Lubegard Heavy Duty Engine Protectant VOA

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Truly? If I have all the very very tricky oil components (see PR), I need at that still tons of adds? Because? You know, "LXE-Technology".
 
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Originally Posted by PimTac
It has been said many many times here that a analysis will not reveal all the components. Same goes for the SDS though the Lubegard SDS does show more than some.

I find it interesting that the Ester is derived from canola oil, hence the Biotech part of the product name.

That's the LXE liquid wax right? I've heard of competitive bicyclists dipping their chains and gears in a heated wax so the chain rides on a film.
 
I think the term "liquid wax" is throwing people off. I'm not an expert but the process to make the Ester May involve producing a wax. As far as I can tell they are not adding wax to the product. It's a Ester derived from wax and in this case it's from rapeseed oil (canola oil).

If I'm wrong I hope a expert will chime in here to correct me.


Apologies for my phone capitalizing certain words.
 
@MolaKule Let's say I want to use Lubegard Bio-Tech in along with Castrol EDGE 0W-40 in my 5.7 HEMI to boost the Moly levels, will it change the ZDDP ratio in the motor oil? I will use it at the recommended rate of 3 oz per quart.

I know that additives shouldn't be used in a fully formulated engine oil. However, my RAM 1500 is a 2016 model year with only 25K miles on it. I'm babying it and I'm trying to take care of the crappy lifters as good as I can so I don't get the HEMI tick any time soon. The lifters use needle bearings, so they are basically tony roller bearings, and I know that Molybdenum can help those, especially if they are of questionable manufacturing quality. Many run Red Line 5W-30 in these engines, however, other than the high moly ppm number of that oil and its PAO base oil, I believe it's overpriced for what it is. Castrol Edge has no Moly in it, and it's got a healthy amount of PAO in its base oil, so it should be a bit more shear resistant than Mobil 1. I am bringing this up because when adding Lubegard Bio-Tech to motor oil the viscosity goes down. I believe Lubegard is something like 0W-16. Will Lubegard interact with the additives in the motor oil or compete with them? Thank you, looking forward to your answer.
 
There is an expensive boutique oil that folks here love, claims to have ester in it. I wonder if just putting in some Lubegard Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant would be similar.
 
There is an expensive boutique oil that folks here love, claims to have ester in it. I wonder if just putting in some Lubegard Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant would be similar.
Nope. If you read in the replies from Pat @ Lubegard, this product is designed to maintain cleanliness, but not remove existing deposits.

Which boutique are you referring to, since HPL is neither truly expensive and actually has Ester in it?
 
Nope. If you read in the replies from Pat @ Lubegard, this product is designed to maintain cleanliness, but not remove existing deposits.

Which boutique are you referring to, since HPL is neither truly expensive and actually has Ester in it?

Yes, I never said they removed deposits but am interested in adding ester to maintain cleanliness. So maybe add it to some Costco oil or even M1 EP which also has AN, or maybe PUP?

As for price--
For me, to do 5qt oil changes...

KS 0W-20 4 x 5qt jugs = $84.80 w/tax, free s/h
LGBT 4 x 15oz = $55.54 w/tax, free s/h
Total for 4, 5qt oil changes = $140.34
~$7.01/qt

HPL 0W-20 gotta get the Premium PCMO no 0W-20 offered in peasant grade
(6 qts and 1gal x 4, -15% discount, + shipping = $316.48 for 22 qts)
~$14.38/qt

M1 EP or PUP at WallyWorld.com 5qt jug = $34.45 w/tax, free s/h
LGBT (1 15oz bottle) = $13.88 w/tax, free s/h
Total for 1, 5qt oil change = $48.33
~$9.67/qt

M1 EP/PUP + LGBT vs HPL is 49% premium
KS + LGBT vs HPL is 105% premium
1.5X to 2X the price isn't "truly expensive" to you?

I created some new acronyms here.
KS = Kirkland Signature
LGBT = LubeGard Bio/Tech
 
Yes, I never said they removed deposits but am interested in adding ester to maintain cleanliness.
Not all esters are the same and you cannot predict the performance of homebrew options.

I think you're better off staying M1 EP without any extra snake oil. At least that is a properly-formulated option with an established (predictable) track record.
 
Holly thread resurection!

There is an expensive boutique oil that folks here love, claims to have ester in it.
If you're referring to RedLine, then no one here truly loves it. It's a curiosity at best. I spent some money on it, and so far my experience with it has been mixed.

I wonder if just putting in some Lubegard Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant would be similar.
I don't have a true understanding of lubricant formulation, and judging by your statement, neither do you. Lubegard BioTech is a good product, however, it performs a minimal function of improving (debatable) on sub-standard lubricants.

Yes, I never said they removed deposits but am interested in adding ester to maintain cleanliness. So maybe add it to some Costco oil or even M1 EP which also has AN, or maybe PUP?
RedLine Oil won't clean your engine either. In fact, it's parent company, Phillips 66, is milking RedLine for all it's worth in brand equity, and then some. This may be a discussion for another topic, however, from where I sit, it looks like RedLine products are being cheapend while their price is going up.

I just ran an OCI of RL 5W-30 in our 2017 Santa Fe (3.3L V6) and in ~6800 miles it consumed over half a quart of oil in an engine that was spotlessly clean and never consumed a drop of oil. Ironically I used 800ml of Quaker State Euro 5W-40 to top it off. They recently updated their SDS documents and from the looks of it, they've reformulated their lubes... to save a buck. I say that because PAO content went dramatically down, and I can only wonder what it was replaced with. It's just not worth buying something that you can't trust, especially when it's $65/gallon.

@High Performance Lubricants has a product simply called "Engine Cleaner." Just add half a quart to each oil change to whatever oil you want to run and it will do what you expect. You can buy it here: https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants/products/engine-cleaner

If you want a top performing lubricant, just buy HPL's lowest cost PCMO and you'll be very happy with the results, guarantied.
 
M1 EP/PUP + LGBT vs HPL is 49% premium
KS + LGBT vs HPL is 105% premium.
1.5X to 2X the price isn't "truly expensive" to you?
It all depends on what your goals are. If you’re just looking to minimize costs and/or are only going to run the HPL for the same mileage as the other ones then just pick an oil that meets your engine’s specs and change it when manufacturer says.

If you’re looking to remove deposits, have no API limits on beneficial additives, and use UOAs to determine how far to extend an oil change before overwhelming the oil, HPL comes into its own if you are able to go 1.5-3x longer per OCI if that’s your goal.

Additives like LG BioTech are always an “after-the-fact” that you honestly have little indication of how it will react in a given oil. HPL is fully formulated to work and provide results from the word “go”
 
I just ran an OCI of RL 5W-30 in our 2017 Santa Fe (3.3L V6) and in ~6800 miles it consumed over half a quart of oil in an engine that was spotlessly clean and never consumed a drop of oil. Ironically I used 800ml of Quaker State Euro 5W-40 to top it off. They recently updated their SDS documents and from the looks of it, they've reformulated their lubes... to save a buck. I say that because PAO content went dramatically down, and I can only wonder what it was replaced with. It's just not worth buying something that you can't trust, especially when it's $65/gallon.
I do not fully agree with your comments, but we can save that discussion for a different thread.

@High Performance Lubricants has a product simply called "Engine Cleaner." Just add half a quart to each oil change to whatever oil you want to run and it will do what you expect. You can buy it here: https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants/products/engine-cleaner

If you want a top performing lubricant, just buy HPL's lowest cost PCMO and you'll be very happy with the results, guarantied.
The Engine Cleaner is a good stepping stone to using their products if you have a unique situation where there is suspicion of heavy buildup, but I personally think most people are better served by just running their oils.
 
I do not fully agree with your comments, but we can save that discussion for a different thread.
I'd love to be wrong about RedLine, so if you can add anything to what I said, please do. I'd hate to see them go the way of RP.

The Engine Cleaner is a good stepping stone to using their products if you have a unique situation where there is suspicion of heavy buildup, but I personally think most people are better served by just running their oils.
Well, while you're 100% right, @JakeBlade is looking to save a buck. That'd be the easiest way to do it. Also, HPL said that half a quart of their engine cleaner can be run with every oil change. Of course, their oils will do a much better job at keeping the engine clean than any kind of mix. Their engine cleaner is meant as an intermediate step before switching to their oil. Like you said, in case you have heavy buildup, if you directly switch to their oils, those deposits will be loosened and they will end up in the oil filter. The process was well thought out by HPL.
 
It all depends on what your goals are. If you’re just looking to minimize costs and/or are only going to run the HPL for the same mileage as the other ones then just pick an oil that meets your engine’s specs and change it when manufacturer says.

The 'manufacturer' in my case says to use Dexos oil and the 'manufacturer' installed an oil life monitor to tell me when to change it.
Sorry if I don't follow your advice. ;) Should I use their parts brand oil too? lol

No I'm trying to better than that... and I won't go more than 7.5K OCI.

Goal Primary: Reduce timing chain guide wear and keep the piston oil control rings clean.
Goal Secondary: Save $ if possible.

Saw the LuberGard has molly, calcium and Aunt Ester and thought maybe I can get away with using that with the Warren Dist. discount oil which also meets the engine specs but at a lower cost.
 
The 'manufacturer' in my case says to use Dexos oil and the 'manufacturer' installed an oil life monitor to tell me when to change it.
Sorry if I don't follow your advice. ;) Should I use their parts brand oil too? lol

No I'm trying to better than that... and I won't go more than 7.5K OCI.

Goal Primary: Reduce timing chain guide wear and keep the piston oil control rings clean.
Goal Secondary: Save $ if possible.

Saw the LuberGard has molly, calcium and ester and thought maybe I can get away with using that with the Warren Dist. discount oil which also meets the engine specs but at a lower cost.
You literally rewrote what I said regarding what your engine oil requirements are and when you should change it… and then proceed to tell me that I gave you bad advice? Huh???

Since I’ll humor what appears to be trolling, your primary and secondary goals are nearly diametrically opposed. The only ways to achieve your primary goal is: Either you buy a better oil (more expensive), or you shorten the OCI (more expensive). Secondary goal gets shot in the face either way.

Go ahead and run your “test” since you’re free to do what you want, but dropping a minimum $15 additive into a $15 oil that already meets your engine’s specs is NOT a way to prolong timing chain life, keep piston rings clean, nor save money. Good news though- you will be 100% successful- in not achieving any of your stated goals.

If you want better results, BUY A BETTER OIL.
 
Goal Primary: Reduce timing chain guide wear and keep the piston oil control rings clean.
Goal Secondary: Save $ if possible.

Saw the LuberGard has molly, calcium and Aunt Ester and thought maybe I can get away with using that with the Warren Dist. discount oil which also meets the engine specs but at a lower cost.
Even within the group of approved oils, some are formulated better than others and do exceed the GM requirements for the various categories. For those goals, at least for an in-warranty vehicle, I would use Mobil 1 EP instead of formulating your own product using additives.
 
Even within the group of approved oils, some are formulated better than others and do exceed the GM requirements for the various categories. For those goals, at least for an in-warranty vehicle, I would use Mobil 1 EP instead of formulating your own product using additives.
Thanks, you got essentially the same thing I was going for. There are always better formulated oils, be it M1, RL, or others. But those oils always cost more than the oil that simply “meets the spec”.

If it were as simple as taking a $15 additive and pouring it into $15 oil and getting the same performance as a $45 oil, somebody would premix the first two and sell it for $40. It doesn’t work that way.
 
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