drain Plugs in the block. If you open them does anything come out? Did they add a little antifreeze through the top hose.
Notes on block draining: The plugs often lime/rust over, even when pulled almost nothing comes out...poking a small nail in the drainholes results in a gush of water coming out if this was done quickly and poorly. Remember, these are car motors, not really designed for marine use and some drain poorly. Sadly, several of my friends have discovered cracked blocks in the spring on boats that they paid to have winterized.
Was the prop center (through the prop exhaust) covered and sealed? Lower units left trimmed up have been known to fill with rainwater.... the drainholes plugged with leaves/debris.... then it freezes and cracks. A plastic bag, duct tape, anything is way cheaper than a new lower unit housing.
My Choice: Drain the block at the river at the end of your last use....leave the plugs out all the way home, let the wiggling and jiggling ride home slosh out the rest. Then add a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze through the top hose to dilute any undrained low spots.
Of course, get the manual for your specific boat/motor and learn all the correct details, locations, etc.
As more myself, our operation has 8 Evinrude Etec outboards, you send a message from the control box and they winterize themselves!!! 45 seconds work, while sitting in the drivers seat.... ok the triple rig takes 45x3, but still....
Lower unit: Is the oil clean and new looking, or old? If you had checked just after it was done there would be tell-tale oil traces around the fill and drain plugs. Lower unit oil does not "wear out" in one season, but the only way to check for water infiltration is to drain it.
Drain Plugs in the block. If you open them does anything come out? Did they add a little antifreeze through the top hose.
Notes on block draining: The plugs often lime/rust over, even when pulled almost nothing comes out...poking a small nail in the drainholes results in a gush of water coming out if this was done quickly and poorly. Remember, these are car motors, not really designed for marine use and some drain poorly. Sadly, several of my friends have discovered cracked blocks in the spring on boats that they paid to have winterized.
Was the prop center (through the prop exhaust) covered and sealed? Lower units left trimmed up have been known to fill with rainwater.... the drainholes plugged with leaves/debris.... then it freezes and cracks. A plastic bag, duct tape, anything is way cheaper than a new lower unit housing.
My Choice: Drain the block at the river at the end of your last use....leave the plugs out all the way home, let the wiggling and jiggling ride home slosh out the rest. Then add a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze through the top hose to dilute any undrained low spots.
Of course, get the manual for your specific boat/motor and learn all the correct details, locations, etc.
As more myself, our operation has 8 Evinrude Etec outboards, you send a message from the control box and they winterize themselves!!! 45 seconds work, while sitting in the drivers seat.... ok the triple rig takes 45x3, but still....
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Sadly, several of my friends have discovered cracked blocks in the spring on boats that they paid to have winterized.
I hope your friends had the winterizer's insurance cover the cost of a new long block!
I concur with everything fsskier said. If the engine oil "looks" clean, and you doubt it was changed - change it again anyways. Its cheap insurance. Sometimes the oil will appear ok colored on the dipstick, but once you suck it out, its a black mess. Just my $.02!
Sadly, several of my friends have discovered cracked blocks in the spring on boats that they paid to have winterized.
I hope your friends had the winterizer's insurance cover the cost of a new long block!
I concur with everything fsskier said. If the engine oil "looks" clean, and you doubt it was changed - change it again anyways. Its cheap insurance. Sometimes the oil will appear ok colored on the dipstick, but once you suck it out, its a black mess. Just my $.02!
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