Manual Shifter VERY Hard at Times

[GreasyG]

Hi all,

`98 Ranger 2WD standard/manual that sometimes becomes all but impossible to get into gear when trying to pull away from a light (or stop sign) - not even by "goosing" the clutch. It's as if all of a sudden an iron or concrete wall has materialized between neutral and any other gear.

I have (so far) been able to fight through it with 3, 4, 5 stabs (as quickly as possible, so as not to hear a chorus of horns behind me), but I'm afraid I'm getting to a point where that won't continue.

I know NOTHING about ANY transmissions (other than to drive them), and I'd like to think a simple gear-oil change would fix it, but I seem to recall someone from my distant past once saying this situation has something to do with a "synchronizer"...?

Thx in advance for any help!!

 

[Rand]

slave cylinder going bad? or master cylinder?

IIRC slave cylinder issues were quite common on that vintage.

I'd check the fluid level and consider changing the fluid in the transmission as a first step.

That should be a M5R1?

 

[Oliveoil2]

Change the fluid

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Did you recently change the fluid?

Most 75w90 GL5 gear oils you find in the store are ill-suited to manual transmissions. Instead, get Triax Synergy Gear MT 75w90 or Motorcraft XT-M5-QS or anything that says M2C200-C

If a synchro was bad, you could just double clutch it.

Is the clutch bad? Have you ever replaced it?

 

[zrxkawboy]

Sounds like a clutch issue.

 

[Lubener]

slave cylinder going bad? or master cylinder?

IIRC slave cylinder issues were quite common on that vintage.

I'd check the fluid level and consider changing the fluid in the transmission as a first step.

That should be a M5R1?

Gears would be grinding if the clutch is not fully disengaging. He doesn't state if the gears are grinding during his attempts. I am for the fluid change.

 

[CharBaby]

Along with everything else above, how about the clutch master cylinder fluid(brake fluid)?
I've know many folks who didn't know that there is a clutch master cylinder and it takes brake fluid and that's all it needed for to be topped-off.

 

[Rand]

Did you recently change the fluid?

Most 75w90 GL5 gear oils you find in the store are ill-suited to manual transmissions. Instead, get Triax Synergy Gear MT 75w90 or Motorcraft XT-M5-QS or anything that says M2C200-C

If a synchro was bad, you could just double clutch it.

Is the clutch bad? Have you ever replaced it?

I used redline d4 in a 2005 ranger.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

I used redline d4 in a 2005 ranger.

I don't know what the Ranger MT calls for, but I thought it was 75w90 since they used a lot of Mazda manual transmissions at the time.

If it calls for ATF, perhaps Pennzoil or Valvoline Synchromesh or Royal Purple Synchromax would be a good choice

 

[Rand]

I don't know what the Ranger MT calls for, but I thought it was 75w90 since they used a lot of Mazda manual transmissions at the time.

If it calls for ATF, perhaps Pennzoil or Valvoline Synchromesh or Royal Purple Synchromax would be a good choice

It was a ford/mazda transmission but spec'ed mercon V

 

[ripcord]

Rules of thumb for manual transmissions (there are exceptions)

Hard to shift with engine off = transmission problem
Hard to shift with engine on but vehicle stopped = clutch problem
Easy to shift with engine on and vehicle stopped but hard to shift with engine on and vehicle moving = transmission problem