M1 0W-20 vs GC 0W-30 vs M1 10W-30 vs M1 5W-30 on 2000 Mazda 626 V6

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ZZ,

Look at the total solids level of 0.4 for the M1 and 0.5 for the GC...

The GC sheared, however this thinning was offset by thickening from oxidation/nitration. So the end of test viscosity was about the same. Since Mobil 1, 10w-30 is almost totally shear stable and doesn't thin out, the oxidative thickening showed up as an increase in viscosity.

You have to understand what you are looking at in these analyses ...
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Ted
 
TooSlick difference in solids comes from the different filters used. M1 was run with PureOne while GC was run with K&N.

What proof do we have that GC thins out. Patman since you have been using this oil the most can you tell us if this is the case?

Terry what do you think about GC shearing down?
 
quote:

Originally posted by zoomzoom:

What proof do we have that GC thins out. Patman since you have been using this oil the most can you tell us if this is the case?


It doesn't seem to thin out at all in my engine. My VOA showed it at 12.2 cst at 100c when new, and my first UOA at 3100 miles showed it finishing up at 12.2. Then I ran it for 6200 miles and it finished up at 12.9 cst. I just finished up another 3000 mile interval, and it finished up at 12.3 cst. So at least in my LT1 engine, it's not thinning out at all. In my wife's car, it's first run ended up at 10.9 cst, so it did thin out, although it also had 1% fuel in it, so I'm not sure how much of the thinning was from that.
 
One other oil comes to mind that I completely forgot about...

M1 0W-30R

Has anyone used this oil?

Do you guys think that extra strong additive package this oil has will help me bring the wear down, especially lead?
 
Hold up a minute!
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The Mobil 20wt was run 5000 less miles yet it did better than the Mobil 30wts
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The Castrol had quite a few miles less too

How in the world
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can this 20wt analysis be compared with 5k miles difference ?

[ May 27, 2004, 01:37 PM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
 
Motorbike I was not sure how will 20 weight protect my bearings so I didn't want to take any chances by leaving oil full 9K miles.

As it turns out my fears were well founded...20 weight is just to thin for my bearings and maybe the way I drive...I like to take it to the redline and most of the miles are done on highway at 70-80+ MPH...

Look at the wear per 1000 miles...
 
quote:

Originally posted by zoomzoom:

As it turns out my fears were well founded...20 weight is just to thin for my bearings and maybe the way I drive...I like to take it to the redline and most of the miles are done on highway at 70-80+ MPH...



I agree about scary and hi-rpm time after time with the thin oils doing street duty .
Factor in some fuel dillution and .........

So what oils next on your list ? That groovy yellow colored Maxima 0w-30 some of the West Coast road racers are raving about ?
 
Interesting TooSlick, learn something on a regular basis here. So the .4 insolubles in the shear stable M1 10w30 from oxidation will increase the viscosity from 10.0cSt to 12.47cSt? Didn't realize it would raise the Vis by that much. What's the accuracy/precision of insoluble numbers?

[ May 27, 2004, 12:38 PM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
 
Oils that come to mind for summer are:
1. M1 0W-40
2. GC 0W-30
3. M1 Suv 5W-40
4. M1 R 0W-30

I need one that will keep my lead down and be able to last long OCI(9K miles)!
 
If you want 9000 HARD miles. I would think the M1 T&S oil might be a good choice.. Then again the M1 R is susposed to be "Racing oil"
I wouldnt worry about the SUV oil being too thick.

just my 2cents.
Oh and run them twice back to back if you want meaningful results.

Rand
 
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