Magnetic spark plug socket

POWERBUILT magnetic, 13/16" works great, 10 years+.
Got it so I never drop another one inside the cooling tin of an old VW bus air cooled engine.
No fun fishing them out or finding old ones lurking in there at rebuild time.....
 
They're definitely worth it. I've got a GW swivel and it pains me to reco GW but it's great. I've got a few others standard ones from various manufacturers, too.

I don't even touch the rubber washer ones anymore. Lose a rubber washer once in a deep plug well and you'll swear them off, too.
 
The plug sockets I own have a rubber insert to center, prevent breakage, capture and hold onto a plug. I see no advantage to the magnetic socket.
I have the same. The trick is when you get them, take a pair of needle nosed pliers, and pull out the rubber insert. Coat the outside of the insert, and the inside of the socket with some 5 minute epoxy, and reinsert it. That will prevent the rubber insert from ever coming out.

What happens is as they get older the rubber insert stiffens and shrinks, and when you pull the socket off, it can stick on the plug. With epoxy it won't.
 
I have a set of magnetic swivel end spark plug sockets on variable length extensions. Since they are mounted on the socket, the extension won’t pull out and strand my socket in a deep spark plug well. Being magnetic, they hold the plug for insertion and manual threading. I use no other type anymore, especially since most cars bury the plugs in deep wells these days.

I have a special 14mm swivel end 12 point spark plug socket with magnet for my Mini (and BMW if I need to work on one again). The correct plugs for that Mini engine use 12 point plugs only; other 6 point plugs might fit, but they aren’t correct and will cause drivability issues.

They are worth it in my opinion.
 
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....... I use no other type anymore, especially since most cars bury the plugs in deep wells these days........

This brings up a really important point many don't pay attention to. Before removing ANY automotive plug, I ALWAYS take a high pressure air nozzle, and blow out the plug wells after I remove the boots, and before I pull the plugs out.

I've seen a lot of debris come out of those plug recesses. Dirt, bits of sand, small pebbles, name it, most anything can get trapped in there. I even had a small piece of a broken cable tie blow out of one and hit me in the face.

If you pull the plugs without blowing out the wells, that junk can easily drop into the head. If that happens your problems are just beginning.

I even do this when I take a vehicle in for service, if I even think they're going to pull the plugs, rather depend on them to do it..... Which of course, most don't. And I always generously use dielectric grease on the inside of the boots when I reinsert them.
 
This brings up a really important point many don't pay attention to. Before removing ANY automotive plug, I ALWAYS take a high pressure air nozzle, and blow out the plug wells after I remove the boots, and before I pull the plugs out.

I've seen a lot of debris come out of those plug recesses. Dirt, bits of sand, small pebbles, name it, most anything can get trapped in there. I even had a small piece of a broken cable tie blow out of one and hit me in the face.

If you pull the plugs without blowing out the wells, that junk can easily drop into the head. If that happens your problems are just beginning.

I even do this when I take a vehicle in for service, if I even think they're going to pull the plugs, rather depend on them to do it..... Which of course, most don't. And I always generously use dielectric grease on the inside of the boots when I reinsert them.
I agree, if garbage is able to get down in there, clean it out first! Before the plug comes out.

In the case of my Mini and the Charger, the wells are covered by boots and coils that cover, and seal, the wells up. I haven’t encountered filth in my spark plug wells.

But yes - check first! 😁
 
This brings up a really important point many don't pay attention to. Before removing ANY automotive plug, I ALWAYS take a high pressure air nozzle, and blow out the plug wells after I remove the boots, and before I pull the plugs out.

I've seen a lot of debris come out of those plug recesses. Dirt, bits of sand, small pebbles, name it, most anything can get trapped in there. I even had a small piece of a broken cable tie blow out of one and hit me in the face.

If you pull the plugs without blowing out the wells, that junk can easily drop into the head. If that happens your problems are just beginning.

I even do this when I take a vehicle in for service, if I even think they're going to pull the plugs, rather depend on them to do it..... Which of course, most don't. And I always generously use dielectric grease on the inside of the boots when I reinsert them.
+1 I always blow the spark plug wells out before removing the plugs. Even on OPE. It amazes me how many mechanics in shops working on cars for a living don't do it.
 
I have ones from Nepros and Hazet, the quality and function is equal but the Nepros gets the nod for overall build quality. I will never use a spark plug socket with a rubber insert again in my life.
Buy quality, the cheap ones can have all sorts of issues from fitment to magnet pull or the lack of, with these tools you get what you pay for.
 
The magnetic plug sockets are nice. I still like the old school Matco rubber plug tool to insert plugs. You cannot cross thread the plug. Spin that bad boy in by hand and finish with the torque wrench.
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The magnetic plug sockets are nice. I still like the old school Matco rubber plug tool to insert plugs. You cannot cross thread the plug. Spin that bad boy in by hand and finish with the torque wrench.

I use that same method. But I'm cheap, so I use a piece of fuel line hose. I shove it over the insulator of the plug, and spin it in and out a couple of times. That distributes the anti seize evenly over all of the threads. Yank it off, and torque it down.
 
I went to change the plugs in my '17 Accord today. All set up, rain paused for a while. My magnetic spark plug sockets are al 5/8". Never needed any other version for YEARS. The Accord has 14mm plugs in it :mad:🤬😡🤬.

My old school is to only use 6 point sockets especially on hard to reach and don't want to strip things. Most that I'm finding that I can have here in a day or two are 12 point. Thoughts?

I'm thinking maybe this CTA Tools one. IIRC they at least make decent quality. I might never need it again.
 
Nothing wrong with cta tools I’ve seen yet I say go for it
I bought 3. The CTA tools, EPAuto 12pt swivel, ARES 12pt swivel. The EPAuto and ARES are going back.

The EPAuto didn't want to sit right on the plugs. Something catching on inside unless you moved it around. It was like a 6 point. I had to lift/turn/lower before it felt like it was on the plug and then still not positive. Not feeling great that far down in the head.

The ARES was better but needed an extension (so did the EPAuto). I have the locking extensions so it doesn't fall off. Happened in the past to me when the retention ball/spring got weak. When I went to torque the the plugs there was just too much movement for me. One of the shorter extensions might have been better.

Both of them get at least good reviews overall. I'm sure the swivel helps in many situations. The magnets on all 3 felt about the same.

The CTA is just a 10" long solid socket with the magnet. Definitely more confidence inspiring for me. Held the plug nice, I could feel the plug sit in the threads and finger tighten nice and slow. That will stay in my tool box.

@JeffKeryk would need a 4-6" extension on the Matco tool to get the plug started.

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I bought 3. The CTA tools, EPAuto 12pt swivel, ARES 12pt swivel. The EPAuto and ARES are going back.

The EPAuto didn't want to sit right on the plugs. Something catching on inside unless you moved it around. It was like a 6 point. I had to lift/turn/lower before it felt like it was on the plug and then still not positive. Not feeling great that far down in the head.

The ARES was better but needed an extension (so did the EPAuto). I have the locking extensions so it doesn't fall off. Happened in the past to me when the retention ball/spring got weak. When I went to torque the the plugs there was just too much movement for me. One of the shorter extensions might have been better.

Both of them get at least good reviews overall. I'm sure the swivel helps in many situations. The magnets on all 3 felt about the same.

The CTA is just a 10" long solid socket with the magnet. Definitely more confidence inspiring for me. Held the plug nice, I could feel the plug sit in the threads and finger tighten nice and slow. That will stay in my tool box.

@JeffKeryk would need a 4-6" extension on the Matco tool to get the plug started.

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Thanks for the excellent feedback and write up
 
Relevant Q:
I read that later 3.6l Pentastar engines (2017 on ?) use a 1/2" spark plug.
The blurb said that crushing/twisting these 'new' plugs was possible. The correct socket was a necessity.
Anybody know if any of that is true?

Big agreement on using any rubber holder as a 'get started' tool.
 
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