LT1 Burns 1 qt Every 2k Miles

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Originally Posted By: MarcZ
I have a 1994 Camaro Z28 that was rebuilt 25k miles ago. It is now a 357 cubic inch motor with a cam slightly bigger than stock, ported heads, forged pistons, 10.5:1 compression ratio. Shorty Headers and a 3-inch catback top it off. It is my daily driver and I drive it hard most of the time when there's no traffic, but not at high speeds, mostly acceleration. 75-80% highway driving. Around 13k miles ago I had a blown head gasket, which I did all the work myself except machining of the heads. I had some trouble adjusting the valves but finally got it. It may be worth noting that when I tore the top end apart for the head gasket changes (I did both sides) almost all of the intake manifold bolts were loose and taken off by my fingers and incorrect bolts were used with some sort of bolt spacers, and the A.I.R pump was not hooked up correctly. Even after I fixed everything I had a great deal of trouble passing smog. But I did not notice unusual oil consumption at this time.

Not until the last 2-3 oil changes have I noticed the oil consumption. The first time I was 1k miles from my usual 3k oil change and my low oil light came on. I pulled over at a gas station and oil was only at the very bottom of the stick, it did not go up to any of the holes. Ever since then I have been watching it and it seems to about 1 qt every 2k miles. I have checked for leaks several times and see none. Maybe that's not too bad, but my dad and I spent a lot of money on this car and I don't see why it should be doing this. The valve train is a bit noisy but not too bad. I run stock rockers, but they are not all that much more quiet than the 1.6 roller tip rockers I ran for a short time but had issues with. I usually run synthetic 5w30, a few times I've been running Valvoline durablend because it's been on sale, but have noticed no difference in consumption. I usually use K&N or Mobil 1 oil filters, but have thought about giving wix a try. I thought I remembered one of my build managers at the shop that built my motor say to think about running a 15w oil but couldn't remember when it came time for the real oil after break in. Plus it seemed thick for my mildly built motor. Sorry, that was a little longer than I thought it was going to be, I've read this forum here and there and honestly, the more I read, the more confused and uncertain I get, what grade oil do you recommend in my situation?
Pick up the phone and call the motor builder and ask him what weight oil to run. The harder you drive it:The more it uses.
 
every 25000 miles chevy's need valve jobs??? All we do are engines here for over 20 years and we do a lot of them and i have never had to do a valve job on a chevy v8 at 25,000 miles
 
I did some WOT runs today to help seat the rings, was a little disappointed, I thought this car had more, but maybe that's the nature of gearing (3.23) and automatics.
 
Suggest German Castrol 0w30, order Autozone online to store. Dont let the 0w scare you. A 0w30 5w30 15w30 etc is never never thinner than 30 grade. Just does not "thicken" as much at low temps but all are still over 30 grade at low temps.

GC is very high into the 30 grade range and stays there.

Have looked at many many used oil analysis, Royal Purple shears out of grade and gets thinner most every time going down into a 20 grade.

Might also want to try Valvoline "Maxlife" full synthetic

Read just some of this link, it is one of the most valuable reads I have done in regards to oil. Gets pretty deep after about the first 25% of the article but the first 25-50% is invaluable.

regards

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
 
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i'd be mad at the builder, not using loctite or whatnot on the major engine fasteners. makes you wonder about the bore and piston/ring selection too. 357 is an interesting #, usually its 355 w/ stock crank but i don't imagine you're using the stock crank. why not 383?

also guys are spinning built LT1s like that to 6500+
 
25k of high revs,hard usage creates valve guide wear and oil usage.Thats a lot of miles to be running a engine hard.What would you expect.Big cam,high revs,wide open a lot.Yea it needs going through.Maybe valve guide material is better now then it was 20 odd years back but I found lots of valve guide clearance on lots of Chevy v8s that had been built and run hard.Whats on the plugs?
 
Originally Posted By: [RT
ProjUltraZ]i'd be mad at the builder, not using loctite or whatnot on the major engine fasteners. makes you wonder about the bore and piston/ring selection too. 357 is an interesting #, usually its 355 w/ stock crank but i don't imagine you're using the stock crank. why not 383?

also guys are spinning built LT1s like that to 6500+


I spin my stroker small block a LOT farther than that!
 
I think your thermostat is 185. I had a 97Z and it had a rear main seal leak around 50k miles.

Get a 3.73 gear. You'll be shifting alot more, wearing on the transmission though.

My stock 350ci didnt have much power above 4k. I would ring it out, but there just wasnt much there. Its a torque monster though.
 
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