This is a Gen II LT1 in a 1995 Chevrolet Caprice. Recent intake manifold gasket change. K&N air filter.
Terry
LT1 with M1 10W30
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Patman
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Silicon is still pretty high from the intake leak fix I'll bet (and the K&N!), which probably also hurts your iron. Interesting how your iron is so much higher than my iron on my 3.1k report (mine was 9.5 for my 95 LT1) but your lead is way better (mine was 11)
I've got the leak also, but after Auto-rx it reduced it to the point where I only lose a quart about every 7k, so if it doesn't get worse I won't bother fixing it yet. It's a big job.
I've got the leak also, but after Auto-rx it reduced it to the point where I only lose a quart about every 7k, so if it doesn't get worse I won't bother fixing it yet. It's a big job.
The K&N is on the way out.
The intake wasn't too big a job. Eight hours for the first one and six for the second, but might be a little harder on your F-car being the engine is half under the windshield. If you decide to do it, leave the car sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up well before running. There is a good write-up on one of the F-car sites. If you don't have the URL, Pat, I can dig it up. I can also offer you some advise off the board, if you wish. No sense boring everyone with LT1 minutia.
An Auto RX cycle is on the agenda as well, but the driving season for this car is almost ended for the year. It will be hard to accumulate the miles for the Auto RX through the winter.
Terry
[ August 29, 2003, 11:24 AM: Message edited by: 9c1 ]
The intake wasn't too big a job. Eight hours for the first one and six for the second, but might be a little harder on your F-car being the engine is half under the windshield. If you decide to do it, leave the car sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up well before running. There is a good write-up on one of the F-car sites. If you don't have the URL, Pat, I can dig it up. I can also offer you some advise off the board, if you wish. No sense boring everyone with LT1 minutia.
An Auto RX cycle is on the agenda as well, but the driving season for this car is almost ended for the year. It will be hard to accumulate the miles for the Auto RX through the winter.
Terry
[ August 29, 2003, 11:24 AM: Message edited by: 9c1 ]
Forgot to mention this engine has iron heads, vs the aluminum heads on the f-car (Camaro & Firebird) and y-car (Corvette). I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the high iron levels. Just a thought.
Patman
Staff member
You could be right, the higher iron could come from the iron heads, but then again the material on the heads shouldn't be wearing out either should it?
It's definitely a trickier job to fix the leak on an f-body because of how crowded the engine bay is. I'll probably get a friend of mine to do it, and we'll definitely let it sit for 24 hours before starting it, plus we'll use the Permatex copper RTV also. Another good idea I've heard is to either relocate, or heat wrap the EGR, as this is supposedly the source of why the intake leaks (the heat from the EGR is what deteriorates the RTV on the intake)
PS, I still firmly believe the LT1 likes a much thicker oil than Mobil 1 10w30. At the very least, it needs something on the high end of a 30wt. I would like to see how 0w40 M1 does in an LT1. We did see one report on Vader SS's Impala, but he also had other issues (new oil cooler I believe) which affected his sample.
Where did Vader SS go anyhow? Haven't seen him post in a while.
[ August 29, 2003, 11:42 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]
It's definitely a trickier job to fix the leak on an f-body because of how crowded the engine bay is. I'll probably get a friend of mine to do it, and we'll definitely let it sit for 24 hours before starting it, plus we'll use the Permatex copper RTV also. Another good idea I've heard is to either relocate, or heat wrap the EGR, as this is supposedly the source of why the intake leaks (the heat from the EGR is what deteriorates the RTV on the intake)
PS, I still firmly believe the LT1 likes a much thicker oil than Mobil 1 10w30. At the very least, it needs something on the high end of a 30wt. I would like to see how 0w40 M1 does in an LT1. We did see one report on Vader SS's Impala, but he also had other issues (new oil cooler I believe) which affected his sample.
Where did Vader SS go anyhow? Haven't seen him post in a while.
[ August 29, 2003, 11:42 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]
Yep, Pat, the egr tube is the bad boy, plus an RTV that had little high temp properties. I have a number of heat wraps, but was unable to instal any of them. The area is just too tight for my big hands.
LT1 intake repair link
I cleaned the throttle body and replaced injector o-rings while I was there. I also found the PCV hose deteriorated, so took care of that at the same time. By-passed the coolant to the throttle body also. I like to bundle the jobs.
My preference for the RTV is the GM recommended product, but I can't find the part number. I'll get it and post later. Absolutely must have the mating surfaces operating room clean and oil free. I use acetone. Also don't forget the intake manifold bolts which go through to the coolant passages OR into the lifter valley area MUST have sealant applied prior to installation. The bolts and bolt holes MUST be scrupulously clean and free from any oil prior to sealant application and bolt installation. I recommend using Lock-Tite or Permatex Pipe Thread Sealer with Teflon.
Terry
LT1 intake repair link
I cleaned the throttle body and replaced injector o-rings while I was there. I also found the PCV hose deteriorated, so took care of that at the same time. By-passed the coolant to the throttle body also. I like to bundle the jobs.
My preference for the RTV is the GM recommended product, but I can't find the part number. I'll get it and post later. Absolutely must have the mating surfaces operating room clean and oil free. I use acetone. Also don't forget the intake manifold bolts which go through to the coolant passages OR into the lifter valley area MUST have sealant applied prior to installation. The bolts and bolt holes MUST be scrupulously clean and free from any oil prior to sealant application and bolt installation. I recommend using Lock-Tite or Permatex Pipe Thread Sealer with Teflon.
Terry
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