Lubricating stiff brass braided hoses

[IncognitoSF]

The application is AN/TVS-3 searchlights, these are 20kW water cooled xenon short-arc bulbs. The coolant flows to each end of the bulb with 2 braided brass covered hoses, which also carry power (465A). I don't know what the underlying hose material is.

These units are from 1968. Problem is that these hoses need to flex some when the bulb is moved to change focus. They haven't moved for 40 years, so are pretty rigid, to the point where attempting to change focus will break the ($9000) bulb. When bulbs are changed, coolant (EG/water) can spill and wick in, making them more crusty.

We've managed to free them up just by flexing them in place, but they are still pretty stiff. Would like to get them more flexible without removal and deep massage, I'm considering silicone spray, but don't want to make things worse later. Environmentally, the hoses are exposed to a lot of light and heat up to 200F.

Ideas?
Thanks!

 

[SOHCman]

Assuming the hose material is rubber, I wouldn't
Use anything petroleum based. A silicone grease like dielectric grease would both preserve the rubber, and provide lubrication to the brass weave plus prevent corrosion.

 

[SuperDave456]

I'd be worried about the risk of fire with any normal lube.

However, Kano Labs has this stuff called "PyroLube" which is advertised as having a working tempature up to 1800 degrees F.

That is where I would start.
http://www.kanolabs.com/indLub.html

Also, I'd be worried about adding any solvent that could destroy the insulation/rubber under the braided brass hoses. You need to figure out what is under there so that whatever lube you use doesn't eat away at it.

The brass braid is probably there for insulation and protection. It is what is under it that holds the important connections.
Be very careful. Anything that is from 1968 and still up and running will not have the safeties built into it like today's equipment would.

 

[IncognitoSF]

Thanks! Kanol has a great collection of products.

Don't think there is a heat issue, hoses are internally cooled by coolant (under 220F) and in forced-air stream which should be well under 200F, however extreme full spectrum light exposure which could add some heat load.

Would love to know the material, but don't want to destroy a hose to find out.

The brass braid is actually current carrying. And yes, there are no fuses, circuit breakers, GFCIs or any other protection in the power circuit. Voltage and current meter with human monitoring system. At some point, may design a controller for this.

Description of the project on http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?348441-AN-TVS-3-project

 

[Doog]

Here is a repair manual on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Searchlight-Set-Infrared-AN-TVS-3-Repair-Parts-/350258019781

 

[Doog]

I would consider trying some boeshield T9 on them and see what happens. Be careful when you turn them on because they generate something like a billion candlepower. Plus you may attract any former VC sappers who sneaked into the US illegally and are hiding out in the Bay area and will have PTSD flashbacks and attack your position. Of course they will only be wielding cooking utensils from whatever Chinese restaurant they are working in...

 

[IncognitoSF]

Originally Posted By: Doog
I would consider trying some boeshield T9 on them and see what happens. Be careful when you turn them on because they generate something like a billion candlepower. Plus you may attract any former VC sappers who sneaked into the US illegally and are hiding out in the Bay area and will have PTSD flashbacks and attack your position. Of course they will only be wielding cooking utensils from whatever Chinese restaurant they are working in...

I have all the military manuals, they focus on replacement (no consideration for cost) so no help for this, or unsticking the frozen bearings.

Pretty spectacular actually. With good focus and clean mirror, beam is quite visible at 12 miles.

Two of the units I have were via the Border Patrol, they got from NASA/USAF, then couldn't even turn them on (400Hz)...

Love the Boeshield, used it on other parts of the same project. Fleetguard (Cummins Filtration) Restore Plus (chelating mild acid) is likely similar.

 

[Tempest]

Silicone spray is the way to go.