Maintenance advice on 04 Taurus

[rjacket]

So I'm coming up to an oil change and will also be getting the coolant changed.

Was wondering whether to have the spark plugs and PCV valve changed also.

It's a 2004 Taurus 3.0 Duratec. Maintenance schedule says spark plugs and PCV at 10 years / 100k. I'm at 8 years and 67k.

It passed the smog test, 2 years ago, with flying colors. I just cleaned the throttle body and run Gumout All In One through it and thats made a huge difference in performance and fuel economy. It had seen too many short journeys for about 3 years / 10k of driving but had good quality oil changes and is spotless when viewed through the filler cap.

The plugs are troublesome to get to and so is the PCV valve. So the question is should I wait a couple more years or do it now?

What should I look for to tell me whether there would be a benefit from changing the spark plugs and / or PCV valve now?

 

[Rand]

I'd do the plugs now before they weld themselves in.

I just changed them on this engine in a 01 ford taurus.

It was not NEARLY as bad as described as long as you read up on it and know what to do.
For instance my dad's 05 ranger is MUCH worse
had to take a wheel off for that one.

At least on the taurus its just ignition stuff you can easily R&R.

We also discovered some bad intake gaskets from the oil on the rear plugs.

I'd also replace the wires while they are all off too.

About 80$ for the parts.. rockauto is good.

 

[Audios]

Id say wait a little longer if youre not seeing any driveability issues. Save up for 5 or 10k, and see what you think then.

 

[Big_Kat]

Originally Posted By: rjacket
So I'm coming up to an oil change and will also be getting the coolant changed.

Was wondering whether to have the spark plugs and PCV valve changed also.

It's a 2004 Taurus 3.0 Duratec. Maintenance schedule says spark plugs and PCV at 10 years / 100k. I'm at 8 years and 67k.

It passed the smog test, 2 years ago, with flying colors. I just cleaned the throttle body and run Gumout All In One through it and thats made a huge difference in performance and fuel economy. It had seen too many short journeys for about 3 years / 10k of driving but had good quality oil changes and is spotless when viewed through the filler cap.

The plugs are troublesome to get to and so is the PCV valve. So the question is should I wait a couple more years or do it now?

What should I look for to tell me whether there would be a benefit from changing the spark plugs and / or PCV valve now?


I just replaced the plugs in my moms 2002 escape last summer at 140k miles and they looked ok. Taking that upper intake off can be a pain. But not too difficult. Be sure to get new gaskets for the upper intake if you do change them. I would be more worried about the coolant that the plugs IMO.

Edit: My PCV valve still rattled when it was replaced at 155K miles.

 

[rjacket]

Originally Posted By: Audios
Id say wait a little longer if youre not seeing any driveability issues. Save up for 5 or 10k, and see what you think then.


I've had the car for so long and mainly driven another car in the last several years, that it's hard for me to tell whether the performance is as it was when new or not.

Certainly, changing the ATF, cleaning the throttle body and using fuel system cleaner have had a noticeable effect. I sometimes don't feel that the engine spins as freely as it might above 3.5k - it can sound a bit rough.

 

[rjacket]

Originally Posted By: Big_Kat
I just replaced the plugs in my moms 2002 escape last summer at 140k miles and they looked ok. Taking that upper intake off can be a pain. But not too difficult. Be sure to get new gaskets for the upper intake if you do change them. I would be more worried about the coolant that the plugs IMO.


Yes the coolant is overdue. The maintenance schedule was written in a way that made it seem the coolant change is due at 10 years / 100,000 miles when in fact it should be changed at 5 years.

I get the sense though that in California, we can get away with some maintenance items due to generally more favorable weather including less humidity. The only danger is leaving a car parked outside in the constant sunshine and I get to avoid that as I have a garage.

 

[Big_Kat]

Originally Posted By: rjacket
Originally Posted By: Audios
Id say wait a little longer if youre not seeing any driveability issues. Save up for 5 or 10k, and see what you think then.


I've had the car for so long and mainly driven another car in the last several years, that it's hard for me to tell whether the performance is as it was when new or not.

Certainly, changing the ATF, cleaning the throttle body and using fuel system cleaner have had a noticeable effect. I sometimes don't feel that the engine spins as freely as it might above 3.5k - it can sound a bit rough.



It has a 4k rev limiter when in park.

 

[rjacket]

I heard that the PCV valve doesn't need to be replaced if there is negative pressure in the engine, which can be checked by placing a piece of card over the open oil filler hole when idling and seeing if it gets sucked down.

 

[rjacket]

Originally Posted By: Big_Kat
It has a 4k rev limiter when in park.


Thanks, I know that. I do mean when driving!

 

[Big_Kat]

Originally Posted By: rjacket
Originally Posted By: Big_Kat
It has a 4k rev limiter when in park.


Thanks, I know that. I do mean when driving!


Good deal, ha. I didn't know if you knew about it.

. If you end up replacing the plugs make sure to torque them to spec 11 ft/lbs and use Iridium plugs.

 

[doitmyself]

Don't know if this applies to your car, but my daughter's '02 Taurus (and others of this vintage) had the VERY common heater core blockage. The passages are so tiny that any gunk plugs them up. It's an easy fix to gently flush it out through the heater hoses and there's lots of google hits on this.

The coolant manifold on the firewall also is prone to corroding through.

Just things to keep in mind, not really maintenance things.

 

[Rand]

you dont have to remove the intake to do the rear plugs.
you remove the window cowling? thats under the passenger wiper..
its held on by 8 clips.

then you take the coil pack off after marking the wires and diagramming the wires

its something like
cyl
123
456

coil pack
132
654
(thats not right its just an example)

The rear plugs you need a 6" extension with a thin head ratchet and rubber boot spark plug socket.. Tape the extensions/socket together.

IF you are using a torque wrench make sure you have the proper extensions(or adapter) and a 1/4 drive torque wrench.

Its also a good time to change the forgotten Cabin air filter thats hidden under the passenger side cowling.(under wiper)

 

[rjacket]

Originally Posted By: Rand
you dont have to remove the intake to do the rear plugs.
you remove the window cowling? thats under the passenger wiper..
its held on by 8 clips.

then you take the coil pack off after marking the wires and diagramming the wires

its something like
cyl
123
456

coil pack
132
654
(thats not right its just an example)

The rear plugs you need a 6" extension with a thin head ratchet and rubber boot spark plug socket.. Tape the extensions/socket together.

IF you are using a torque wrench make sure you have the proper extensions(or adapter) and a 1/4 drive torque wrench.

Its also a good time to change the forgotten Cabin air filter thats hidden under the passenger side cowling.(under wiper)


Thanks but they say for the 2004+ Duratec, this still does not give you access.

 

[rjacket]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Don't know if this applies to your car, but my daughter's '02 Taurus (and others of this vintage) had the VERY common heater core blockage. The passages are so tiny that any gunk plugs them up. It's an easy fix to gently flush it out through the heater hoses and there's lots of google hits on this.

The coolant manifold on the firewall also is prone to corroding through.

Just things to keep in mind, not really maintenance things.


Thanks. Yes this is exactly why I'm eager to catch up on my overdue coolant exchange.

 

[Big_Kat]

Originally Posted By: rjacket
Originally Posted By: Rand
you dont have to remove the intake to do the rear plugs.
you remove the window cowling? thats under the passenger wiper..
its held on by 8 clips.

then you take the coil pack off after marking the wires and diagramming the wires

its something like
cyl
123
456

coil pack
132
654
(thats not right its just an example)

The rear plugs you need a 6" extension with a thin head ratchet and rubber boot spark plug socket.. Tape the extensions/socket together.

IF you are using a torque wrench make sure you have the proper extensions(or adapter) and a 1/4 drive torque wrench.

Its also a good time to change the forgotten Cabin air filter thats hidden under the passenger side cowling.(under wiper)


Thanks but they say for the 2004+ Duratec, this still does not give you access.


Taking the upper off allows for alot more work area and better access to the PCV.

 

[rjacket]

What are folk's thoughts on the intervals recommended by Ford?

Specifically, for spark plugs and PCV valves is it mileage or time that is important?

Reason I ask is that I only put 3k on the car every year. So at 67k now, it will be a while before I get to 100k. In fact, it'll be so long, that if spark plugs and PCV valve are mileage based replacement items, then I don't need to do it.

On the other hand, if it is time based, then I'm set to change it in 2 years. After that, they would last for another 10 years. So in a way if the interval is time based, and I am going to have it done soon, I would like to do it now and get the benefit for longer.

Other maintenance items ie fluids I believe in changing on time as I understand they deplete over time, not just with mileage. But spark plugs and PCV valve would seem to be more mileage than time dependent replacement items.