Maing the jump to Group IV or V stocks

[dparm]

Right now my Audi S4 (4.2L V8) is running Lubro-Moly Synthoil 5w40. After reading through countless discussions on here, I've decided to make the jump up to higher-quality oil that uses group 4 or 5 base stocks.

Obviously Motul 300V is a group 5, but that stuff is $10/quart or more and my car needs 9 quarts for a change. That is really pushing it. There is Motul 8100 X-CESS for a little bit less, which is supposedly very good too.

There's of course Redline and Amsoil 5w40 as well.

What are the other options for a group 4 or 5?

 

[BobFout]

Royal Purple too. A mostly-group 4 and 5 oil is gonna cost more.

Is there something wrong with the LM 5w40 you're using?

 

[dparm]

Nothing "wrong" with it but I'd like to spend a little bit more for a good oil.

I recently learned that the US-sold Lubro-Moly (at NAPA) is not the same as the European stuff that's full-synth. Maybe that's what's "wrong" with it.

 

[BobFout]

If the $10/quart of Motul seemed scary, that's about what you'll pay for the others oils you're looking at.

 

[fdcg27]

What about Delvac 1300 15w40 for summer and M1 0W-40 for winter, and change twice a year?
How much do you drive?
The HDEO would laugh at the passenger car spec, and M1 0W-40 meets most long-drain Euro specs.
Why search for an oil based upon basestock alone?
The more I learn here, the more I come to realize that the super oils do exist.
You just need to buy them at a truck stop.

 

[dparm]

If the group 4+ stuff costs $10/L, so be it. I just want to perform my due-diligence and make sure I'm not missing on something.

I have also long-considered Rotella T6 or Delvac 1 since it's so [censored] cheap and readily available.


Car is driven 5-7k a year. It's not my DD since I take public transportation. It does see a lot of autocross, and I do like to spin the motor up often when I'm driving it. It sits around on most days and I rarely use it outside of the weekend.

 

[Johnny]

If it were mine I would make a trip to Walmart and buy up a bunch of the Mobil 1 0W-40 and be done with it. It is a Group IV oil and a darn good one at that.

 

[dparm]

Johnny, I can't plaster my car with super-cool Motul stickers then!! ;-)

 

[Ben99GT]

If you're interested in RL, you can get it shipping and tax free from ogracing if you spend $100.

 

[Johnny]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Johnny, I can't plaster my car with super-cool Motul stickers then!! ;-)

Buy the Mobil 1 at Walmart and your Motul stickers off ebay.

 

[dparm]

Actually got a 10% off Pep Boys coupon...

I guess my other big concern is that the low annual mileage means I'll be changing this oil about every 9-12 months. That seems way too long, and that's even at a 5k interval versus Audi's recommended 10k.

 

[Johnny248]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Nothing "wrong" with it but I'd like to spend a little bit more for a good oil.

I recently learned that the US-sold Lubro-Moly (at NAPA) is not the same as the European stuff that's full-synth. Maybe that's what's "wrong" with it.


It is different? I know that the LubroMoly Mos2 I get from napa says made in germany.... Where did you read/see/hear that they are different products?

I've never used their oil, just the moly additive. I know that my local "import car part" store here carries the LubroMoly oils, but not that additives. I've never really looked at their oils closely though.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Right now my Audi S4 (4.2L V8) is running Lubro-Moly Synthoil 5w40. After reading through countless discussions on here, I've decided to make the jump up to higher-quality oil that uses group 4 or 5 base stocks.

Why? Not saying it's a bad idea; just wondering what you want to achieve and why you think your current oil isn't good enough.


Originally Posted By: dparm
Obviously Motul 300V is a group 5, but that stuff is $10/quart or more and my car needs 9 quarts for a change. That is really pushing it. There is Motul 8100 X-CESS for a little bit less, which is supposedly very good too.

8100 X-Cess is old and due for retirement. If you're not going to use 300V, which honestly makes sense IMO, then try to track down some 8100 X-Max 5w-40. It's much more recent and carries better approvals.


Originally Posted By: dparm
There's of course Redline and Amsoil 5w40 as well.

Red Line is always good, although it doesn't carry any approvals and probably never will. Ditto Amsoil, although the general consensus seems to be that their 5w-40 is getting VERY long in the tooth and likely to be retired soon.


Originally Posted By: dparm
What are the other options for a group 4 or 5?

Renewable Lubricants, Inc. (RLI)
Fuchs
Some other Lubro Moly stuff (I forget which)


Again, tell us what you are trying to achieve and why you think your current oil falls short, and we will be able to give better advice.

 

[dparm]

What I'm trying to achieve is basically maximum protection for the vehicle. Duh, right? I just want a good high-end motor oil. This is an expensive and complex motor and I want it to last, especially my unusual usage pattern.


The other Lubro-Moly you're thinking of is either TopTech (popular for the RS4) or Voll-Synthese (the full-synth European version).

The Fuchs Silkolene line looks decent, but [censored] is it pricey.

300V is still my #1 choice but like I said I am definitely open to other things.

 

[stenerson]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
If it were mine I would make a trip to Walmart and buy up a bunch of the Mobil 1 0W-40 and be done with it. It is a Group IV oil and a darn good one at that.


I've never seen 0w40 in our Walmart. Must not sell much.
Autozone carries it but in the pricey quart bottles.

 

[dparm]

I've also done some research and am seeing someone claim the Motul 300V is not chemically designed for long-change intervals. This led to higher tin and iron wear.

Specifically:
"The main issue with using an ester base oil in anything other than a racing car, is that high amounts of ester are hydrolytically unstable, and form carboxylic acids with water vapor condensing in the crankcase."

 

[stenerson]

Originally Posted By: dparm

Specifically:
"The main issue with using an ester base oil in anything other than a racing car, is that high amounts of ester are hydrolytically unstable, and form carboxylic acids with water vapor condensing in the crankcase."


So ester base oils not ideal for street use according to this expert?

 

[BobFout]

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: dparm
Right now my Audi S4 (4.2L V8) is running Lubro-Moly Synthoil 5w40. After reading through countless discussions on here, I've decided to make the jump up to higher-quality oil that uses group 4 or 5 base stocks.

Why? Not saying it's a bad idea; just wondering what you want to achieve and why you think your current oil isn't good enough.


Originally Posted By: dparm
Obviously Motul 300V is a group 5, but that stuff is $10/quart or more and my car needs 9 quarts for a change. That is really pushing it. There is Motul 8100 X-CESS for a little bit less, which is supposedly very good too.

8100 X-Cess is old and due for retirement. If you're not going to use 300V, which honestly makes sense IMO, then try to track down some 8100 X-Max 5w-40. It's much more recent and carries better approvals.


Originally Posted By: dparm
There's of course Redline and Amsoil 5w40 as well.

Red Line is always good, although it doesn't carry any approvals and probably never will. Ditto Amsoil, although the general consensus seems to be that their 5w-40 is getting VERY long in the tooth and likely to be retired soon.


Originally Posted By: dparm
What are the other options for a group 4 or 5?

Renewable Lubricants, Inc. (RLI)
Fuchs
Some other Lubro Moly stuff (I forget which)


Again, tell us what you are trying to achieve and why you think your current oil falls short, and we will be able to give better advice.


Which of the two Amsoil 5w40s is getting long in the tooth?

 

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: stenerson
Originally Posted By: dparm

Specifically:
"The main issue with using an ester base oil in anything other than a racing car, is that high amounts of ester are hydrolytically unstable, and form carboxylic acids with water vapor condensing in the crankcase."


So ester base oils not ideal for street use according to this expert?



Like I said, this is just one guy. No clue how valid it is. And it's a very different motor (370Z) that Nissan specifies ester oil for.

 

[Trajan]

Originally Posted By: stenerson
Originally Posted By: Johnny
If it were mine I would make a trip to Walmart and buy up a bunch of the Mobil 1 0W-40 and be done with it. It is a Group IV oil and a darn good one at that.


I've never seen 0w40 in our Walmart. Must not sell much.
Autozone carries it but in the pricey quart bottles.


It'so longer in the three walmarts in my area either...