M1 0W-20 vs GC 0W-30 vs M1 10W-30 vs M1 5W-30 on 2000 Mazda 626 V6

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zoomzoom

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Ok guys here is thin vs thick results in my car.

EQUIPMENT MAKE: 2000 Mazda
EQUIPMENT MODEL: 2.5L V-6
OIL USE INTERVAL: 5000 Miles
OIL TYPE & GRADE: M1 0W-20
OIL FILTER: PureOne
PERIOD: Feb 04 to May 04
MAKE-UP OIL ADDED: 0 qts

MILES ON OIL 10000/9300/8800/5000/~5000
OIL M1 5W-30/M1 10W-30/GC 0W-30/M1 0W-20/UNIV AVG.
ALUMINUM 7/7/5/4/4
CHROMIUM 2/1/1/1/1
IRON 33/24/21/12/12
COPPER 7/8/5/5/6
LEAD 23/13/12/11/5
TIN 0/0/3/0/1
MOLYBDENUM 75/72/9/53/15
NICKEL 1/0/0/0/0
MANGANESE 1/0/1/0/0
SILVER 0/0/0/0/0
TITANIUM 0/0/0/0/0
POTASSIUM 2/2/0/0/0
BORON 108/108/7/103/33
SILICON 11/21/11/14/9
SODIUM 9/9/2/6/5
CALCIUM 2951/3084/2986/3260/1661
MAGNESIUM 73/25/110/28/364
PHOSPHORUS 801/791/699/802/760
ZINC 963/920/837/834/927
BARIUM 0/0/0/0/2

VISCOSITY 64/68.2/66.9/58.2
FLASHPOINT 415/435/?/420
FUEL 0/0
ANTIFREEZE 0/0/0/0
WATER 0/0/0/0
INSOLUBLES 0.4/0.4/0.5/0.2

wear ppm per 1000 miles

OIL M1 5W-30/M1 10W-30/GC 0W-30/M1 0W-20
ALUM 3.3/2.58/2.39/2.4
CHRO 2.3/1.40/1.36/2.2
IRON 0.7/0.75/0.57/0.8
COPP 0.2/0.11/0.11/0.2
LEAD 0.7/0.86/0.57/1

Lab coment:
Slowly but surely, lead is coming down to a more normal level. Note that the decline coincides with the shorter oil changes you've been doing. We think you're on the right track, and we recommend staying with shorter oil changes until lead comes down to normal.Other wear looks great in your Mazda. We didn't find any coolant, moisture, or fuel in the oil that would cause you any problems. The viscosity was normal for Mobil 1's 0W/20 oil. Note low insolubles, showing great oil filtration. We like the improvement! Keep it up!

My opinion:
Well as you can see I had almost same amount of lead wear with M1 0W-20 in 5K as I had with GC in 8.8K, not to mention that GC went trough pretty though winter and lots of cold starts in low 20's.
Clearly my engine needs a bit thicker oil to keep the lead down...I do like to take it to the read line at 7000RPM and sometimes I do some spirited 100MPH+ driving...

Now I'm runing an Auto RX aplication in my car and I need your help in picking the oil for the summer and another 9K interval!

Oils that come to mind are:
1. M1 0W-40
2. GC 0W-30
3. M1 Suv 5W-40

Which one do you guys recomend based on UOA's results above?

Thanks!
zoomzoom
 
quote:
Originally posted by zoomzoom:
did better on thin oil? did you look at the wear rates per 1000 miles?
Click to expand...
I agree. Your data shows that the GC is protecting better. Granted "better" is a relative term here, but from your next choices of oils, I'd give M1 5w-40 a shot and see the kinds of numbers it produces.
 
CORRECTION on wear rates per 1000 miles:

OIL M1/M1/GC/M1
VIS 5W-30/10W-30/0W-30/0W-20
ALUM 0.7/0.75/0.57/0.8
CHRO 0.2/0.11/0.11/0.2
IRON 3.3/2.58/2.39/2.4
COPP 0.7/0.86/0.57/1
LEAD 2.3/1.40/1.36/2.2
 
I'd go with M1 0w-40. I think it would be interesting to see if M1 0w-40 would lower your lead even further. I pick M1 0w-40 over M1 SUV 5w-40 since the 0w-40 is a little thinner viscosity than M1 5w-40 SUV (M1 0w-40 14.3 cSt vs M1 5w-40 SUV 14.8 cSt), and probably better suited for your engine.

[ May 20, 2004, 10:31 PM: Message edited by: Bobert ]
 
Looks like the two thickest oils did best. This leads me to believe this V6 is pre-Ford-Modular design type Mazda V6. Maybe some of you Mazda fans can correct me if I'm wrong. It be intersting to see how both the M1 0w40 and the M1 SUV 5w40 would do in this engine. I know it's not practical, but it would of also been nice to see a double run of each oil to better differentiate between the affects of the oils.
How many miles are on this engine?
 
Based on your results your two best oils or Mobil 1 10w-30 and GC 0-30. Seems like a dead heat with both these oils. I guess we already knew that both these oils are some of the best around.
Wonder what the insolubles at .2 with the thin 0w-20 means? Maybe some of the experts can tell us if a thin oil filters better or whatever to give us this very low insolubles. Maybe it means the GC before it cleaned everything out?
 
Your car obviously did better on the thinner oil. Oils should match the engine. Does this engine have tight tolerances? If that is the case you should not go too thick.
 
quote:
Originally posted by 427Z06:
This leads me to believe this V6 is pre-Ford-Modular design type Mazda V6. Maybe some of you Mazda fans can correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...
It's all Mazda, no Ford whatsoever. It's the KL 2.5 V6 also fitted to the Ford Probe and Mazda MX-6.

Zoomzoom has a 2000 model, difference being his engine has solid lifters and a coil pack ignition.
 
So this engine is the same as the engine in my mom's 94 Probe GT then? If so, how come they don't recommend 5w20 for the Probe GT? That is one of the engines Ford did not backtrack and start telling owners to switch to 5w20 in.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Patman:
So this engine is the same as the engine in my mom's 94 Probe GT then? If so, how come they don't recommend 5w20 for the Probe GT? That is one of the engines Ford did not backtrack and start telling owners to switch to 5w20 in.
Click to expand...
No idea Patman. My owners manual says if SG rated oil is used (this engine is circa 1993 remember) then 5w30 or 10w30 is recommended - no other viscosities are listed.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Patman:
So this engine is the same as the engine in my mom's 94 Probe GT then? If so, how come they don't recommend 5w20 for the Probe GT? That is one of the engines Ford did not backtrack and start telling owners to switch to 5w20 in.
Click to expand...
This engine uses the traditional trimetal copper/lead crank/rod bearings, not the tight aluminum bearings Ford likes to put in ther modular design engines is my guess.

If you're bored and need some good reading:
http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/ar797.htm

wink.gif


[ May 21, 2004, 07:37 AM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
 
This is what they say about the lubrication system in this engine...Is this a good design?

LUBRICATION SYSTEM - Mounted to the front of the engine is a highly efficient trochoid oil pump, which is directly driven by the crankshaft and has nine internal and ten external teeth. To reduce vibration and noise caused by oil pressure fluctuations on the delivery side, the clearance with the inner rotor on the crankshaft was adjusted and the configuration of the partition between the suction and delivery sides was optimized.

To control output loss caused by crankshaft oil diffusion and to reduce the amount of air in the oil, superior oil baffle plate configuration has been adopted. Combined with the revision to the oil strainer configuration, it ensures stable pressure even when the oil level varies during high-speed cornering.

A water-cooled oil cooler and piston-cooling oil jet are employed to increase durability against high-temperature loads. (Fig. 30)
 
TooSlick I was under the impression that M1 10W-30 thinckend up cosiderably while GC reminded more or less the same viscosity?

used/new
M1 10W-30 12.47/10.0cSt
GC 0W-30 12.12/12.2cSt

So even though M1 has smaller viscosity spread GC had much more stable viscosity?

[ May 21, 2004, 02:54 PM: Message edited by: zoomzoom ]
 
quote:
Originally posted by zoomzoom:
TooSlick I was under the impression that M1 10W-30 thinckend up cosiderably while GC reminded more or less the same viscosity?

used/new
M1 10W-30 12.47/10.0cSt
GC 0W-30 12.12/12.2cSt

So even though M1 has smaller viscosity spread GC had much more stable viscosity?
Click to expand...
Yes, yes...my telepathic powers are now focusing more clearly...what's this I see...why it's Patman with a big grin on his face.
tongue.gif
 
I'd toss out the first column, as the engine was still breaking in, and I'd toss the fourth column, since the miles are only 50% of the others....

Comparing the 2nd and 3rd columns, for the mobil 1 ,10w-30 and Castrol 0w-30, I'd say those results are within the normal test to test variability you are likely to see - even if you ran the same oil all the time. Of note, the used Castrol 0w-30 sample was actually thinner than the Mobil 1, 10w-30, in spite of the fact that it starts out @ 12 Cst, vs 10 Cst for the M1, 10w-30. The implication here is that the GC, 0w-30 suffered from significant shearing and the 10w-30 did not. I'm beginning to like the Amsoil 10w-30 over some of their other grades for the same reason ....

I'd recommend sticking with the M1, 10w-30, since it degraded the least over the course of the approx 10k interval....The 10w-30 should do the best job of minimizing high temp engine deposits as well, since it uses little or no polymeric thickener.

Tooslick
www.lubedealer.com/dixie_synthetics
 
hm since GC is so shear stable maybe I should go with it over the summer instead of M1 0W-40 which does shear down.

Is it true that oils that shear down generally leave more deposits in the engine?
 
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