M1 EP 5w30 3.2k mi; Subaru Outback XT 2.4L FA24DIT

Joined
Aug 20, 2003
Messages
23,590
Location
NE,Ohio
Just got this back.. fairly interesting but expected.
oil was in use from 12-17-24 to 4-12-25 (4 months)
mileage from 11111 to 14273 (3161mi)
Sump capacity 5qt.
1745154256905.webp
 
Last edited:
The recommended oil for this engine apprears to be 0w20. With a new engine, I question the use of different spec oil this new in its life cycle. Your result mat not change much if at all, Just an observation. Edit. At this milage the engine "should" technically be broken in already. Arguably, engine don’t need much warm up time when cold long idle times and short trips lots of city driving without highway trips and such will increase fuel dilution.

If fuel dilution does not improve, there may be a fuel injector issue. That being said, I swear by this product 100%.
 
Last edited:
The recommended oil for this engine apprears to be 0w20. With a new engine, I question the use of differant spec oil this new in its life cycle. Your result mat not change much if at all, Just a observation. Edit. At this milage the engine "should" technically be broken in already. Agueably, engine dont need much warm up time when cold long idle times and short trips lots of city driving without highway trips and such will increase fuel dilution.

If fuel dilution does not improve, there may be a fuel injector issue. That being said, I swear by this product 100%.
the fuel dilution is 100% normal on these.. and is worse than usual this interval due to short tripping and winter conditions.
here is a master UOA thread on the outback forum.
https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/used-oil-analysis-uoa-reports-for-gen-6-ob.528047
over 50% were out of grade. I will continue to use a 0w30 or 5w30 to have a viscosity cushion as I don't want a fuel diluted Xw16 oil in my turbo gdi engine.
I thought of using a 5w40 or 0w40, but I wanted mid/low saps.. and going 1 grade thicker was sufficient.. combined with the low oil temp this engine runs
usually 190f to 206f even towing it runs 25f+ cooler than my 3 FB25s
 
Hard to argue the oil grade choice, given the ending viscosity firmly within the 20 grade margins. Likely D.I plus turbo fueling situation.

I might wish for a bit of an oil burner here; in this way, I could start with a 20 grade lubricant and top off with a high approval ACEA xw-40.
That approach worked well in my VW EA 211 1.4 litre.
-Arco
 
I don't pay attention to what is wear unless there is some huge spike. This is, first and foremost, an analysis of used oil. And the oil's viscosity dropped dramatically over these 3k.
Viscosity dropped, but there are no other issues resulting from the drop.

I don’t see a problem to be solved.
 
Get yourself ESP 5W30 or 0W30.

The oil in this UOA did have a 600mile road trip on it only weeks ago. in late march.

funny you should mention ESP. as that is the plan.
I got 4x m1 esp 5w30 and 5x m1 esp 0w30 for 19.99/5qt from aap.
I'm torn between a fall UOA(with current fill of M1 ESP), or doing one next spring after a winter oci of ESP.
Car gets 2-3 oil changes per year not to exceed 5000 miles.. winter oci I try to keep near 3000 miles.

This may be adjusted if
I rotate the elantra in for some driving since the wife is currently unable to drive.
her engine which is everything you would want for longevity from a design standpoint...
port injection, low power to displacement ratio, etc.. has 5000 miles on it now.. from when it was replaced last summer.
and I'd like to get some miles on it to make sure its not a dud.
 
Last edited:
Viscosity dropped, but there are no other issues resulting from the drop.

I don’t see a problem to be solved.
This is quite true and I could stay with a non euro 10.5cst type 5w30.. but I stocked up on ESP on the cheap from AAP. So thats the plan.
Which I expect will thin to around the bottom of the 30grade 9.5-10.5
The org. plan was a 40wt but after seeing the oil temps this engine runs.. IMO not necessary. It runs 190f's and 200f's vs the fb25 which was 210f-240f
 
I haven't seen many Subaru UOAs with >5% dilution. The one time I've seen it on an FA24DIT, it was because the thermostat was stuck open.

How was the car driven on the previous few trips before the sample was taken?
 
I haven't seen many Subaru UOAs with >5% dilution. The one time I've seen it on an FA24DIT, it was because the thermostat was stuck open.

How was the car driven on the previous few trips before the sample was taken?
how many were tested at blackstone? ;)
on the master uoa list I posted well over 50% fell out of grade.
I fully expected mine to
its actually better than I thought.. my winter driving can be brutal.. hence the severe 3k interval.

Previous couple hundred miles were mostly 15-35 min trips which a return trip while it was still warmed up.
but
with 1 mile trip to work and back each day.
My location is not great for walking at 4am.
The oil level did not rise however.

before that I had a 660mile trip to cincy and back... hours at full temp.
 
The recommended oil for this engine apprears to be 0w20. With a new engine, I question the use of different spec oil this new in its life cycle. Your result mat not change much if at all, Just an observation. Edit. At this milage the engine "should" technically be broken in already. Arguably, engine don’t need much warm up time when cold long idle times and short trips lots of city driving without highway trips and such will increase fuel dilution.

If fuel dilution does not improve, there may be a fuel injector issue. That being said, I swear by this product 100%.
He's using 5w30 because 0w20 on a turbocharged boxer motor is a stupid move by Subaru to improve fuel economy, pure and simple.
 
If the 0w20 oil is recommended by the manufacturer simply for economy I would otherwise agree if everything else remained the same. If the 5w30 oil flowed the same as the 0w20 throughout its possable operating range it would be a perect a choice. In warmer climates this would be perfect. sometimes oil passages designed (restricted) for a certain oil could be a issue at ultra low winter temperatures. And yes I am with most that a higher Vis "is Best" for longivity. I see the OP is in Ohio by his info. Its been real tough winter. edit I am in boston.

The Critic makes a good point. Does the increase in vis equate to longer engine life in the same engine under the exact conditions? its a question but is there an answer. I belive the answer is yes, and no. because it depends.

With DI suppose to be "Better" What needs to change to reduce this fuel/oil dilution issue? Indirect injection of some sort. Higher fuel pressure? Perhaps this is a question is best for another post...

Rand please keep us updated. I find this interesting as I am a 3 time subaru owner and appreciate its technology.
 
how many were tested at blackstone? ;)
on the master uoa list I posted well over 50% fell out of grade.
I fully expected mine to
its actually better than I thought.. my winter driving can be brutal.. hence the severe 3k interval.

Previous couple hundred miles were mostly 15-35 min trips which a return trip while it was still warmed up.
but
with 1 mile trip to work and back each day.
My location is not great for walking at 4am.
The oil level did not rise however.

before that I had a 660mile trip to cincy and back... hours at full temp.


Good choice on grade. You had "cushion" left. Think you could run the 5k ocis. Check with uoa at 40k. .02
 
Back
Top Bottom