MacPherson Strut holes elongated - Pics inside

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Hi everyone, I was installing camber pins onto my MacPherson struts and noticed that the upper bolt holes have been elongated (probably be a previous wheel alignment shop trying to achieve more camber): What are my options here in terms of fixing this? I was thinking: 1. Leave as is - The car will be used as a track car and this makes me a bit uneasy even though I believe it should not cause an issue 2. Weld in washers with the right hole diameter - This will cause issues with the camber bolt adjustability I believe 3. Weld the entire hole, then drill the correct size hole as required - This seems like the safest solution but I am worried can welding cause issues with the oil heating up too much or any damage to the strut? Are there any other options I am not considering here?
 
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I've seen alignment instructions that tell you do that and I've seen the holes in the steering knuckle elongated from the factory. Can't see a problem with just leaving it.
 
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I rather have an elongated hole than a crash bolt in there, leave it. It should be noted that some manufacturers spec the lower hole be elongated on the front and upper on the rear struts, always elongate the hole they want the crash bolt installed in. Mitsubishi as far as I can tell is the top hole like yours.
 

Spetz

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Can I or should I still run camber bolts though? The camber bolt itself is thinner than the stock bolt that goes through there but it does add camber (which I may need). I do not know my max/min camber settings currently but will be aiming for 2.5-3 degrees negative
 
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No need to run the thinner adjustment bolts thats why the holes are elongated. If you are going to track this car you sure don't want crash bolts in there, elongating the holes and using the original diameter bolt is the correct and safest way.
 

Spetz

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Thanks guys. I am taking the strut tomorrow to the suspension shop that will setup the car and specializes in racing applications to see what we can do. At this stage I am leaning towards leaving it as is and moving the camber bolts to the bottom hole to allow for a tiny bit more camber and more specifically fine tuning of the wheel alignment but that depends what the suspension shop owner says
 
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