Does LSPI occur in diesel engines?
Nope. If you read in the replies from Pat @ Lubegard, this product is designed to maintain cleanliness, but not remove existing deposits.There is an expensive boutique oil that folks here love, claims to have ester in it. I wonder if just putting in some Lubegard Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant would be similar.
Nope. If you read in the replies from Pat @ Lubegard, this product is designed to maintain cleanliness, but not remove existing deposits.
Which boutique are you referring to, since HPL is neither truly expensive and actually has Ester in it?
Not all esters are the same and you cannot predict the performance of homebrew options.Yes, I never said they removed deposits but am interested in adding ester to maintain cleanliness.
If you're referring to RedLine, then no one here truly loves it. It's a curiosity at best. I spent some money on it, and so far my experience with it has been mixed.There is an expensive boutique oil that folks here love, claims to have ester in it.
I don't have a true understanding of lubricant formulation, and judging by your statement, neither do you. Lubegard BioTech is a good product, however, it performs a minimal function of improving (debatable) on sub-standard lubricants.I wonder if just putting in some Lubegard Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant would be similar.
RedLine Oil won't clean your engine either. In fact, it's parent company, Phillips 66, is milking RedLine for all it's worth in brand equity, and then some. This may be a discussion for another topic, however, from where I sit, it looks like RedLine products are being cheapend while their price is going up.Yes, I never said they removed deposits but am interested in adding ester to maintain cleanliness. So maybe add it to some Costco oil or even M1 EP which also has AN, or maybe PUP?
It all depends on what your goals are. If you’re just looking to minimize costs and/or are only going to run the HPL for the same mileage as the other ones then just pick an oil that meets your engine’s specs and change it when manufacturer says.M1 EP/PUP + LGBT vs HPL is 49% premium
KS + LGBT vs HPL is 105% premium.
1.5X to 2X the price isn't "truly expensive" to you?
I do not fully agree with your comments, but we can save that discussion for a different thread.I just ran an OCI of RL 5W-30 in our 2017 Santa Fe (3.3L V6) and in ~6800 miles it consumed over half a quart of oil in an engine that was spotlessly clean and never consumed a drop of oil. Ironically I used 800ml of Quaker State Euro 5W-40 to top it off. They recently updated their SDS documents and from the looks of it, they've reformulated their lubes... to save a buck. I say that because PAO content went dramatically down, and I can only wonder what it was replaced with. It's just not worth buying something that you can't trust, especially when it's $65/gallon.
The Engine Cleaner is a good stepping stone to using their products if you have a unique situation where there is suspicion of heavy buildup, but I personally think most people are better served by just running their oils.@High Performance Lubricants has a product simply called "Engine Cleaner." Just add half a quart to each oil change to whatever oil you want to run and it will do what you expect. You can buy it here: https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants/products/engine-cleaner
If you want a top performing lubricant, just buy HPL's lowest cost PCMO and you'll be very happy with the results, guarantied.
I'd love to be wrong about RedLine, so if you can add anything to what I said, please do. I'd hate to see them go the way of RP.I do not fully agree with your comments, but we can save that discussion for a different thread.
Well, while you're 100% right, @JakeBlade is looking to save a buck. That'd be the easiest way to do it. Also, HPL said that half a quart of their engine cleaner can be run with every oil change. Of course, their oils will do a much better job at keeping the engine clean than any kind of mix. Their engine cleaner is meant as an intermediate step before switching to their oil. Like you said, in case you have heavy buildup, if you directly switch to their oils, those deposits will be loosened and they will end up in the oil filter. The process was well thought out by HPL.The Engine Cleaner is a good stepping stone to using their products if you have a unique situation where there is suspicion of heavy buildup, but I personally think most people are better served by just running their oils.
It all depends on what your goals are. If you’re just looking to minimize costs and/or are only going to run the HPL for the same mileage as the other ones then just pick an oil that meets your engine’s specs and change it when manufacturer says.
You literally rewrote what I said regarding what your engine oil requirements are and when you should change it… and then proceed to tell me that I gave you bad advice? Huh???The 'manufacturer' in my case says to use Dexos oil and the 'manufacturer' installed an oil life monitor to tell me when to change it.
Sorry if I don't follow your advice. Should I use their parts brand oil too? lol
No I'm trying to better than that... and I won't go more than 7.5K OCI.
Goal Primary: Reduce timing chain guide wear and keep the piston oil control rings clean.
Goal Secondary: Save $ if possible.
Saw the LuberGard has molly, calcium and ester and thought maybe I can get away with using that with the Warren Dist. discount oil which also meets the engine specs but at a lower cost.
Even within the group of approved oils, some are formulated better than others and do exceed the GM requirements for the various categories. For those goals, at least for an in-warranty vehicle, I would use Mobil 1 EP instead of formulating your own product using additives.Goal Primary: Reduce timing chain guide wear and keep the piston oil control rings clean.
Goal Secondary: Save $ if possible.
Saw the LuberGard has molly, calcium and Aunt Ester and thought maybe I can get away with using that with the Warren Dist. discount oil which also meets the engine specs but at a lower cost.
Thanks, you got essentially the same thing I was going for. There are always better formulated oils, be it M1, RL, or others. But those oils always cost more than the oil that simply “meets the spec”.Even within the group of approved oils, some are formulated better than others and do exceed the GM requirements for the various categories. For those goals, at least for an in-warranty vehicle, I would use Mobil 1 EP instead of formulating your own product using additives.