Made a error! Shop wants $1k to fix. Learn from me

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Today, while changing the transmission fluid in a 99 Honda Accord v6 automatic, I over tightened the drain plug and put a crack in the case. Yes, I know all about torque wrenches and over tightening but I suppose I was in a hurry and distracted. Now the car is at a transmission shop so that the transmission can be removed, and the case welded. What a day! The estimate is $1000 dollars. Other than my divorce, this is the most expensive lesson I think I've ever learned! Not looking for sympathy, just a friendly reminder to pay attention.
 
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That does suck, that being said, I hope that trans lasts now after having been out and repaired and not replaced (V6 auto Honda from that era is a tad scary)
 
Ouch. Can they not drain the pan, rough up the case and weld it up?

Put some tape on the drain bolt and get on with it?

I'd try something like that before dropping $1k in it.

Sorry to hear about the error.

Take care, bill
 
-There is no pan, the fluid drains from the side of the case

-I put tape on it and tried a longer drain bolt

-The crack can be welded but the tranny has to come out to clean the oil from it, the fluid is flammable

-JB Weld won't work because the crack is weeping fluid
 
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Couldn't you drain the tranny again and somehow (suction) get the ATF fluid lower than the crack and then JB Weld it ?

Just a thought. I would try a few things myself before spending $ 1000.

Good Luck
 
Originally Posted By: Milkman
Couldn't you drain the tranny again and somehow (suction) get the ATF fluid lower than the crack and then JB Weld it ?

Just a thought. I would try a few things myself before spending $ 1000.

Good Luck


+1 I would try Quiksteel it is a putty. so you can squish it into the crack. My wal-mart carries it. It is in the automotive section with other sealant products (like permatex, jb weld, ect)

I have had excellent result with Quiksteel and it can bond to wet or dry surfaces. JB weld just makes a mess for me.
 
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Is the crack right at the drain plug, beginning at the threads and radiating out from the plug?

If that's the case its going to be a tough fix without welding, every time the plug is tightened it will open the crack.
Depending on the location it maybe able to be drained by removing the return line and running it until air bubbles appear then shut it down.

I would do that, clean it and tig weld it right in the car if space permits.
You need someone who knows what they are doing for this job.
 
For future reference when you install a drain plug in an aluminum case make sure to use anti-seize or a copper based thread tape. This will not keep it from cracking from over tightening it but I have seen many cases get cracked trying to break a drain plug free that was seized up.

PS: Sounds like it is cracked right up to the threads, screw the JB weld and other [censored], it needs to come out and be welded up and re threaded otherwise the crack will continue to grow.
 
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If you get it welded or otherwise patched I'd get one of those "problem solver" rubber plugs that won't put as much stress on the pan.

This is a design error; putting something like a pipe thread (even if it's not) on that forces pressure outwards when tightening something meant to be removed several times.

They should have spec'd a "soft" plug that would strip out before any of this happened.
 
O/P, I must say that you've managed to accomplish something by cracking the case! I've done a few ATF services on these transmissions and I'm not too sure how ya did it? I think Popeye needs to be your new screen name.

disturban: No need for any anti seize or thread tape. This plug should have an aluminum crush wash ans is not subject to seizing due to being immersed in ATF.

eljefino: I don't think that this is really a design error. I think the O/P just Popeye'd it... Like I said, I've done a few of these with no issues.
 
Maybe he got a bum case with a bad spot in the metal.
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It happens...
 
Once I dropped a friend's transmission. Oops!

It was from a Saab 900, where the top of the transmission is the oil pan. I dropped the engine/trans assembly with the picker too fast and the trans hit the floor with the weight of both units.

It cracked the trans case, but we were able to JB Weld it and it held for years.
 
I would have them rebuild the transmission while it is out of the car. On an Accord V6 transmission from that era, you might as well, since it's probably due for a rebuild soon anyway.
 
The weirdest part about this situation is that you will usually destroy the threads and the plug itself long before the case cracks.
 
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