LT1 Burns 1 qt Every 2k Miles

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I have a 1994 Camaro Z28 that was rebuilt 25k miles ago. It is now a 357 cubic inch motor with a cam slightly bigger than stock, ported heads, forged pistons, 10.5:1 compression ratio. Shorty Headers and a 3-inch catback top it off. It is my daily driver and I drive it hard most of the time when there's no traffic, but not at high speeds, mostly acceleration. 75-80% highway driving. Around 13k miles ago I had a blown head gasket, which I did all the work myself except machining of the heads. I had some trouble adjusting the valves but finally got it. It may be worth noting that when I tore the top end apart for the head gasket changes (I did both sides) almost all of the intake manifold bolts were loose and taken off by my fingers and incorrect bolts were used with some sort of bolt spacers, and the A.I.R pump was not hooked up correctly. Even after I fixed everything I had a great deal of trouble passing smog. But I did not notice unusual oil consumption at this time.

Not until the last 2-3 oil changes have I noticed the oil consumption. The first time I was 1k miles from my usual 3k oil change and my low oil light came on. I pulled over at a gas station and oil was only at the very bottom of the stick, it did not go up to any of the holes. Ever since then I have been watching it and it seems to about 1 qt every 2k miles. I have checked for leaks several times and see none. Maybe that's not too bad, but my dad and I spent a lot of money on this car and I don't see why it should be doing this. The valve train is a bit noisy but not too bad. I run stock rockers, but they are not all that much more quiet than the 1.6 roller tip rockers I ran for a short time but had issues with. I usually run synthetic 5w-30, a few times I've been running Valvoline durablend because it's been on sale, but have noticed no difference in consumption. I usually use K&N or M1 oil filters, but have thought about giving wix a try. I thought I remembered one of my build managers at the shop that built my motor say to think about running a 15w oil but couldn't remember when it came time for the real oil after break in. Plus it seemed thick for my mildly built motor. Sorry, that was a little longer than I thought it was going to be, I've read this forum here and there and honestly, the more I read, the more confused and uncertain I get, what grade oil do you recommend in my situation?
 
how do you drive this engine do you red line it all the time ?? do short trips all the time ?? what temperature are you driving in??
 
No, I very rarely see the redline, Normal driving is 1500-3300 rpms, mostly under 3000. When I'm really getting on it is going 4500 rpm, redline is about 5.7, I usually just brush past 3.5 when I'm having fun, probably only seen the redline 6 times. Most of the driving is going about 20 miles on the highway to work, grabbing lunch, then 20 miles back home. Not many short trips, but not very long either. I drive it san diego, California, so mostly warmer weather.
 
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For a car of that age it wouldn't be too crazy especially on a synthetic oil, but on a rebuilt engine it should leak less than that.

You might be using too thin of an oil?
 
Miles per year, guessing from my odometer in of the rebuild in march 2008, maybe 12,000 miles a year.

Based on my engine's modification from factory, which isn't very much, should I step up the oil thickness, like 10w-40 syn. Or try a thicker 5w-30? That's why I'm here, I don't know the difference really or if 10w-30 is thick enough or not, or if I should be running synthetic at all. I used to run RP at first, then Mobil 1, then changed around a bit, currently valvoline durablend is in the car now, I am changing it in 900 miles. german 0w-30 isn't stocked much and I don't think my local stores have amsoil that everyone recommends, but I can check.
 
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My
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worth.

May I suggest a close reading of the spark plugs. If all of the plugs have equal or near equal deposits, one might assume that there are no broken rings.

If that is the case my first assumption is probably true.
Forged pistons = looser clearances = more oil consumption.
I know this from experience...really. I have experienced 1 Qt consumption to 1200 miles with a "built" forged motor.
A check of the PCV system would be in order also.
How much blow-by does it have? A little blow-by is OK.
If it runs as intended 1 Qt to 2K is not a problem IMHO.

Good luck Sir.

Rickey.
 
Originally Posted By: Rickey
I almost forgot:

Rotella T6 5W40
That's what I would be running in an engine such as this.


+1, because that's my motto for everything.
 
5w30 will be ok in that motor stick with a good dino if you like the valvoline than go for it, at the second dino oci your oil consumption may be better
 
It may be that it was broken in too gently and the rings never seated well. Try getting it good and hot, and taking it for a HARD drive (lots of WOT and high RPM). That may help a little.
 
^^lol really? yea, i never took it over 3k during break in, was real gentle, thats what the builder said, they didn't believe in the hard break in and neither did I but what do I know? This car doesn't really get very hot, runs amazingly cool, so I guess you just mean let it get to normal operating temp?

Thanks all for the replies. Dino means non synthetic, correct? I'll try the rotella for a bit if I can find it, though I don't recall seeing that brand on the shelves. I'll check a plug, I've already done the pcv system, replaced a few hoses that had cracks in the turns and elbows.
 
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Rotella is not a brand, the correct name should be Shell Rotella. Shell Rotella T6 5W40 is a very good oil for a reasonable price at Walmart, you should try it.
 
As far as break in, gentle is good at first, but once it's got some mileage on it, a bit of WOT or near WOT helps seat the rings. Just don't let it all the way up to redline (no more than 70% of redline or so) until it's broken in more.

As far as temp, yeah I meant normal operating temp. Just let it stay there for a bit to warm the oil before getting on it. Out of curiosity, what temps does it run?
 
I'll keep you updated on that, yes, but I think I'll try shell rotella first, assuming it is a synthetic.

Normal temps are I'm guessing around 180-210* (starts at 160 at the bottom, 260 is in the red), it usually stays just below the first line 1/4 of the way up. Even at long drivethrus it rarely gets to the half way mark. All temp sensors are new since the rebuild, I put them in myself.
 
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Originally Posted By: MarcZ
I'll keep you updated on that, yes, but I think I'll try shell rotella first, assuming it is a synthetic.


Depends what your definition of synthetic is.
 
2K isnt all that bad in that engine..
Heck, even 1qrt per 1K is considered OK for older v8 engines.

Forged pistons should be "looser" in the holes.
Your rings may not be seated fully.
They may have done a poor hone job..or the incorrect type for the style of rings used.
They may have set the ring gap big to leave room for supercharging.
 
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